Cammed 6.1 with knock continuously appearing each time

[A.H.Y]

I am trying to tune a 2010 chrysler with mods:
Intake, heads, catback, ported heads, custom cam and NGK iridium spark plugs (TR6)
I posted a thread about this and some other issues, but everything cleared except for this one.

I am having too much of knock retard (st knock) varying from 3 up to 7 at WOT or even PT with heavy push to the peddle
Here is the log: log1
WOT started at time: 09:20
log1.hpl

I tried to enrich the fuel and take out up to 6 degree of WOT base timing, did a log and surprisingly knock still there!! it keep taking 5-7 degree of timing again even after I took great deal of timing already!!
See log2:
log2.hpl

Tune file:
tune2.hpt

Could this be false knock!?
I am stuck and don't know what to do!!?

NOTE: only happen when gear at D, at P/N I have zero knock all rpm range

Any help will be appreciated,

thank you,

[06300CSRT8]

Any idea what octane gas is in the tank? You should log your knock sensor voltages.

You are still lean, and have a very large EQ ratio variance (commanding 10.8 AFR and seeing 12.6-12.7). What injectors are in this? Stock pump? If you can get it a bit richer and see the knock lessen, that prob has a lot to do with it. If you are commanding richer and its not going richer, then you prob are out of fuel somehow.

[06300CSRT8]

I also don't think setting the Throttle Spark and Throttle Spark Knock to zero is a great idea. I would put them back to stock and then cut them in half, not zero though, this is a lot of the PT ST Knock you are seeing.

[A.H.Y]

Any idea what octane gas is in the tank? You should log your knock sensor voltages.

You are still lean, and have a very large EQ ratio variance (commanding 10.8 AFR and seeing 12.6-12.7). What injectors are in this? Stock pump? If you can get it a bit richer and see the knock lessen, that prob has a lot to do with it. If you are commanding richer and its not going richer, then you prob are out of fuel somehow.

the fuel we are using is 91 octane, stock injectors (cleand and tested 100% fine) and stock pump (because of seeing lean AFR I replace the fuel pump with a new one but unfortunately we get the same result as attached in the thread)
now I am suspecting bad or very sensitive knock sensors but have no codes, guessing the lean situation caused by this high knock retards somehow!!
I will try to log knock sensor voltages and see what is going on there, maybe one is more sensitive than it should be!

[A.H.Y]

I also don't think setting the Throttle Spark and Throttle Spark Knock to zero is a great idea. I would put them back to stock and then cut them in half, not zero though, this is a lot of the PT ST Knock you are seeing.

I did that and other things to eliminate any sources of knock here or there and know where retard is coming from? it seems to be from the knock sensors
I also suspect flywheel crack, bend pushrods .... etc, however the engine sounds normal to me!!

Thanx for the reply 06300CSRT8

[Abdulaziz_pe]

are the heads stock ? or milled ?

are the pistons stock ? or overbore ?

the concern above to ensure that the engine is on stock compression ratio

[RevHard]

Encountered the same problem a few months ago .. false knk becuase ( knk sensor issue )

[A.H.Y]

are the heads stock ? or milled ?

are the pistons stock ? or overbore ?

the concern above to ensure that the engine is on stock compression ratio

Heads are ported with valves
pistons and button engine are stock

Encountered the same problem a few months ago .. false knk becuase ( knk sensor issue )

I thought it was my issue, but I don't know!!

I did a log for knock sensors volt.

knock sensors.hpl

I don't see relation between knock retards and knock sensors volt!! However, I took some WOT timing (5 degrees for higher rpm' and less for lower rpm's)
and here's what I'm getting:

knock sensors2.hpl

[RevHard]

Heads are ported with valves
pistons and button engine are stock



I thought it was my issue, but I don't know!!

