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Thread: 01 Camaro 408 Finish Line Transmission Stage 5 4l60e 3600 stall Yank - Advice on Tune

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    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    01 Camaro 408 Finish Line Transmission Stage 5 4l60e 3600 stall Yank - Advice on Tune

    Here's my current tune and would like if anyone can or would offer any advice on anything they might see wrong. The car is currently getting the transmission fixed due to a sprag failure. Really wanting to make sure transmission tune is solid.

    Thanks!!!080716-1315.hpt

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    Your normal 1-2 part throttle 100% column shift speed 34mph. Doesn't match your normal full throttle 1-2 shift speed 32mph. Also there is a GM transmission section for trans only stuff. Probably get a few more trans guru's combing through that section.

    I just realized you posted in the transmission section a day ago and haven't gotten any bites there. I think your on the right track posting here in the gen 3 section as it has by far the most traffic. In the stickies there's a 4l60e tuning how-to in case you haven't already read through that.
    Last edited by Oleblu; 10-13-2016 at 08:24 PM. Reason: typo

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    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    I'm really green to this tuning but trying to learn, so what issues does my normal 1-2 part throttle and normal 1-2 full throttle speed being off cause?

    Also at a local shop said the idle tune is way off getting too much fuel. When I would first start the car it almost act like it was flooding and after a few miles would almost seem like it was going to have a hard time holding an idle when pulling up to a red light. The way I described it to the local shop was if the light turned red and I came to a fast stop it would die or close if I didn't save it. But if I was to ease up to the light it would be fine.

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    You always want your part throttle 100% throttle column shift speed to match your full throttle shift speed. This goes for every up shift. You should post a log or 2 and maybe we can get the rolling idle situation worked out also. Maybe a running airflow adjustment or timing adjustments will help that. You said in the transmission section the car is a heads and cam car correct? Post up your specs that will help also.

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    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    Forgot to add this but here's a run down of the motor:

    Heads - AFR Mongoose 230cc / 62cc
    Injectors - 60# FAST
    Intake - FAST 102MM
    Throttle Body - FAST 102MM
    Plugs - NGK TR55
    Fuel Pump - Aeromotive Stealth 340
    Block - LQ9 4.03"
    Cam - Comp 243/251, .624/.624, 111+1 LSA, 110 ISL Block - LQ9 4.03"
    Crank - Lunati 4.00" Stroke
    Pistons - JE 4.04, 12cc Dished for 11:1 compression
    Rods - Lunati 6.125" H-Beam

    Axles - Moser 30 Spline
    Center - Eaton Posi
    Converter - Yank 3600
    Rear - KTRE 3.73 12 Bolt
    Trans Cooler - B&M 24,000 with fan
    Transmission - 4L60E, Finish Line Level 5

    I have the copy of my current tune listed in the Beginning of thread, Thanks for any info!!

  6. #6
    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    Heads - AFR Mongoose 230cc / 62cc
    Injectors - 60# FAST
    Intake - FAST 102MM
    Throttle Body - FAST 102MM
    Plugs - NGK TR55
    Fuel Pump - Aeromotive Stealth 340
    Block - LQ9 4.03"
    Cam - Comp 243/251, .624/.624, 111+1 LSA, 110 ISL Block - LQ9 4.03"
    Crank - Lunati 4.00" Stroke
    Pistons - JE 4.04, 12cc Dished for 11:1 compression
    Rods - Lunati 6.125" H-Beam

    Axles - Moser 30 Spline
    Center - Eaton Posi
    Converter - Yank 3600
    Rear - KTRE 3.73 12 Bolt
    Trans Cooler - B&M 24,000 with fan
    Transmission - 4L60E, Finish Line Level 5

    I have the copy of my current tune listed in the Beginning of thread, Thanks for any info!!

    Anymore advice from anyone? Hopefully getting my cat our of the transmission shop Wednesday or Thursday and want to make sure things look good especially on my idle since it almost acts as if the car is flooding and needs to idle for a couple minutes before it clears itself out and idles smooth and steady. Also at a local shop said the idle tune is way off getting too much fuel. When I would first start the car it acts like it's flooded and after a few miles would almost seem like it was going to have a hard time holding an idle when pulling up to a red light. The way I described it to the local shop was if the light turned red and I came to a fast stop it would die or close if I didn't save it. But if I was to ease up to the light it would be fine.

    Thanks Everyone

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    Part-throttle shift:

    Normal, Performance, Cruise, Hot all need to be the same.

    Full Throttle Shift Speed:

    Needs to match the last table of each of the part-throttle shift tables from above (as stated previously).

    Force Motor Current:

    Copy the values from the 96 cells to the 100 cells.


    Your issues with idling are related to tuning. It just needs a proper idle/ve tune done on it. I would also check/revise your spark tables, imo.

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    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    Awesome will look into those, it currently is running a SD tune car wouldn't tune at all with the Texas Speed & Performance 100mm MAF. But running the SD tune the car felt really crisp in throttle response.

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    Tuner in Training neblackshirts's Avatar
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    To the Top!!