2000 gmc sierra, has ticking issue, major knock, clogged cat???

[Asylumwarp]

Can someone with some experienced eyes look over my log file, I seem to have a problem that came on after sitting in traffic letting my engine warm up to about 230. I think I may have melted a cat. I don't have a pressure gauge to test the cat, but it may show in the log file. The left side of the engine also developed a weird tick noise, consistant of a backpressure tick ive heard in the past. I have major knock retard going on, as I think the sensors are picking up this noise. I added my tune as well. I have the MAF turned off to see if that was my problem, but it wasn't. At times when I leave a stop light, it has ZERO power due to the knocking. Now I'm seeing its pulling all of my timing. The weird thing is, with clogged cats I have seen no high RPM power. I have my high rpm area still. But sometimes the knock will kick in and pull timing causing the bogging issue. The trucks been tuned for years. Its not the tune. Although lately, I've been pulling timing to help the KR.


Dustin

[Markmx6]

If you have a harbor freight around you, you can pick up a infrared heat sensor for around $20 and measure the temperatures before and after the Catalytic converter. The temperature should be higher AFTER the cat when the engine is warmed up. If the temperature is higher before or equal your cat is dead...

It's not a bad tool to have either way

[Asylumwarp]

Not really the answer im looking for here. I don't give a crap about the cat temps. It's more a clogged blocked melted cat that needs a pressure gauge not a temp gauge. But onto the real problem of the ticking clacking in the engine pulling all the timing. I want someone to watch the log with experienced eyes. Please read in entirety before responding .. Thanks

[Markmx6]

Your not understanding, the cat temps can tell you if the cat is clogged. If the temp is higher before the cat than after it is clogged...

[1duffman]

I haven't looked at your logs or tune but I can tell you it's a clogged cat. I have an 02 Denali and just cleared mine out cuz one was clogged. pull sensor 1 out and start it should make all kinds of noise. put sensor 1 back in and pull sensor 2 and you will probably hear nothing. If you've attempted pushing it as much as you have said then that will be your result, no noise. Everything you have described I have gone through. Clear 'em out or replace them. you shouldn't need anything but a 22mm wrench and a small amount of time to diagnose

[Russ K]

A restricted cat will cause very negative fuel trims. And at WOT, the cyl air will be low. This 2005 6L Silverado had a plugged left side cat. At frame 360, take a look at the negative bank 1 fuel trims. The right fuel trims are very high due to a bad Maf. And the bank 1 LTFT is a lot lower than bank 2 even at steady light load.

Also broken exhaust manifold bolts are very common and will cause exhaust leaks/tick noise. Any knock sensor DTC's?

Russ Kemp

[Jay@HAP]

I can't look at the log file on this computer. What's your MAP@WOT.

On Fords I use the BARO a lot to help determine if the cats are clogged. On a Ford, the PCM sets the BARO@WOT. When I see numbers higher than 155(where I live at (anyway) I have a pretty good idea it has a dead/clogged cat. I use that along with split fuel trims.

On a GM since it sets the BARO KOEO I would only be lead to assume you could look at the MAP@WOT

[Asylumwarp]

I've given up on it. Clogged cat or not, I have a y-pipe with no cats, and a supercharged 6 liter going in it. This motors tired. I think it broke a rocker. Its clackin good from the back of the head now.

[5FDP]

Giving up is the american way.

[Kevoscamaro]

I had an exhaust leak from the manifold made a good clicking sound. Had me thinking it was a rocker. Just a maybe

[Asylumwarp]

Not to resurrect my own topic.. But I didn't give up on it. I pulled the knock from the tune and the engine exploded. So I installed the new engine. Installed the longtubes and y pipe with no cat.. Put a tune in her... Drove her only to find out all the knock came right back. Has major stumble right off idle. Dunno how good deatscherks injectors are... Cant get anymore than 7 degrees of timing.. Was trying to VE tune when I realized it still has the same issue as before. Fuel pressure is good as I have a gauge on it watching it, Vacuum referenced FPR responds with throttle changes.. Has about 52-58 psi while driving. I'm worried the problem is going to toast the new engine as well. The VE table is -1 to about -10 so it shouldn't be acting the way it is. I'm at a loss. Ill post a tune/log/config as soon as I'm near my laptop.

[Asylumwarp]

Attachment 58311
OH, I used all new sensors. Ckps, cps, head temp sensor, new knock sensors, new knock sensor harness. New plugs/wires/fuel filter/injectors are DW 32D-00-0044-8 44lb at 43.5 and should be 53.6 at 58 psi. I have the IFR at 53.6 flatlined due to FPR, and the batt offsets all the same from 0 on.. Cam is custom cam at I .561 E .569, I 216 E 226 LS 115.0. Has a lobe intake centerline installed @ 113.0.
Valve timing as follows
INT OPEN 5- BTDC CLOSE 41 ABDC
EXH OPEN 50 BBDC CLOSE 4- ATDC

Do I need to make transient fuel changes for this cam? It seems I had some popping under low rpm load thru either the intake or exhaust, which timing down low was -9 -15 in some zones so I set those accordingly and the popping went away.. The trucks timing tables kinda suck..
Heres a screenshot of some transient calculator I did, but don't really understand...

I got the DW injector data from DW website .. But they have a batt offset calculator on their site that you punch in your vehicle, part number of injectors, and it spits out offset data.. Data that's different than the PDF file they supply. Strange.. Which data is correct?

[Asylumwarp]

Attachment 58313

Cam Card..
Little rundown on the engine is as follows.. It went from a 5.3 to a 6.0 bored .030 over. So its more like a 6.1 liter. It has 317 Castings that have been ported and IIRC flow 292/215 and got turbulent around .550 lift. I explained that to comp when I had them custom grind the cam for a idle-6000 driver 4x4. Told them I didn't want a crazy idle, or surging in 4low. It idles nice. Its a 9.0:1 motor with forged internals. I have Ferrea Valves, Double springs, Pace setter long tubes and y-pipe with no cats. I was looking for around 450 Crank horses, and I have a procharger p1sc I was going to install, once this engine got running good. But that hasn't happened yet... Wideband going back in the truck tomorrow.

[Asylumwarp]

So heres the tune... Its had some changes made since the drive with all the knock. mainly to the timing table.

The Test3.hpt file is the file I used for the drive log..

Drive3.hpt is the newest file I haven't tried. I changed p101-103 to mil on first error instead of no mil light. not sure if it makes a difference. Also, I know the secondary ve has weird values. Remember this, I'm only taking the truck to 2500 rpm or so. This file is also a reworked timing table of 7 degrees so I don't blow it up.. I cant even get it to run really.

[BRANDON.RYAN]

Does the engine still have egr? I see in the tune its enabled but codes and egr spark correction are diasabled. might be worth a shot if it was deleted

[5FDP]

I would start over with a stock VE table and tune it with a wideband.

Make sure you are not logging anything MAF related in the channels, you don't want to screw up the readings.

The drive3 file's VE table does not look right at all.

[Asylumwarp]

Did you watch the log? I'm not going above 2500 rpm. I increased the whole ve to compensate for the airflow. I know the higher range isn't correct.

[Asylumwarp]

The egr is enabled in the tune due to Smog monitors. Other than that it's been erased from the tune as it is deleted.

[matty b]

IF you put the EGR codes to No error reported, it will set the monitor immediately. I would have no idea if someone would do that to pass the new OBD2 only smog check in CA with a motor that had no chance of passing

[Asylumwarp]

I live in California. We know people. The visual isn't the problem, it's the pcm monitor the obd2 port Smog machine is looking for. That's why it's setup the way it shouldn't be