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Thread: Need major help - personal vehicle - big cam, no coolant temp, won't idle well...

  1. #1
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    Need major help - personal vehicle - big cam, no coolant temp, won't idle well...

    Ok, so I bought a truck from a friend of mine, Robert...I did the whole LS swap on it and put in a LQ4 with a high lift cam similar to the big mutha thumpr - 600 lift. Also I put the GTP injectors in the truck for a better flow to fuel this thing, the MAF meter is: 25168491. The dynojet wb2 that I got with my hp pro isn't working no where near correctly. If someone could possibly look at the data logged and possibly assist in guiding me to the right direction then I'd be extremely grateful! Thanks.

    98 Chevy SD RTT - 1.hpt
    98 chevy 11232016-1830.hpl


  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Just a heads up, it's not a good idea to disable all DTC codes, how in the hell are you ever going to know if you actually have a mechanical or electrical problem. You'll be pulling your hair out because you've set so many important DTC's to never show an error.


    You have several problems looking at this data log.

    1. Coolant temp is pegged at negative 38 degrees, you must fix that. (You would have known this if you didn't disable all your DTC codes)

    2. O2 sensor do not read, they barely move from 300 and 400mv.
    3. Your wideband gauge doesn't work.
    4. Commanded AFR starts low then goes crazy lean on you.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  3. #3
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    5FDP,

    Thank you for your help here.
    1. I knew my coolant temp was pegged out, not exactly sure as to why it is though... I put a new sensor in when I put the motor back together. I have also ensured that the sensor is connected to blue pins 74 and 80. Not sure still as to why it is pegged in that direction; however, I will re-trace the lines and possibly run them straight outside of the wire loom in order to make sure that they are not grounded or shorted.
    2. I installed the oval O2 sensor, it is the oval connector, I had to splice in the new connector. I might go pick up a new one for the 2006 6.0 to put in it's place.
    3. The wideband worked for different times during the logging, but it never consistently ran accurately. I just hooked it up today and threw some junk at it to make it start.
    4. I understand that the AFR starts low then goes crazy on my; however, when I commanded it to the 22/1 ratio is when it actually idled and quit burning my eyes from running too rich.

    So, I appreciate the various problem scenarios, allow me to elaborate... The following isn't working, oil pressure, coolant temp, MAF (intermittently), O2 sensors, A/C system, cooling fans (obviously due to temp), not idling without leaning out the AFR commanded state....

    I need to know how do I input the Pontiac GTP injectors data into HP Tuners to ensure that the engine will output the correct information and quit running so rich??? MAF frequency chart is incorrect, the original 'tune' that was in the ECM was not for this particular combination. The large camshaft is making is difficult to know whether it is attempting to idle correctly or if it isn't setup correct. I also would like to know if I should get a different MAP sensor or is the one I have adequate?

    Thank you again for your assistance!

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    MAP sensor is fine, the regular stock 1 bar map will work just fine.

    MAF sensor should be okay too, all 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0's run the same MAF sensor from those years. I ebay'd the part number it comes up as the regular looking LQ4 style MAF sensor. So that isn't off to start with, it's just off because of the change in camshaft. Same with the VE table, will needs lots of adjustment for sure. Don't forget that idling tuning is wanted once the little things are worked out. Too much idle airflow or too little can cause idle problems and fueling issues.

    Figure out the flow rate of those injectors and put that information into the tune.

    The main reason for it running rich is because it thinks the coolant temp is -38, it's just going to keep dumping fuel into the engine. Also if you run no cats, it's always going to burn the eyes some.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  5. #5
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    Coolant temp showing -38 degrees is likely a wiring issue. That is the number the P01 PCM generates when the sensor is disconnected or wiring is shorted.
    I build stuff...

  6. #6
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    You can look up the the same model year vehicle as what the injectors came out of in the tune repository. Download a stock tune and then copy and paste the injector data into your tune. That will ensure you have the correct injector data. Hope this helps.

  7. #7
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    Ok, so I have adjusted a few items and have repaired the coolant temp. This log file is one that I did with some changes for the injectors. The injectors that I have installed are the Bosch 28851072915. The AFR gauge min/max 5 volt reference wasn't connected adequately. Anyways, could someone please assist now that I have the coolant temp sensor working? Also, I purchased a new O2 sensor, does this one have the correct voltage readings or is it still not working correctly? Thanks!

  8. #8
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    You didn't attach the log to your post.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.