Im having a hell of a time with kr on this car. I pull timing and it dosent seem to do anything i have like 6* of timing at wot. i now timing isnt smooth yet. Its the stock timing tables just smoothed out when i started
lnf test.hptlnf 1.hpl
Im having a hell of a time with kr on this car. I pull timing and it dosent seem to do anything i have like 6* of timing at wot. i now timing isnt smooth yet. Its the stock timing tables just smoothed out when i started
lnf test.hptlnf 1.hpl
Tune file is locked.
2017 Silverado LTZ
Fuel? Premium I assume, 91-93 octane?
2017 Silverado LTZ
try now idk why i have it locked
lnf test.hpt
he says its 93
try now idk why i have it locked
lnf test.hpt
That's still a no go on opening that tune file. Get the message now of : "Unable to open file." "This file is part of a Remote Tuning network that you are not part of."
2017 Silverado LTZ
but this isnt done by remote tuning
ok think i found the issue if this doesnt work idk what to do lol
lnf test.hpt
anyone?
Bump
you are running multi-variable cam tables, your dals look stock (no compare file right now), your waste gate duty shows your dals are not proper, Ignition needs to be moved and adjusted in conjunction with the opti spark table which you didn't do because those are all out of order as well, your opti-torque is bone stock which causes some issues on its own, and your timing correction tables are still active which is a no-no when hunting down kr issues on a base ignition table.
i would also recommend you leave the injector trq disable table stock. there is no major benefit to altering it other than you loose some fail-safe features when you shut those cells off.
i feel you have missed valuable information that is listed in the bible threads i would go back and refresh yourself. the new threads from bill and mike explain exactly how to go about adjusting the timing with opti-spark properly so i would read those as well.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
the dals and wastegate duty cycle are stock haven't messed with them yet because of these issues.but i guess ill have to go and reread the threads again. The lnfs are so much harder to tune then my 2.2 or lsjs
You should stop tuning, return to stock, and spend a month or more (yes that long) reading and rereading CCSOB's LNF Bible thread. You should also be logging just to get an understanding of what's going on. And search. There is nothing with the LNF that hasn't been discovered/revealed/posted.
*hint* check CCSOB's sig. There's enough information in there to keep you busy for months and help you learn to tune the LNF. It's not easy, but it's not hard either.
uggghhh this is so frustrating i can do 2.2s and lsjs no problem but these lnfs are a pita idk why i cant get this
and i will
can i just adjust the maf for the maf relocate at least? and just put the timing and all that back to stock?
You can get this. I started 3 weeks ago and I have never tuned anything more than another platform with a piggy back in the past. I now have a nice 23-23.5psi in all gears (dropping to 20.5 at redline since thatis all the stock K04 seems to be able to deliver), and have ramped up timing over my GMS1 tune I started with to have 1.5-2* more in the mid range and going up t o 4* more than that at redline. Makes a huge difference. It's not rocket science and I would plan on leaving as much as the stock tune in place as possible and go after the thing you MUST do and need to do to make more power. I would not make it a goal to try to fiddle with and touch every table you have access to (not saying you are doing that, but much information on this board might lead you to believe you need to). For example, I don't have any major objections to my idle nor the cat warm up cycle. I left those and saved myself some headache with turning off the cat warmup and having to screw around with the idle because of it.
I have seen more than one comment from the pro's on this or another board that the cam timing tables are pretty well optimized for the stock turbo and there is very little to be gain from playing with those. So I am leaving them stock and saving myself another possible headache.
You need to fix any maf relocation issues because if the ECU does not know what the real reading is you are going to end up chasing your tail. After that richen up your PE table to get the AFR a little more safe. Then adjust your boost (this is not real hard, but does have a few tricks where you need to adjust a few tables that limit you before you begin to "tune" boost by RPM, as well as set a few "max" values before setting MALT, DAL's, WG duty cycle). Once you have boost set where you want it, go after your main spark tables and ramp up timing a little at time, I suggest just in the high load areas (180 and up), smoothing that back in to the stock tables by 4-5 load ranges (towards the middle of the table). I did not change the entire rest of the table, nor even smooth the rest of the table. My idea on this is someone was paid a lot of money to optimize the spark for efficiency and emissions for the low and mid load areas and I don't need to touch them purely for the sake of making them look smoother. (to each their own though).
You spark tables table are not going to change how your optimum spark tables work so much that you absolutely have to go after those (2-4 degrees of additional timing in the high load areas of main spark don't disturb that much how the factory optimum spark tables work). But you can go after these to change the characteristic of how the engine reacts to pedal input (you can give it a more lively and urgent feel by playing with these as described).
My point here is if it ain't broke to you, don't fix it. I did not have a huge problem with how my felt with the GMS1 tune that came when I bought it. So I was mainly after more and steady boost (GMS1 would ramp up boost keeping it lower in the mid range and going higher as it neared redline), along with as much timing as I could safely get using the 93 octane pump gas I am on.
So go back to a completely stock tune, but don't give up. Just approach one thing at a time and make sure that is right before you go on to the next. In a few weeks of going step by step you can get it done too. I would be glad to post my tune (stock GMS1 except the areas I noted) if it might help you.
BTW, if you have less than stock timing and are knocking, then it sounds like something is physically wrong and causing real or false knock, but from physical problem.
Last edited by califcarm; 04-12-2016 at 04:31 PM.
the fuel trims are fine from the looks of my logs
There is a lot of reasons to change away from stock, and it has nothing to do with just smoothness. How about motor safety for one! A car that drops timing at WOT becau of a piss poor table from stock, or one that causes a ton of heat build up because you decided to up the boost and not mess with other tables. Why do you think I get so mad at people just guessing on here and not asking questions!? Why do you think I don't trust these so called "Pro Tuners"!? Sorry for the frustration, but to say you have been doing this for 3 weeks, and then to give some long extreme answer saying if it ain't broke don't fix it kind of attitude, is exactly what is wrong with tuners. If you don't fully understand how these tables work, and more importantly, what is safe for the car and what is not, then why are you calling anything good?
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