I did a log for knock sensors volt.

knock sensors.hpl

I don't see relation between knock retards and knock sensors volt!! However, I took some WOT timing (5 degrees for higher rpm' and less for lower rpm's)
and here's what I'm getting:

knock sensors2.hpl

Almost mechanical problem and not in the tune

try to check everything include your knk sensor ( even when the knk sensor volt normal ) that happen for me before

Believe me,

do not drive your car or your piston fail and damge

[GFB Performance]

Something that's often overlooked is the fuel filter. It's in the passenger side of the tank and requires buying the whole assembly which is approx $150. Its a simple cartridge filter and you may be able to source it separate but I just find it easier to buy the whole assembly from Mopar. You wouldn't believe how filthy they get and they will absolutely restrict flow. I've seen grass clippings and everything else stuck to them. Sounds like you have false knock and it wouldn't hurt to double check the torque on the KS bolts and make sure they're 15 ft lbs and no more. You'd could also put some torco or race fuel in it and see if knock goes away to verify

[A.H.Y]

Almost mechanical problem and not in the tune

try to check everything include your knk sensor ( even when the knk sensor volt normal ) that happen for me before

Believe me,

do not drive your car or your piston fail and damge

not sure about faulty knk sensors! even if they are, it's hard to get 2 faulty sensors at the same time!!
thanx anyway, I will keep that in mind

[A.H.Y]

Something that's often overlooked is the fuel filter. It's in the passenger side of the tank and requires buying the whole assembly which is approx $150. Its a simple cartridge filter and you may be able to source it separate but I just find it easier to buy the whole assembly from Mopar. You wouldn't believe how filthy they get and they will absolutely restrict flow. I've seen grass clippings and everything else stuck to them. Sounds like you have false knock and it wouldn't hurt to double check the torque on the KS bolts and make sure they're 15 ft lbs and no more. You'd could also put some torco or race fuel in it and see if knock goes away to verify

I alreay opened up the auxiliary fuel pump (filter) located in the passenger side of the tank as you mentioned. It took me alot of time and freinds help to open safely but I opened it and clean the filter inside. It was very dirty, I put the whole thing back and did a log but the problem still there!

[06300CSRT8]

Get a fuel pressure gauge hooked into this thing and determine once and for all if you have a mechanical fuel supply issue. Guessing is no longer an option. Now that you have disassembled and reassembled that passenger side module I am concerned you pinched the tiny oring at the regulator or didn't seat it right and are blowing off pressure.

[The Speed FoX]

I am trying to tune a 2010 chrysler with mods:
Intake, heads, catback, ported heads, custom cam and NGK iridium spark plugs (TR6)
I posted a thread about this and some other issues, but everything cleared except for this one.

I am having too much of knock retard (st knock) varying from 3 up to 7 at WOT or even PT with heavy push to the peddle
Here is the log: log1
WOT started at time: 09:20
log1.hpl

I tried to enrich the fuel and take out up to 6 degree of WOT base timing, did a log and surprisingly knock still there!! it keep taking 5-7 degree of timing again even after I took great deal of timing already!!
See log2:
log2.hpl

Tune file:
tune2.hpt

Could this be false knock!?
I am stuck and don't know what to do!!?

NOTE: only happen when gear at D, at P/N I have zero knock all rpm range

Any help will be appreciated,

thank you,

Hi,
I am having the same problem with a 2015 challenger 5.7L with 6.4 Cam swap, the knock occurs at WOT starting from 4500 RPM to red line! and i can't find why it's doing that!
the car is still new, so i don't think it's a fuel problem! i ran it rich at 11.2 AFR and the knock is still there!
i did hundreds of WOT runs, with the knock happening all the time! and the engine DID NOT break at all
if anyone have an idea, i am all ears.

Thank you.

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

mopar in general are sensitive on their knock system.

also if you start removing things such as throttle rate spark, it will knock especially on the newer models.

[A.H.Y]

Get a fuel pressure gauge hooked into this thing and determine once and for all if you have a mechanical fuel supply issue. Guessing is no longer an option. Now that you have disassembled and reassembled that passenger side module I am concerned you pinched the tiny oring at the regulator or didn't seat it right and are blowing off pressure.

Fuel pressure gauge hooked up, fuel system seems to be fine, we got 60 Bar
Don't worry, the O ring of the passenger side module is fine, everything is good

Hi,
I am having the same problem with a 2015 challenger 5.7L with 6.4 Cam swap, the knock occurs at WOT starting from 4500 RPM to red line! and i can't find why it's doing that!
the car is still new, so i don't think it's a fuel problem! i ran it rich at 11.2 AFR and the knock is still there!
i did hundreds of WOT runs, with the knock happening all the time! and the engine DID NOT break at all
if anyone have an idea, i am all ears.

Thank you.

I am guessing you are going too rich, 11.8 - 12.2 is good enough

Hope you can fix your problem soon

[Abdulaziz_pe]

how is yours ?