I think my tune is WAY, WAY, WAY off! Need a pro to take a look.

[CivilSavage]

I have a 1999 Camaro Z28, LS6, T56, Texas Torquer V3 cam, pacesetter headers, ported Ls6 heads, bbk intake, LS7 lifters, 3" exhaust, cutout/borla, rollmaster timing chain, slp oil pump...a few other things. I don't think it has ever been tuned properly. I moved to Denver from Long Island about two years ago. When I got to Colorado, the car was running VERY rough. I knew that I would need a new tune at this high elevation, so I wasn't suprised. There was a tuner shop that specialized in my car/ls motors nearby, so I took it there. The guy is a hack tuner. He got me running better....but I'm certain that I am running on a bad tune. Driveability is crap...rough idle(mainly my cam, but still), lugs and hesitates on acceleration from a stop, wants to die when I come to a stop(rpm's dip very low), other times the idle hangs..then slowly comes back down. I can smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust...I can't pass emissions. She sounds good....but does not run as good as it should. The motor was supposedly a new(3 years ago) forged LS6 with the mods I mentioned above. Before, it had a different motor pushing 1000 hp. My new motor went in and I drove it to a tuner in NY who charged $700 for the tune. I thought he was good...especially at that price. At least I could pass emissions in NY. Anyhow, I wonder if BOTH tuners had just doctored the tune that was already in my computer....a tune that was meant for 1000 horses with totally different mods. I will attach my tune and a datalog. Any help will be much appreciated.MD99camaro.hpt md3.hpl

[5FDP]

Yeah it's not the best tune.

The tune it setup with a speed density enhanced OS and if I read that correctly it makes it a SD only tune with no MAF sensor. Idealy you'd have the MAF failed in the tune for this but it's currently not set up this way.

Fuel trims are all over the place, nobody has bothered to really tune the VE table at all to correct for that.

Someone set the WOT AFR to 9.XX which is stupid rich and that's just going to bog the car down.

What fuel injectors are you running?

[CivilSavage]

I'm not sure about the injectors, I think they are stock. I did notice that the flow rate is set at 70.1 across the board. I compared that to another LS tune with similiar mods...the tunes look nothing alike.

[5FDP]

I'd pull an injector out and see what the part number is.

Stock injectors will be too small for a setup like this too.

Having the wrong size injector with the wrong information is just going to ruin the whole tune.

[CivilSavage]

I'm going to try to get that done this weekend. It's nice to know where to start...thank you.

[Jggregory99]

So. as a Newb I like looking at different tunes to get a better understanding of how the tune affect the vehicles performance and sometimes I see things , that, while maybe ARE correct, they puzzle me... So I am curious if anyone can explain the 12* timing dip at 800/.12 ...??? Like I said, I don't know...That is why I am asking... :-) ... And 1.474 PE EQ Ratio...??? WTH....!!! Would 14,000Ft Elevation REALLY need that much extra fuel...? Again...Don't know...So I ask...

[CivilSavage]

If you're looking at my tune/log, I have a feeling that EVERYTHING is way off. My tune is probably a perfect example of what not to do. We shall find out...

[dermotw]

That spark thing might be a typo! - Or, it could be emissions, but then they'd have to do the idle spark.. so it's still probably an error!

EDIT: If thats an NA car, your Inj. flow rate vs. Kpa is miles out surely. And it's flat across the board (normally it's not) Yours is about 70, std LS1 is about 27, mine, with 36lb injectors, about 38....all the rest of your injector parameters appear to be totally standard for an older LS1. Maybe the old, big injectors got removed but someone forgot to swap that table back???
Also the IAC reset, park etc. is not standard, the idle air is up at 19.. it does seem like someone did most of swapping your ECU values back to a more standard tune, but just missed/forgot a few??

[dermotw]

All your o2 sensors are set to no error reported as well... not a good idea if you're using them! Again, seems like how it quite likely would have been set when it was OL and 1000hp etc... but not now...

[CivilSavage]

Well that's one thing I can change right away...my rear O2's are deleted, but I am using the fronts.

