Learning to tune my car for Autocross and NHA HillClimbs

[TBSteck]

I have had a lot of help putting together my base tune for my newly rebuilt engine. No major changes internally, my engine builder just replaced the pistons (one had a hole in it) and there was no need to bore the engine. He also noticed that the values were in need of replacement, besides those replacements nothing else was touched internally.

Because of my previous experience I am extremely gun shy and I want to make sure I start out right and then I want to continue to make adjustments until I feel it is street ready and then I want to get it race ready.

My logs look a little bit odd when it shows 1.9 - 2.1 boost level idling but when you look at the dash display it show nothing (blank is 0). That is suggesting to me maybe my log .cnf files aren't right. I downloaded gmtech16450z .cfg and VCM Editor.cfg files and am using those files. I haven't change out the VCM Scanner.cfg (it wasn't available in the forum I could find), which I think has something to do with the placement of the graphs, so I am still using the stock version for that file. Needless to say my graphs don't fit. Right now that isn't my concern because I'm not really looking at the graph display.

My initial question is: Is there something odd/wrong with my .cfg files that is causing my boost # in the logs not to match my dash display which seems correct - at least at idle. Also do you think there is anything else I should be logging, especially when start to tune a newly built engine?

I attached my one log file that shows the boost levels. I have only attached it so you can see what I mean about the boost level at idle.

Let me know what you think is wrong, thanks.

[JimmyS]

When you have the chart display open, right click and check the chart settings for boost. What do you show there? I'm on my phone now and away from my tuning laptop until tomorrow.

[TBSteck]

I just looked at the Gauges display and the boost is normal (showing 0 at idle and never went above 23 the whole time. The Boost under Gauges is using PID of STK MAPS. But when I look under the Charts display it is using a PID called Boost2. It is a User Defined one. I see that Boost2 is a Function = ([PID.2339]*9.369)-([PID.2340]/6.895-.53 so what is this? I noticed in the documentation (Help file) that you can't make modifications to a User Defined parameter when the log is open. But when I close the log and then go look at the User Defined ones Boost2 is gone under the User Defined list?

Maybe I'll get with GMTech and see if he has an updated version of his .cnf files or if someone else has a version that they would be willing to share and wouldn't mind send me all three .cnf files (see list above). I can't start to tune this car without a good .cnf files.

[JimmyS]

LOG.JPGIt is in the scanner. If you go into the Chart View and then right click on the chart, it will bring up a small window where you can select Chart Settings. Expand chart 2 and then select BOOST. Uncheck the box labeled Enabled. Now select BST-BARO and check the box marked Enabled. Close the window using the red X in the upper right hand corner and save your changes.

Doing this shows your boost at idle as -0.13. On my scanner setup, it shows 98kpa so all you need to do is disable the BOOST in the chart and enable the BST-BARO.

The screen shot above is of your log at idle:

[T-Man]

Do you have the PIDs setup correctly and is the scanner referencing the correct PID? It's not just a matter of using the right config(s). You've got to make sure your self-configured PIDs are setup and attached correctly. Without them, nothing with function the way you want.

[T-Man]

I just looked at the Gauges display and the boost is normal (showing 0 at idle and never went above 23 the whole time. The Boost under Gauges is using PID of STK MAPS. But when I look under the Charts display it is using a PID called Boost2. It is a User Defined one. I see that Boost2 is a Function = ([PID.2339]*9.369)-([PID.2340]/6.895-.53 so what is this? I noticed in the documentation (Help file) that you can't make modifications to a User Defined parameter when the log is open. But when I close the log and then go look at the User Defined ones Boost2 is gone under the User Defined list?

Maybe I'll get with GMTech and see if he has an updated version of his .cnf files or if someone else has a version that they would be willing to share and wouldn't mind send me all three .cnf files (see list above). I can't start to tune this car without a good .cnf files.

This answered my question and you posted it before I finished my last post

You need to configure your own PIDs in order for things to work properly.

Edit - Try these. Simply copy and paste only the string function

boost - ([SENS.30.KPA]-[PID.2340.KPA])/6.984757

low res-boost2 - [PID.2338.PSI]-[PID.51.PSI]

Lambda to AFR(E10 stoich) - [PID.6160]*14.13

intake cam - ([PID.2172]-10)*(-1)

exhaust cam - [PID.2178]-6

[TBSteck]

I was about to go out and log the car for MAF calibration and was watching CSSOB YouTube video on how to do it and I thought I better check this parameter too. This is what I got.
Histogram setting for LT + ST Fuel Trim.JPGUser defined LT + ST Fuel Trims jmh.JPG
Is this one set up correctly? I'm curious if I should eliminate the Filter on the Histogram one, should I?

[TBSteck]

Here are my first two logs I have done (after writing entire to get rid of any residual of the previous tune) and I'm still in the process of calibrating the MAF. What I would like people's input from looking at the logs is 1) Is this still safe to drive easy to get the engine broken in? Currently I have only about 20 miles on the engine and plan to get a lot more as soon as I feel comfortable driving it longer at a time and up to freeway speeds. 2) What in particular in the logs is raising a red flag and what adjustment should be made to get it more in line.

