Can someone take a look?

[PurplePiss]

Are you saying you run 13.0:1 AFR throughout the entire rpm range? Or just at part load?

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

no you want it set to 1.00 in the olfa table then keep the pe working as usual, as long as you have a WB

[PurplePiss]

You totally lost me. You mean in the AFR Stoich table you set it to 13.0? What is OLFA?

Is there a write-up somewhere on how all this stuff interrelates? I have the LTFT STFT MAF tuning document, but it doesn't really deal with this. Between fueling and timing, I'm lost. How do you decide to run 23* in one cell and 27 in another cell? How can you tune that?

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

do you have a wideband?

[PurplePiss]

I have the LC-1, but I had trouble getting it to work as NB and WB. I decided I'm going to have a bung welded in, but I haven't had it done yet.

[Russ K]

You totally lost me. You mean in the AFR Stoich table you set it to 13.0? What is OLFA?

Is there a write-up somewhere on how all this stuff interrelates? I have the LTFT STFT MAF tuning document, but it doesn't really deal with this. Between fueling and timing, I'm lost. How do you decide to run 23* in one cell and 27 in another cell? How can you tune that?

You enter 1.13 (13.0 afr) into your PE vs TPS eq table. Then at that pe enable tps, you will be commanding 13.0 afr. You then need to use a wide band O2 to scale the maf to get an actual 13.0 afr.
OLFA means open loop fuel air (multiplier)
The 2005 LS2 uses some different tables for OLFA. Something to do with injector tip temp? And different multipliers than the LS1/LS6 engines. Not sure how to set up those tables.

Russ Kemp

[Tim05GTO]

Leave the map hyst stock. If your tuning the maf, leave the ve table alone.
I would 0 out the afr advance table, as that will add timing when in pe.
If your not checking the afr with a wide band, leave the pe muti & maf the same as Tim05gto if his afr was right. The pe enable tables I mentioned earlier are to get into pe sooner when you go wot from an idle.

Russ Kemp

I tuned my car (bone stock M6) on the street with the WB. The actual AFRs match the commanded AFRs (VE and MAF). For other stock cars my tables should be "close" but I would still verify with a WB if you "close" isn't good enough. Timing will also vary. What might work on my car may or may not be 100% right for others. If it is right on the edge of knock one degree can make a difference. With the corrected VE/MAF tables the g/cyl moved down a bit causing an increase in commanded timing with the factory tables. This presented a degree or two of knock retard so I had to tweak the timing a bit so that I didn't enter into KR.

Tim

[PurplePiss]

I saw some knock today in the exact areas that you changed from version 0001 to 0004.

Question. My tps at idle is 8-10, shouldn't it be 0?

[Russ K]

With your drive by wire (ETC) the 8-10% tps is how far open the throttle blade is open for your idle speed.
My 2001 ZO6 idles @1000 rpm with 9% tps. Maybe log absolute or relative tps.
None etc cars (F-body) are controlled by an IAC

Russ Kemp

[PurplePiss]

Tim, would it be better to lean out your tune and run less timing? Your running 12.7-12.8 down low.

[Tim05GTO]

Tim, would it be better to lean out your tune and run less timing? Your running 12.7-12.8 down low.

It's a fine line... the leaner you go the more heat you will generate in the combustion chamber. Up to a point this is good but if things get too hot you run the risk of pre-ignition. Timing is about igniting the air/fuel mixture at the proper time so that you generate the most force on the piston you can at the proper time without knock.

Honestly... you are splitting hairs at some point. Without a Mustang or Superflow dyno it is going to be very difficult to determine which variable is going to net you the best torque/power. A Dynojet just doesn't load the car enough to tune correctly. Even at the track it would be difficult to determine as weather conditions, traction, shifting will change throughout the day. At most you are talking a few HP plus or minus.

Tim

[WorkingManPerf.]

purplepiss: I pm'ed you on ls1gto.com

[PurplePiss]

I agree with you Tim. I ran Curtis' tune and saw major knock and flipped back to your tune and ran .05 slower with a little knock. I'll post up the logs and tunes tommorrow so everyone can comment. I think you'll find it very telling. Something is wrong with my car though. There were 2 stock gto's running 12.55 to 12.99 and mine was 13.15-13.20 and I have programming, exhaust, tires, etc. Mine has always been slow and I'm starting to really get concerned.

[WorkingManPerf.]

sent you my current tune. while I was on the dyno fri my afr from 5500 on up kept climbing right past 13.0 almost to 14.0. she a little better now. she did 348/349 on the rollers and on sat did 12.94 at 108 on stock tires.

[PurplePiss]

Here are my logs. I wish you could clip out the frames you want and delete the rest. Just fast forward till you see the burnout and then the ski jumps of it running up through the gears.

I reset the fuel trims each time I tried a new tune. Shouldn't matter though since your running in OL WOT anyway. Or does it matter? Why doesn't HPT tell you anything when you press the reset fuel trims button?

Run#1 was with Tim's tune
13.20@106, 2.035 60 ft. (wasn't ready)

Run#2 was Tim's tune with Curtis' HO table
Major Knock on the top end. 1-3 degrees
[email protected]. 1.968 60 ft. (1200 rpm)

Run#3 switched back to Tim's tune, reset FT
13.119@106, 1.961 60 ft. (it picked up hmmm)

Run#4 Same tune from here on out. No resetting of FT.
13.224@105, 1.977 60 ft. (IAT heatsoaked up from 80 to 92) even though it was like 60 outside. I swear next time I'm going to do the resistor mod and just tell it what temp it is outside.

Run#5
13.181@100 (Let off because I had dialed 13.20) Car picked up and I didn't hit the brakes hard enough. I had the other guy covered by a lot. Damnit.

Here are the 2 tunes and the scans. If someone could take a look and tell me what you think I would appreciate it.

Incidently, I have always had the feeling that I got a "Lemon". There is always a guy there with an 05 A4 that runs .5 faster and he's STOCK. He was running 12.50-12.55 yesterday. So I just thought oh well he has a freak. There was another 05 A4 there running 12.99-13.0 and I'm positive its stock. So, could the cat back be slowing me down? Compression down? Pushrods bent? Lemon?

Any comments much appreciated.

[PurplePiss]

The tunes and config. Still cannot upload tunes. Can someone fix this?

Here they are:
http://www.outlawpontiacdragseries.c...omod1.5Tim.hpt

http://www.outlawpontiacdragseries.c...d1.6curtis.hpt

[WorkingManPerf.]

Downloaded my-your tune. compare to current one in my car. PLace that your knock is occuring, I have removed timing from these areas.

Look like your 60ing good. I was pulling 108.5 through traps. she just not pulling. got stock air intake back on???

LSx series motor make best power(hp) at 26-27* timing.


12.5's are not stock ever.

[PurplePiss]

You mean the tune I'm using has timing pulled or you have a newer version.

I have the stock airbox with relocated IAT. I removed the cowling gasket, but I'm thinking that maybe on the top end its actually pulling a vacuum under the hood and pulling air out of the airbox. I'm only seeing a max of 106 mph. 60 ft is because of the 2895 Pedders (which i highly recommend for drag racing only. Car handles like shit on the highway) and the nitto 555r 275x17's. (fender lip persuaded to stay out of the way).

[WorkingManPerf.]

yep tune I sent you this moring which is my current one.