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Thread: ZFR 7163 Full build motor everything new up 8* KR 42lb/min HELP

  1. #1
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    ZFR 7163 Full build motor everything new up 8* KR 42lb/min HELP

    Hi all I am having tons of knock up to 8 degrees.
    I have a full build motor and running the ZFR7163.
    I can see up to 42lb/min.
    I am not a tuner I am just a mechanic.
    Any help will be appreciated.

    Please let me know where I can start what kind of info would you like to see.
    I have H/P tuners but like I said I am not a tuner just a weekend warrior lol.

    This car has
    AEM intake
    3 inch HANN and ZZP exhaust
    No cat
    HANN inter cooler and pipping.
    6 speed transmission
    Weiseco pistons
    72lbs valve springs
    ZZP connecting rods
    ZZP Radiator
    ZZP Stage 2 Cams
    Turbo Tech Racing Intake
    6 speed transmission
    Stage 5 clutch
    Fidenza Aluminum flywheel
    ATI super damper
    APH head studs
    and tons of knock!!!

    I love this car very much and I don't have a clue on where to start to make it run properly.
    I like to track it.
    Circuit Racing

    Please some one help!!!
    I would really like to learn how to do this my self but I have no experience in tuning.
    I tried the Maf calibration I did maybe 20 logs of 40 minutes driving and still my STFT is all over the place.

    New Plugs A/C delco .032
    New O2
    New Maff
    New COils
    New Cam and Crank sensors
    New coolant and Oil
    New VVT actuators
    Stage 2 MAP sensor
    Opel Injectors

    1000 miles on the motor


    Thank you all in advance
    Last edited by Mario; 10-03-2015 at 03:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    you need a log file of the vehicle running.. if you already have a long log then one of those would be best but dont drive it more than you have too. also we need to see the tune file.
    log must include: rpm, speed, load, maf hz, maf lb/min, injector ms, fuel rail pressure, boost lo res kpa, map sensor kpa, ignition advance, total kr, wideband lambda b1,
    ect %, etc pedal %
    Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 10-03-2015 at 04:01 PM.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  3. #3
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    thank you for the quick response.
    here are the files.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
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    I am missing a few of the pids or sensors I believe I will make a new one with them on.
    Should I make any histograms specific?
    or should I have all the info running on the charts?

    thank you

  5. #5
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    as long as they are plotted in the table of the scanner then we can make our own histograms
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    1) 12.1 afr is pretty rich. i would run .85 around 3k and up top above 4500 i would go richer towards .845. these motors like to be run lean low 12's cause problems with cylinder loading and thus detonation.
    2) catalytic converter over temp protection is still enabled and i guarantee you that you are triggering it so now your wot adding more fuel on top of that which is most likely dropping you to 11.9 afr...this is a no no. set the entire table to 1.00 and never touch it again.
    3) you are running 2 separate sets of cam values for both cams. copy the warm tables and paste them into the cold tables for that same cam. (int/exh)
    4) you are running 4 different advance tables for ignition. copy the top left one (in min, ex min) and paste it into the other 3. if you make any changes make them to the same top left table, after the changes copy the whole table then paste the copied data into the other 3 tables again. the idea is to keep all cam conditions the same ignition value.
    5) you have heavily active afr and iat ignition advance modifier. shut them off by setting the tables to 0.


    all you have right now is a factory tune file with poor fueling changes and maybe some wg massaging to keep boost in line. you need to watch the LNF Guide Videos before you flash another tune into your vehicle and drive it. i spotted all these problems through the file alone without once peeping at the log. i can tell right away you are on the fast track to destroying a great engine build. stop, slow down and soak in some more information, ask some questions, and then start tuning it again.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  7. #7
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    Thank you very much for the info like I said I do not know how to tune this is a tune that I got from a shop they where saying that there is nothing wrong with it and its just my fuel.
    I do not want to start mentioning names.
    I will start with your recommendations right away and hopefully get this motor running better.

  8. #8
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    You have those mods done and YOU are going to start with his recommendations? My advice would be to find someone to do it for you and do your research this time on who. Not trying to be a d*ck I'm just trying to be honest and helpful.

  9. #9
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    All the changes you recommended are done.
    I got the KR histogram and I subtract what ever was recorded from all 4 main advanced tables (after they where all set the same)
    I think I'll flush this back and make a new log just to see where the car is at.
    Thank you

  10. #10
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    If you make a run please post the log and the tune you ran back up because I'd like to see your file reviewed here to make sure it is on track for safety.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  11. #11
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    This is my point (again nit trying to be rude but helpful). You are making changes to a build that has some money in it and you have no idea what you are doing. Having money into your engine is probably the worst way to learn how to tune these motors in my opinion. I would pay someone to tune it and learn as they tune and possibly go from there or just leave it up to them. Not having any baseline and testing on a motor with money into it is not a recommendation from me.

