I was looking to see other tunes for an l67, to compare my tune to. It is strictly a race vehicle now and gets no street driving and I'm looking to get the most out of the motor, I can post up my tune later.
I have an l67
3.4 pulley,
180* t stat
Open Headers,
Post the tune and any logs you have.
These are pretty simple cars to tune, not a whole lot needs to be changed to make then run good.
By open headers do you mean aftermarket headers with no cat back exhaust?
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Yeah. What he said. Post tune and logs.
I have a similar setup, except I have exhaust....
By open Headers I mean Aftermarket Headers for a V6 Camaro with Nothing after the Header Pipes. Its in a Race Vehicle that does 300 Ft Sand Drags. Here is the Tune File. Apparently I forgot to save the scan I will try it again and upload it later this week.
Racing 1st tune.hpt
Okay, post a log whenever.
I assume you are running 91+ octane fuel and have atleast 1 o2 sensor is one of the exhaust banks still, so it can read it.
Do you have a wideband??
I'd suggest one so you can dial in fueling and get the most out of the motor.
Otherwise the tune looks mostly all stock-ish. There are different ways of going about setting things up. Like the PE tables for example, you can either leave it the way it is and adjust the WOT AFR with the add vs rpm table or you can zero out the adder tables and command a flat 11-11.5 AFR with no changes. Seeing how it runs with a log can tell you/us how the timing looks, knock, fuel trims and what changes might be needed.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Yes I am running 110 Octane fuel, I am getting a Wideband so I can Dial it in just trying to figure out where to start, and any pointers as to what will help and what are the best ways to start.
You will need to monitor the fueling (wide band reading, LTFT) , timing and KR's over the RPM band. Then add more fuel (PE table) as required to get the car in about the 11.6 AFR at WOT and max boost. If no KR's show up add a small bit of timing timing at the critical power points, but back off if KR's show up. Dyno testing makes it easier but you can get close to what you need by monitoring and adjusting the timing and fuel.
Last edited by dlagrua; 07-27-2016 at 02:18 PM.
test 2.hpl
Here is the scan of it during a test. I dont have the wide band hooked up yet still have to weld in the bung for it. 17.02.36 is where it starts sorry there is alot of idle time.
also i don't know why some of the information isnt showing up
Is your o2 sensor unplugged?
Because you need that working on a these cars.
Also log knock retard, something is pulling timing down to zero but it's likely that your o2 sensor is a huge problem.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Its currently unplugged i need to weld a new bung on the header. getting that done this weekend. it did pull it down to 0 when I hit the rev limiter.
Makes sense, wasn't even thinking that at first lol.
Once your o2 sensor and the wideband o2 sensor are in, you should be in business for getting things dialed in.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
There is no reason you need a the factory narrowband o2 sensor. I've ran without one for years.
You're pretty close to stock as far as power is. You need to get your knock sensors working. And if you are going for absolute max power, a wideband will help a lot.
But with 110 octane in that vehicle, you can probably run smaller than a 3.4 pulley, which is where your big gains will come from. But, you should get your knock sensor working first.
I find it far easier to use one if you use it for fuel trims. If all he needs in a bung welded in to use it, you may as well have the sensor working.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Here is the question I have is for some reason when I hook up the scanner to scan some of the items never show anything. Is there a way to fix that or does that mean that the sensor needs to be replaced or what could cause that.
Anything you wish to see the gauges or the charts needs to be logged on the main channels table.
Some things might not read if the way they are setup is incorrect for the vehicle. Like if it's logging maf hz against X instead of MAP kpa against X as an example or it's logging the wrong airflow pid because there might be more than 1 that has the same-ish name.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
OK so here is the file with the o2 sensors connected. the Factory o2 is hooked up to the right bank and the Wideband is hooked up to the left bank. I have the wideband configured in the channel page but cant get it to work on the Chart vs time section. its an autometer gauge if that helps any.
any help is appreciated. and Thanks for your help
test4.hpl
I wonder if something is off with the wideband setup because on half the log in the channel display it shows 10 AFR then later it gets stuck at 14 afr. Even stays there during a WOT pull and does not bounce and follow the o2 sensor when it's trying to achive stoich, makes me think there is a issue with it logging in HPT. It should have enough fuel but right now I can't tell you if it's rich or not because something is goofy with the wideband.
Also be very careful about going WOT with a cold motor, I noticed the test hits you did were at 130 and 140 degree coolant temps. I've seen bad things happen to pistons when you do WOT on a cold engine or wipe out rod bearings from lack of oil flow. Oil flow is a major problem area for these engines too and that's why they tend to spin rod bearings alot.
Check for possible vacuum leaks too, your Long term fuel trims start off around +10 and then jump up to +16.4 when you came back to idle a second time. That normally means a pretty decent sized vacuum leak somewhere.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
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