05 SSR with magnuson supercharger help!

[smallblock500]

I have a 2005 chevy SSR LS2 4l65e. The kit came with the S107 semins 60# injectors and I cant get the truck to idle under 2600 RPM. Does anyone have a file from magnuson that will work on this truck to use as a starting point?

[5FDP]

You should it's not something with a install error?

Like a massive vacuum leak or something along those lines??

I don't feel that the tune it causing it to idle really high.

[smallblock500]

it could be a vacc leak but should the TPS at idle be 29%? is that normal? I haven't messed with many of these DRW motors.

[Draenor]

No, mine stays right around 1.2-1.5%. Can you post your tune? What are your Base Running Airflow values?

[5FDP]

On GEN 4 computers the TPS value at idle can be anywhere from 18-22% from what I've noticed. They also only read up to 84% at WOT too.

A gen 3 DBW computer is different.

[smallblock500]

I have a mustang chassis dyno that the truck will go on to be tuned once I get the idle and part throttle under control so I'm not concerned about that part of it. Here is the file that I'm working with and a log of what its doing. at the end of the log I revved it a little bit and the truck went full retard and sounded like it was running on 4 clys and the reduced engine power light came on as well as a few codes. P0068, P0121, P0300, P1101. This is a brand new kit that he got from summit racing It's their hotrod blower kit since they don't sale a kit for the SSR anymore.

[smallblock500]

This kit also came with a fuel pump voltage booster on what I'm sure is the stock pump.

[Lakegoat]

If you goosed it, You might have broken some spark plug ceramics in the cylinder. You definitely need the pump booster.

[Lakegoat]

Your ETC area scalar is 0.000, it should be 4,725.000
I believe that I had a boost referenced full return fuel system when this tune was done, so be sure and adjust your injector info.

[smallblock500]

with your tune on it the truck idles about where it should but it sounds like it has a HUGE cam in it. the wideband says its ideling at 21:1 afr. I can rev it up a little and hold it at 2000 ish rpm and still lean if I goose it the afr dips down to 10 or so like it should.

[smallblock500]

changed the ECT area scaler and still doing the same thing.

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

from that small minor datalog

your vaccum is close to atmospheric and your IPW is very high and your timing adapts are working overtime

[Lakegoat]

I was hoping that you would just take parts of the tune. You have to use the stock proportional and Integral tables and start with the stock timing tables. This was just to get it started idling. You will have to adjust the VE table to your engine---and did you correct the injector info?

[smallblock500]

I did both. I tried your motor tune as you sent it then I started making changes from there. As far as I can tell the injector data is right. And I have moved the VE table all around and it's getting better but still has a lean lope.

[Lakegoat]

OK, Here is a table from my tune which has a boost referenced regulator which is 47.6 across. The other table is from a stock car with stock fuel pump setup. yours should look like the latter with the Siemens injector numbers. It will never tune correctly if you use my table.
Anybody here have some info for the op with these injectors? Maybe call Summit if that's where you got the kit.
I'm not sure what you mean by "I moved the VE table around"---sounds like trouble on a boosted motor.

[smallblock500]

Borrowed a smoke machine found a huge vacc leak between the head and intake. Going to fix that and go from there. Thanks for all of your help so far.

[kelleyperformance]

LSA toruqe sequence.pngyeah you have to be VERY careful and gentle when your setting up those blowers... they are all one piece, heavy and bulky, and there are really no alignment tabs- they are cut off. my advice, from someone whos done countless Magnacharger installs-
1. your going to want to remove the blower, to make sure you didn't "pinch" any of the intake gaskets on any ports- this is common with a leak like that- the gasket gets twisted and mangled then you torque it down like that- and even though not much time has passed, I HIGHLY suggest you replace the intake gaskets and remove the blower.
2. replace the gaskets, make sure the heads are clean, no debris anywhere in the valley, etc. you will need a helper for this to do it right, especially on the SSR as your are having to lean over those fenders.
3. our little trick to prevent the gaskets from getting pinched or damaged is- RIGHT before you go to set the blower on, spray down the heads around the intake ports with a good glass cleaner, I suggest AC Delco glass cleaner. it evaporates clean, doesn't hurt seal- but allows the gaskets to "slide" freely while you are adjusting the blower into ideal center. once you set it on, your going to want to have you and your helper basically pick the blower straight up and lay it down slowly and gently into as close to center as you can. keep in mind, glass cleaner dries quick so don't pause during this setup. start a few bolts on each side, they should thread in by hand no issue. if they don't, your still way off center. by now, glass cleaner is dry, so any needed forward or backward or side to side movement required, youll want to do that "lift and drop" procedure to keep from pinching the gaskets. once you can start 3-4 intake bolts on each side, screw them in until there is about 3/4" of the bolt sticking out, and then lift the blower up one last time and SLOWLY set STRAIGHT down to make sure its centered.
4. how you install and the order you torque the bolts to is CRITICAL! the torque amount is also CRITICAL! your going to want to torque in two even sequences, just as the stock manifold and stock GM blowers call for. use a socket and/or socket with extension and just run all the bolts in by hand till snug. youll then want to start by torqueing them the FIRST sequence- 43-44 in.lb (NOT ft/lb lol- hey youd be surprised, ive had people do things like that lol). you want to start in the middle- (see attached pic- it shows you the proper order. its an LSA blower, but the sequence is the same). now after you've snugged by hand, start by doing your 43-44 in/lb (inch pound) first pass in the sequence order. I suggest going back and CAREFULLY double checking that all the bolts are evenly torqued before going to the final stage. after that, do the same sequence with your final pass of 89-90 inch/lbs of torque. if you follow my instructions to a tee, I promise you there is NO way you get a vacuum leak!

im not sure what model blower your installing, and I heard you say you didn't have the base software from Magnacharger? I DO have a tune file that will be a great base for you. feel free to shoot me an email if youd like to talk more about this and if youd like the tune file. if your installing a Radix- M112 or M122, your going to have to use stock Vortec truck plastic one piece intake gaskets, and they must be cut/trimmed to fit the blower. if you've never done this it can be tricky. im always happy to help other people if I can, after all if it weren't for others helping me along the way who knows how much further behind id be today.

btw- do NOT try to separate the blower form the tub/lower manifold to make this easier- its a PITA to put together- you need a gasket kit from Magnason, little silicone, easy to fudge that and make another leak lol. (im sure people will post that no its easy, just get rubber stripping from hardware store, etc- but im hoping, as you can see from the detail of my post here that I like to do things one way and one way only- the RIGHT way, the way things were intended to be done lol!

again, feel free to email me- I hope this was of some help to you; whether you have any other questions or want that baseline tune, my email is [email protected]

John

[GHuggins]

Please don't "goose it"... You never ever ever goose a motor when it's not tuned... Just that simple. Seen too many destroyed from people doing things like this..... After fixing your leaks, tune the VE then tune the MAF for idle to an easy revved to 2000 rpms. DO NOT "goose it". Just trying to save you from buying a new motor...