4.8 80mm ls9 cam. no power

[dylanplace]

so i have a 4.8 with an 80mm turbo, 80lb dekas, walbro 400, 3bar map. all the basic sensors. its in a mud truck and i ran it all last season. the tune wasnt perfect but it ran. i knew it was to rich and was going through spark plugs ever other event. but stupid me put a cam in it at the end of the season before i even got my tune right with the stock cam . so now it has an ls9 cam in it and i lost all my power and it ruins a set of plugs in roughly 5 minutes. i ordered new injectors because i have 3 that hangover and put a bunch of gas in my lower end. so basically i was looking for some help on getting my tune right so i can use the damn thing. any help would be awsome
one stack dicked over.hpt

[5FDP]

A few things, MAF dtc's for speed density should be set to fail on first error. Leave the SES boxes unchecked for no DTC light.

Are you running a IAT sensor still?

The boost enrichment tables scares me, you know how that works right? It's the same as the Eq ratio, currently you have it set to 0.60, so that's 14.63/0.60 = 24 AFR. Lucky for you the computer would use the "richer" of the two and uses the EQ ratio which is 1.2. So that's still only 12.23 AFR under boost commaned, way too lean. You should try putting 1.275 in the boost enrichment so you know you have fuel there.

If it's as rich as you say it is, then that was the only thing saving this motor in my eyes.

Past that the Ve table is still pretty rough, you need to start there as that is the main fueling table you need to address.

[dylanplace]

A few things, MAF dtc's for speed density should be set to fail on first error. Leave the SES boxes unchecked for no DTC light.

Are you running a IAT sensor still?

The boost enrichment tables scares me, you know how that works right? It's the same as the Eq ratio, currently you have it set to 0.60, so that's 14.63/0.60 = 24 AFR. Lucky for you the computer would use the "richer" of the two and uses the EQ ratio which is 1.2. So that's still only 12.23 AFR under boost commaned, way too lean. You should try putting 1.275 in the boost enrichment so you know you have fuel there.

If it's as rich as you say it is, then that was the only thing saving this motor in my eyes.

Past that the Ve table is still pretty rough, you need to start there as that is the main fueling table you need to address.

im running an iat in the intake off of a 90s camero. even with no maf i still want to throw codes? thank you i am still learning as i go here

[dylanplace]

i was also wondering about how my timing would change with that cam. i figured my ve would

[dylanplace]

any other imput? im new at this still

[5FDP]

It's not that you need it to throw codes, it's that when it commanding speed density there is a way the DTC's should be set up. You are requesting that it doesn't use the MAF sensor, so you'd zero out the MAF fail high hz and set the codes to fail on first error, so it see's the fail high hz is 0hz and thus trips SD right away. You can just leave it so the SES box is unchecked.

Overal timing could change some out of boost but in boost the cam isn't just going to give you more timing to play with. You should still play it safe with 10-14 degrees of timing in boost.

It's going to be rather hard to get good tuning data if this is in a mud truck and you can't drive it on the open road for a while. But maybe you can, that would be the best way to get the tune dialed in.

[dylanplace]

i see what you mean now. the truck is still road legal. i drive it to close by events. i could get datalogs if i could get it to stop wrecking plugs. i played with real time tuning and its still wicked rich. im waiting for a new wideband at the moment as it stopped reading today and was covered in soot

[5FDP]

Without a log I can't comment further.

Too hard to say but forsure you need to figure out why it's running so rich. If the commanded AFR at idle is not 14's you may have some larger issue's, or if you can't lean the fuel mixture out at idle to atleast let you start logging.

[boostbuick]

make shure u add the injector specs to the adder table if u have done so already but I have a question why is all you timing set to 20 that's way too mutch advance in drive and in park if ure boosted don't u want to retard it to make shure u don't blow out the spark or melt sparkplugs also make shure your cam is set up for a boosted application if u have too mutch overlap in the cam it will cause blow by to fix this u can increase boost but watch knock , what I mean by blow by is both valves will be open and the air flow instead of in the cylinder it will blow it right out the exsaust valve. but sound like u have too mutch advance a bit hot and melting plugs. or did u say fouling them out I'm kinda lost with what u said. with too mutch fuel it will foul them out and cause a flood condition that will foul out the plugs and be running like poop lol ttyl boosbuick

[dylanplace]

not melting plugs just flooding bad. i believe i have the injectors right. i will double check thought as i did all this last year before i got it back together. i can take some log files soon and will post them up

[5FDP]

make shure u add the injector specs to the adder table if u have done so already but I have a question why is all you timing set to 20 that's way too mutch advance in drive and in park if ure boosted don't u want to retard it to make shure u don't blow out the spark or melt sparkplugs also make shure your cam is set up for a boosted application if u have too mutch overlap in the cam it will cause blow by to fix this u can increase boost but watch knock , what I mean by blow by is both valves will be open and the air flow instead of in the cylinder it will blow it right out the exsaust valve. but sound like u have too mutch advance a bit hot and melting plugs. or did u say fouling them out I'm kinda lost with what u said. with too mutch fuel it will foul them out and cause a flood condition that will foul out the plugs and be running like poop lol ttyl boosbuick

That's just his base spark at idle that is set to 20 degrees of timing, that is just fine. It's not low enough to make the headers glow or anything.

Overall timing in the high/low octane tables for driving is fine up to the point. Anywhere out of boost the numbers look fine, all these LS trucks can run 20-40 degrees of timing just driving around. It would be worthwhile to lower the timing past .80 to .84 cylinder airmass as you start getting into boost there and you will want lower timing. He has the bottom row at 14 degrees already, so that may be okay but you'll want to watch for knock. It may need to be lower around 12 like I've said before to keep the engine happy.

I also see that you disabled closed loop functions but the open loop fuel table is still kind of all over the place like it is stock. If you aren't going to run closed loop you really need that open loop table to command 1.00 aka stoich once the temps are high enough. Once it's at 140F you should start making it run at stoich, make it slope into that smoothly.

[boostbuick]

but the base spark at idle goes the full map to the full range of rpm but I'm still learning a bit too sorry just tryin to help mee to really learn what to look for on maps and what to change to make them better or worse is my problem maby one day I like to chat with yah 5FDP and learn a bit from u, if ud lke to contact me just pm me I'm 33 and not a stranger to the car industry worked on lots of cars for about 20 odd years and tuning with hp tuners is a bit new just the fuel tables and spark I don't understand it other then add a number and take some away but that's about it if that's all u need to do then how can it be this easy /////??????

[rbooth]

By no means am I questioning your mechanical ablility but are you positive your cam isnt a tooth off? I have seen people around my area make that mistake and it will kill power big time. Just looked over the tune and I think your injector data could be better although that wont solve your power loss but it will make your cold starts, warm starts, idle, and higher vacuum areas more accurate. PM me if your interested in trying different injector data and I would take the time to double check that cam timing.

[dylanplace]

im going to get to play with the truck some more tomorrow so im going to see what i can figure out. i am a mechanic for a living but im not scared to pull the cover to double check considering it is the main thing that changed since the power loss. other than the time it sat around. thank you for all your input and if anyone sees anything else. i would like to try some different data. i know mines all pretty rough

[dylanplace]

well i checked my timing and it was good so i put it back together to back it outside and gave it a little and snaped 1 connecting rod and blew 1 piston apart which destroyed 2 valves and the heads... so that was good. so now i have to figure out if i want to put and lq9 i have in it or i have another 4.8