[CivilSavage]

Which spark thing? I see a few things that look wrong on the spark tab when I compare it to another tune with similiar mods. Same with the injector flow rate like you mentioned. After I got my "tune", I took it back to the tuner a few times because it wasn't right. I know he was trying to get more air...so maybe he did that with the idle air. I wonder if I should start with a base tune...something completely different that hasn't been molested by dickheads. In any event, I have plenty of reading to do. If I understand correctly, a MAF tune will be easier than a SD tune. So I guess I'll start there. Time to read until my eyeballs hurt.

[5FDP]

Tuning speed density is easy with a wideband, I'd do VE first before tuning the MAF.

[dermotw]

By spark thing I meant the one cell at 12 degrees in your high table! Someone typo'd... lol. -I wouldn't start from scratch, just find a copy of a similar era LS tune from the repository and use the compare function of HPT (very useful) to see whats different, it highlights differences in green, but don't panic, it will mark absolutely any difference, so often you will see something shown as different when it's totally trivial, e.g. something set to 12.987 and in the other tune 12.988... sometimes you must change teh resolution to even see a difference.
I had a quick compare, and much of yours is standard, with just a few "oddball" things which I suspect came from the old engine setup. The main spark looked fairly well modified to me, but the idle spark didn't, would imho need improving. "I'm no expert" tho..

EDIT: and as 5FDP says, usual way is to get a rough idle setting, then tune the VE, then the MAF (then you go back to the idle, lol...).

[CivilSavage]

Well, I found out my injector size. There was a part number very visible...without taking anything apart. 01d030b.... 42 lb. injectors.

[GoatCheese]

It is amazing that your car even runs. I would get a stock file and start over that config file looks really bad. Start by getting the correct injector data for your exact injectors including the offsets, short pulse adders.. If you cant find that data I would get new injectors with available data.

[CivilSavage]

Yeah, I was thinking that I should get new injectors that have all the info. Green tops maybe?

[5FDP]

Deatchwerks is what I'd go with for a good injector with data.

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...-02-camaro-z28

[GoatCheese]

There is greentop data available so that would work but you would need to get the dvd from greg banish for the data and that is expensive. Also I believe those injectors spray pattern is more designed for 4valve setups like the fords. Fuel injector clinic also is a good option you would need 36-42lb/hr at 4bar (58psi). Most companies adversite there flow rate at 43.5psi so be aware of that.

[MMGT1]

GTP 36lb injectors(42lbs @ 58psi like mentioned above). Cheap, easy to find, and no offers of sexual favours required to get data on them. They would be perfect for you. If you do go with them, shoot me a PM when you do and Ill help to set them up properly.... and I'll help get that idle corrected as well. I got mine from Injector-rehab.com They match flow and give you the sheet with purchase as well. They have been perfect so far for me(2nd season on them but I only cover 1,500kms a year at most)

[CivilSavage]

I'm definitely going to get different injectors with the data that I'll need. I like the GTP idea and I'll let you know when I get them. Until then, I have made some changes to my tune. Most notably, I changed my injector flow rate numbers. They were at 70.7 across the board...I changed them all to 48.5. I also changed my target idle speed to 900 and that weird spark number in the octane tables. Now my throttle response in low RPM's is.....well, RESPONSIVE! Snappy, even. Also, it doesn't smell like it's running so rich. It feels like it has a lot more power. But when I get into it a little, it sputters and stumbles...doesn't want to go. Idle seems more smooth....but I still have the problem where the RPM's dip too low when I come to a stop, or even if I rev the motor...RPM's dip low and it seems like it wants to die. Idle will also hang at times, then come down slowly. Overall, it seems to run much better...but only in the low RPM's. I can't believe how much it was bogging down before! I'm afraid to beat on her and find out what higher RPM's are doing. Do I need to drive around and let the computer re-learn a bit? I'm thinking I can dial this injector in even better....I have searched for hours and hours and hours for some good info on these injectors. I have found VERY little. But I have made an improvement(maybe?) and now I have the bug....I almost forgot, here's the tune and two short data logs from after I made the changes.