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Thread: General tuning

  1. #1
    Advanced Tuner Rockrz's Avatar
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    General tuning

    I was going to install a wideband 02 with it's controller, but the tuner I'm talking to says he's rather me have a bung installed so he can temporarily install his own wideband setup for tuning purposes and remove once he's done.

    If this is possible, what would be the advantage of installing a wideband setup permanently?

    If there there is some advantage for having this installed permanently, I'd like to know. Otherwise, I'll save my money and let him use his setup.

  2. #2
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    The tuner is probably wanting to use his own wideband because of having it wired to work with his tuning software and hardware for data logging.

    If you have a bung installed for him to use, make sure you get an old O2 sensor to screw into it so it doesn't blow heat and carbon all over your car.

    If you want to get a wideband unit, go ahead. it picks up a broader range than the stock ones, and allows for better tuning precision.

    Good luck and have fun with your new project.

  3. #3
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    I always suggest my customers purchase a wideband, cheap insurance policy if you pay attention to it

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner Rockrz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEd View Post
    The tuner is probably wanting to use his own wideband because of having it wired to work with his tuning software and hardware for data logging.

    If you have a bung installed for him to use, make sure you get an old O2 sensor to screw into it so it doesn't blow heat and carbon all over your car.

    If you want to get a wideband unit, go ahead. it picks up a broader range than the stock ones, and allows for better tuning precision.

    Good luck and have fun with your new project.
    It has a plug in it now, so there's no exhaust escaping from it.

    I thought a wideband would not be wired in to my truck's ECM... and it would only be used by a tuner to dial in the air / fuel mixture.

    If that is true, then the tuner will install his equipment to do the tune and then remove it once he's done.



    Quote Originally Posted by HackAbuse View Post
    I always suggest my customers purchase a wideband, cheap insurance policy if you pay attention to it
    I assume you are talking about the read out it would be displaying.

    I do plan on installing one eventually, so when I do what am I looking for specifically when I'm watching the read out?

    Also, how much extra horsepower does a good tune provide on average?

    Mine is a stock 5.3L LS engine with cold air intake but otherwise stock.

  5. #5
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    If you understand what air fuel ratios mean and what good numbers and bad number are, then you you'll know what to look for.

    If stoich is 14.7, you'll see 14-15 or so on a wideaband during normal closed loop functions. If it enters DFCO on decel it will be much higher, like 16-17 plus because fuel is shut off. Heavy throttle depending on vehicle can range from 10-13 afr. Most stock silverado tunes run pretty rich and down into the low 11's to high 10's almost. A good tuned one should be able to see 12-12.5 AFR on a NA motor depending on fuel grade. I don't like running 87 octane in mine, runs different to me and more chance at knock, so I stay with 89 octane. These are just general numbers for AFR and every vehicle is a little different.


    Depending on the year of that 5.3 you have they came with many different power ratings from the factory. Early ones only got 285hp and slowly started going up to 295, 300ish, then 325 and up with the newer motors. The early motors don't have the best cylinders heads as the later ones, they also got flat top pistons and better intake manifolds as the years went on. I'm only guessing here but I'd say you might pick up 10-20hp on a tune with a strong running stock motor. Factor in drivetrain loss and maybe 260-290hp to the tire??
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  6. #6
    Advanced Tuner Rockrz's Avatar
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    Great info, thanks!

    Mine is a 2009 Chevy Colorado with 5.3L, 4spd Auto. It's an LS2 which I think is rated at 300hp stock.

    From what I've learned it has the stock truck intake which is supposed to be pretty decent for stock although it's kinda ugly looking which of course has nothing to do with performance either way.

    I'm really not wanting to build a street racer or anything like that, but I do want to tweak it so it's performing as good as it can so if I can gain potentially 10 to 20 hp that would be great.

    I heard a decent aftermarket intake, FAST LSXR 102mm, could add another 10 to 20 hp just as a bolt on mod, but I suppose that would be a lot of money to spend for that.

    Are these good intakes to look at?

  7. #7
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    The LS2 is a 6.0 motor, your truck should have the LH8 which is the aluminum motor like the LC9 in the silverado's but slightly different to make it work in the smaller trucks. And yes it's rated at 300hp like you say.

    The NNBS/TBSS truck intakes that are on these are great from the factory. Very good for making power with great flow compared to the older NBS intakes on the 99-07 trucks.

    Look at your dollar per horsepower gain with a LSXR intake, after you factor in the intake and maybe a throttle body upgrade you are aren't getting your moneys worth. Over $1,000 just to move the power band up slightly and gain 15-20hp is not worth it to me. You won't outflow the stock intake so it doesn't make sense to upgrade. The intake would be the last thing I'd ever upgrade on one of these motors and by that time I'd want to spend the money and just go supercharger/turbo.

    You'd be further ahead if you just did a cam swap or headers instead of a intake upgrade.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  8. #8
    Advanced Tuner Rockrz's Avatar
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    So, when I go in to have the Tuner do his thing (I found a shop that does vettes, and other high end cars so hopefully they know their business)... are there any special requests I should be making?

    As an example, I've heard guys say that the rev limiter should either be turned off all together, or at least increased.

    And, isn't there a max speed limiter? Should that be turned off. What about traction control? Should that be turned off?

    Any ideas that you guys think I should put on my list of requests would be appreciated.

  9. #9
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how much they can gain from it so I don't have much to say with special requests.


    Raising the rev limiter wouldn't help any, the factory cam isn't going to make anymore power past redline because it's already past peak torque.

    Check your driveshaft, if it's aluminum you speed limited to 100mph because over that they can vibrate and explode. Steel driveshafts can go higher but it's worthwhile to have it high speed balanced.

    I mean if you already own HP Tuners you may aswell just tune it yourself and save the money from a dyno shop.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  10. #10
    Advanced Tuner Rockrz's Avatar
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    Yeah, I thought about trying to do it myself but it sure seems like it would be easy to screw up the engine trying to advance the timing without getting the fuel tables (or fuel maps, can't remember what this is called) correct to prevent it from being too lean and burning a valve or a valve seat or something.

    Early on I read an article about tuning errors and it sounded like I'd have to do a lot of training to get up to speed which I really don't have time for since I run my own business having long days most of the time.