  12. #12
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    Hi MikeM I wish it was this easy for me to find some one close to take the car to.
    I am in Toronto Ontario Canada.
    If you know anyone that I could take the car to to have it done right I am all ears.
    So far the car has been in 3 different places (ones was a 7 hour drive) and what you see on the files supposed to be the best results.
    I am not an idiot I just gave up trusting tuners I think they all just see me as a pile of money coming through their door.
    This is the 3rd motor on the car one was under warranty the original blow up at the track with the smaller ZFR running on 110 oct and tuner telling me that there was nothing wrong with the file just the gas I was putting in the car.
    I am very frustrated and I don't want to start pointing fingers or naming shops.
    I just want my car to run right.

  13. #13
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    here is a log file and also adjustments I made based on Overbooster123qqq.hplfor HP tuners.hpt
    Last edited by Mario; 10-04-2015 at 02:28 PM.

  14. #14
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    MikeM does the original file look good to you?

  15. #15
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    I have not looked at the file. I don't do much posting on here anymore other then just some words of advice like I just gave you. There is a lot of good guys on here that can help point you in the right direction. Some still learning as you, and others that are pretty good at it. It's not impossible to learn yourself, I would just exercise some caution with the whole process.

  16. #16
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    run 1.hplrun2.hplfor HP tuners after 1.hpt

    Overbooster here I have the run 1 and run 2 the run 2 is from adjustments after run 1 on KR only subtract from the main tables.
    the car is making lass power but I have less KR as well.
    Let me know if there is anything else I could do to get rid of KR completely.
    Should I continue to subtract?

    I also got the power down a bit on the 2nd gear cause it was burning the R888 out of control.

    Thank you for taking the time to look in to this so far I see less KR and I feel a bit better.

  17. #17
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    ok question frame 10193 and up commanded lambda is 1 even though I am 3700 rpm and stays there till 5375 at 80 to 156 load.
    ???

  18. #18
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    This is why I recommend finding a tuner and not driving the car until then. A lot can go south.

  19. #19
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    you desired airload table is way too high mate....i can make 28psi with only 238 dals. anything over 255 becomes very unstable. again watch the dal table video. but instead of 255 use 240.
    you have pulled way to much ignition out of the advance table and its not very smooth. you need to keep your changes smooth or else the shift from one cell to another will be extremely different in load and cause issues. start with the factory ignition table. not all the lnf kr is solved by the old school way of removing advance, sometimes it needs to be added but we dont try that step until all other solutions have been reviewed first.
    the tip-in retard table stock. it prevents tip in kr events from showing up in the scanner.

    some of your kr is from a combination of tip in detonation and the dals being set too high. setting the dals too high can cause the ecu to command wild values in a matter that is too fast for your actual engine to accept the conditions. cut it down some and keep your changes smooth.
    after reviewing the log you are activating pe in your run2 file. so your fuel is safe at wot for now. seems to me your having ignition problems so as mentioned you need to run a lower dal value, start back at the factory ignition table, and work your way from there.
    every chance you get keep working on those fuel trims. the closer they stay to 0 the better.

    once this tune produces a safe to drive pattern in the log you can safely drive to whomever you will have finish your tune.
    Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 10-04-2015 at 10:47 PM.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  20. #20
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    Questions

    int Max exhaust Min = Accelerate commanded power ?
    intake Min Exhaust Max = slowing down commanded power ?
    Intake Max Exhaust Max = cruise commanded power ?
    intake min exhaust min = Idle commanded power ?

    does that makes sense?

    Also Intcam and Excam DC% what is that?

    I can feel the car kind of missing on about 2000 rpm I'll work in to smoothing that out.

    I did the DAL table to 240 and drop to 235 down to 3000 rpm then smooth the rest behind it 90, 80, 70 and 60. I'll see how that will work. if there is tip in detonation this should take care of it.

    I got the timing tables to stock and did adjustments thinking that cam min and max will work the way above.

    Thank you for your help I am not planing of taking this car to anyone.
    So far like I said I am not happy with the people that all ready had it working at 8* kr.
    I will try to tune this my self.
    I am reading on all post and trying adjustments when I see knock I stop.

    My EGT sensors so far have been reading a little higher than before I am sitting at about 620 C cruising and when I accelerate goes to about 750 C Coolant Temp is normal 82 to 87 C
    KR always monitored!!!

    Let me know if there is anything else I should be keeping my eyes on while working on this.

    Again thank you very much for all the info

    I'll post the files after I get home.