Wideband question ?

[realcanuk]

I had to change my wideband, due to issues with my old one.

If my trims are all near 0, and my wideband reads Lambda 1 in HPT ( between .99 and 1.01) can I assume I have set it up properly, without going through checking voltage offsets, etc.

[schpenxel]

Same brand/type or a different one?

You really need two points of reference to be sure it's right. Does it have a gauge or does it only plug into HPT? I usually compare readings with engine off, ignition in "on" position (I know, not really a switch in a C6..) and that should get you a stable reading that isn't 1 lambda. Compare readings on gauge (if you have one) and HPT to confirm they agree

[Higgs Boson]

you might have the stoich point right but the slope could be wrong.

[realcanuk]

It is not the same one I had and it has no gauge. It is a PLX with the new Bosch sensor. I use it with HPT and with my aeroforce gauge but that doesn't really confirm anything since I have to come up with the slope and intercept for that also.

[schpenxel]

This page has all the formulas (go under technical specs), depending on what unit you're using. I'm using the same wideband and the formula I'm using is V / 7.353 + 0.68 (units of Lambda, of course). The reading in HPT matches the one on the gauge.

http://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O...7346002719.htm

2.5 volts equals lambda=1 for most widebands. The difference is how much each volt equates to in terms of changes in AFR/lambda. That is different for different widebands, depending on their range.

[realcanuk]

This page has all the formulas (go under technical specs), depending on what unit you're using. I'm using the same wideband and the formula I'm using is V / 7.353 + 0.68 (units of Lambda, of course). The reading in HPT matches the one on the gauge.

http://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O...7346002719.htm

2.5 volts equals lambda=1 for most widebands. The difference is how much each volt equates to in terms of changes in AFR/lambda. That is different for different widebands, depending on their range.

Actually, I think 2.35 volts equals 1 lambda, according to spreadsheets I have tried. I actually have the same formula as you, and was getting a reading of steady .99. I adjusted the offset a tiny bit so that it is reading 1 exactly. I guess if you are using the same thing, and the gauge matches, I can assume it is correct.
You are comparing to the PLX gauge that comes with it ?

[schpenxel]

Yep, I was using the gauge that comes with the wideband (in some of the kits), so it doesn't have to be programmed or anything like that. I just stuffed it in the glovebox for the time being but don't really use it after confirming everything matches in HPT

Yeah 2.35V comes out to like 0.99 lambda. 2.5V comes out to 1.02 or so. Point being.. most widebands output roughly 2.5V at stoich, so just getting a proper reading (or close) at stoich isn't enough to confirm it's actually reading right

It sounds like yours is fine though. Mine actually did the exact same thing.. I was reading 0.98 to 0.99 while O2's were oscillating. I added 0.01 to the offset to bring it up just a hair.. same as you did

Seems good enough for me. The 4.9 sensor so far has held up better than the last one I had.. the last one was an MTX-L w/4.2 sensor that I recalibrated probably 10x. It finally got to where it wouldn't work half the time. New sensor.. rinse, repeat. Then I got the PLX and haven't had any problems since

[realcanuk]

Yep, I was using the gauge that comes with the wideband (in some of the kits), so it doesn't have to be programmed or anything like that. I just stuffed it in the glovebox for the time being but don't really use it after confirming everything matches in HPT

Yeah 2.35V comes out to like 0.99 lambda. 2.5V comes out to 1.02 or so. Point being.. most widebands output roughly 2.5V at stoich, so just getting a proper reading (or close) at stoich isn't enough to confirm it's actually reading right

It sounds like yours is fine though. Mine actually did the exact same thing.. I was reading 0.98 to 0.99 while O2's were oscillating. I added 0.01 to the offset to bring it up just a hair.. same as you did

Seems good enough for me. The 4.9 sensor so far has held up better than the last one I had.. the last one was an MTX-L w/4.2 sensor that I recalibrated probably 10x. It finally got to where it wouldn't work half the time. New sensor.. rinse, repeat. Then I got the PLX and haven't had any problems since

Good to hear, and thanks for the info. I didn't get the gauge with it, as I don't need one. I had a Zeitronix for about 4 years and it was great, no issues. It started acting up a while ago and rather than try and troubleshoot it I just decided a whole new one was easier. I went with the PLX to get the new sensor. It seems to be very accurate and working well, and now I am quite confident that it is correct.

[etm351]

i have used plx on 800+ horsepower cars on gas and e85 it is a good setup, it has a few quirkes like all other but works well and i have seen it work for up too 2 years with no issues drive almost everyday

[schpenxel]

I've got about 5 months of nearly daily driving on mine so far. Not a single issue

Well, ok.. one issue. The little gauge thing is supposed to have a screen that shows reaction time and sensor life remaining.. neither of those screens work on mine for some reason