ZO6 Kicking A**

[POWERZONE]

I have a customer with a 2009 ZO6 30k miles stock beside bolts on and the customer added a new RPM T56 tranny with a mantic 9000 clutch.

Problem is he installed a Fast 102mm and NW 102mm TB but with no tune and went racing. Then the car would start, run for 5mins, then stall on its own. He also took the car to work and the car would not start at all. I recommended that the customer put the stock intake and TB back on until I could look at it and tune it. He did that and was able to drive it. I rode with the customer to do some logging with the stock TB and LS7 intake and everything seemed ok. When we stopped to get gas, after fueling, the car would not start. Finally after about 10 mins he tried it again and the car started.

So the customer tried to put the Fast 102 and 102 TB back on and still the intermittent stalling and non start. The car will start, then die and not start again unless you unhook the negative off the battery, wait a few and plug it back in. No DTC codes.

At this point I go in and change the ETC scalar, no effect, I adjusted the airflow final, MAF, neither made any difference. The car will only start after you unplug the negative battery terminal and restart. I even tried to reset the fuel trims and it will not start.

The customer did tell me that he had codes P0171, P1074 and P0300 at some point.

The key thing is there is no cam, same stock injectors, it does not matter whether you use the stock LS7 intake or Fast 102, it stalls dies and will not restart unless you unplug the battery and wait a few seconds, but it will still eventually die.

I just wanted to see if any of you ZO6 gurus could chime in or something is being over looked. I would not think the fuel pump would be going out after 30K?

Here is the stock tune. I loaded it because regardless of the intake, TB, or tune, its does the same thing with both, starts runs for 5 mins, then dies... Could it be a bad clutch?

[GHuggins]

Sounds like a ground associated issue. Possibly from trans pull? Would explain why "re-arcing" from cable unhook and rehook temporarily fixes it although I would think there would also be starting problems. There is nothing theft or any other sort related to a 5 minuteish time period in the tune that could be off that I'm personally aware of. Could even be internal ecm damage from incorrectly unhooked and rehooked battery cables durring the install to the point where a capacitor, transistor or solder joint is getting hot then loosing connection. I would check else where and if necessary since it's not that altered just plug back in an OE tune and see just what it does. In fact you might want to do that first just to be 100% sure. Then like always, good to check all the basics such as fuel pressure when the problem is present...

Just some thoughts.

[schpenxel]

100% stock fuel system?

[POWERZONE]

The issue was resolved. The wire from the fuel pump to the fuel relay in the engine fuse box was damaged causing an intermittent short to the fuel pump. The wire was repaired, car tuned and customer is happy.

Thanks.