Howdy everyone, first time posting here. I have an LS2 swapped 300zx i just "finished" up. This is my first adventure in self tuning. I am very optimistic and am doing tons of research. Have not set up anything yet, but just playing around and taking baby steps. Set up the wideband today after work and logged my idle to just begin getting familiar with the interface. Wideband idle test.hpl
Looks like the wideband is there, but something is off still. Only reads 10.20 the whole time.
For starters, get used to how things work like you said and play around. Tune wise should be simple for settings it up, disable codes that no longer mean anything, like EGR, EVAP, rear o2 sensors and that stuff. Change injector information if you swapped those. Log file says it's from a 2002 chevy 2500 truck, so if the injectors aren't those then you'll have to get that stuff straight.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
I believe the channel reading 10.2 was my first failed attempt which i did not delete. I think it's working properly now. It's the port 1, aem 30-4100 i believe. Should be reading on the chart vs. time too.
Luckily all of the things you mentioned were taken care of when i purchased the PCM. I will be researching and double checking all of those things as well. Crossing my T's and dotting my i's.
I'm looking now into adding all appropriate channels so i can set up required graphs for however i proceed.
Are you using a cigarette adapter to power your WB.. Seems like (and you can take this from personal experience) the WB voltage must be dropping below 12v and not reading. This can be a problem when using Cig adapters. There is enough voltage in the adapter circuit to run the display, but not actually power the WB so it will perform as designed. May have to tap into a LARGER gauge harness, or run connections to the battery directly, and a ground.
Sometimes I stick an ice cream cone to my forehead and pretend I'm a Unicorn...!
I'm not using a cigarette lighter tap, but a very similar "small wire". The 300zx has a small digital clock which i have removed, but the wires remain. These wires are quite small. I planned to run a more robust power supply later, but i believe i will do that first and foremost.Originally Posted by Jggregory99
Would this possibly cause the "jumpy" readings.
Jumpy? Maybe... More likely the WB will reset itself and start up again or not at all until you remove power completely. When I had the problem on my 06 Silverado, it would run fine for twenty minutes logging my EQ then all of a sudden I would see my AFR go from say 14.08 to 10.32 and flat line there until I unplugged it and plugged it back in... Then, after I plugged it in again, it would start reading 14.08 or whatever.... Then boom...10.32...unplug, reset...14.08... boom 10.32 etc... I ended up running a higher gauge wire to my Stereo harness hot (16ga) and a ground to the chassis under the dash and installed a designated power adapter... Haven't had a problem since.... Seems to be a GM only issue, which uses like 18-20ga for the power adapters as they only draw like 2 amps for a short period, where as the WB unit runs constant amperage as well as the o2 sensor needing constant power for the heat element. Also I have never heard of this happening on a Ford or Chrystler/Dodge. And it seems to be more predominant in Gen III's and IV's. Don't have this problem in my GenV Camaro. Don't know about the wiring capabilities/ schematics of the 300zx though... if it is as small as the GM, that could be your issue.
Last edited by Jggregory99; 10-27-2016 at 08:23 PM.
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