My biggest problem right now is that I see the Chart Display, which is displaying 24 items and most I don't know what is the ideal value we should aim for or the range it should stay within and then if it isn't within these parameters what field(s) in the tune side should be changed and what direction to change it and how much to change it to get it closer to the ideal. This is where I want to learn. so I can make adjustments to my car and do it with confidence. And hopefully some day past on what I have learned to other beginners like myself.

I included my cfg file so you can at least see what I'm seeing. Since the base for this was from another person's cfg file, I'm not sure I have all the custom pid defined correctly but I tried, so what I see might be wrong - like the boost value was initially.

Let me know what you think. And super thanks ahead of time.

[02statesman]

You've posted your tune file instead of your log file.

[TBSteck]

You've posted your tune file instead of your log file.

Thanks ... I now attached the correct files.

[JimmyS]

It looks okay to drive easy to me though you do show a bit of KR (it shows a max of 3* at 215 load and 4000-5500rpm) that you will get ironed out as you move along and get the maf dialed in and move onto fine tuning the spark and fuel.

Hopefully you don't actually have more KR than that. I looked at the tune you posted and you have the max KR capped off at 3* so you could possibly have more than 3* of KR and not know it. Under Spark/Retard, I would leave the max KR per rpm stock (ramping to -12*) and dynamic at the stock -8* but that's just me.

[TBSteck]

Did a couple of more logs (with no changes between them) but these were on the street with traffic. I'm getting close on the MAF even though I haven't studied these logs but probably will be going to 1/2 % paste next. I did noticed there were missing when I would get on it a little, I want to clear that up before I do any WOT plus I need my engine to get a few more miles on it too.

Where do you think the adjustment needs to be to resolve the KR / missing?

I am do a autocross race this weekend - not in the Solstice but with a friends Corvette so my response might be a little light over the weekend. Talk soon ...

[codename Bil Doe]

You're running WAY lean. Idk for certain without checking everything, but I would guess a bad high pressure fuel pump (hpfp). Your lambda should be .87-.88 under boost. You're pretty much at lambda 1. Your fp never exceeds 1200psi. It should be running upwards of 2200psi under boost. Check fp with the key in the on position and the engine off. You should see 60 psi from the tank pump. The hpfp regulator is internal to the hpfp.

If you do a search, there is a range which the hpfp should ohm out at if you probe both connector pins. This is a guess, but I seem to remember it should read 0.3-0.6 ohm. In either case, turn your boost way down (set wgdc table to all 50%) until you get this fixed. The hpfp is real easy to swap if that is the issue.

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR. FIX THE FUEL PRESSURE ISSUE FIRST.

[codename Bil Doe]

I was going to bed and forgot to check, but what is commanded lambda when you're showing almost lambda 1 when boosting? As a ref, I see upwards of 2k psi fp before 10psi of boost.

[JimmyS]

Bill,

Is it possibly because of the ETC%? Only reason I ask is because the logs he posted earlier (2015 05 28 MAF2) shows he is at 2150+psi when the ETC% passes ~95%. Take a look at that log and you'll see what I mean. I'm always learning myself so any information you're willing to provide is always greatly appreciated.

[codename Bil Doe]

I'll have to look closer when I'm back at my pooter. It was a quick guess without looking too closely into it. Shouldn't be changing with just MAF tuning if his fp was good before. MAF is pretty tight up top and off 2.5% at most midrange. Wouldn't cause that issue.

[gmtech16450yz]

DUDE! STOP DRIVING IT!!!!! NOW!!!


Sorry to yell but WTF is going on with your choice of "Tuners"????? Look at this screenshot. 29.5psi boost, your foot is at 32% but the throttle is at 77%, and because of that, you're not even in PE so your Lambda is 1.00!!! Holy crap dude you need to start over with a new tuner and a STOCK LNF file for that car. Do what Bill said to do, cut the boost tables IN HALF or more. DO NOT run ANYTHING over 20psi boost before you get a handle on the rest of that tune. Hell I'd have that boost maxing out at 15psi until I knew I had control over the rest of the engine management. You're driving a car with a new engine and NO CONTROL WHATSOEVER of the engine management.

Again, sorry to yell but WTF? I've stayed away from these couple LNF threads because they kept going in a wrong direction, but geez, after taking a quick look at your log I knew I HAD to say something. I don't know who's helping or not helping you, but my advice is to start over. Drop boost dramatically until you figure this other stuff out. Forged pistons are great, but that engine isn't gonna take a second round of this kind of abuse.

Oh yeah... and 1,271psi commanded fuel pressure at 29.5psi boost?????? The injectors are at 7.3msec at 3800rpm, at 6800rpm they'd probably be twice what they should be. Faaaaakkkk.

[codename Bil Doe]

This just crossed my mind, but are you ABSOLUTELY SURE you flashed the correct tune in? If it's hitting 29psi of boost with 1200psi of fp and 7+ ms of injector timing thats sounds exactly like what you were getting with Term2's tune.

FLASH A BONE STOCK TUNE AND POST A LOG.

[gmtech16450yz]

Ok guys pay attention here... (lol)

I think you ALL are missing something huge here. What was my whole point of the OP's original blown motor thread? TO LOOK AT THE LOGS NOT THE TUNE. I never even looked at his current tune. I looked at the log. For years I've hammered on guys to log both pedal position and throttle position. Look at the spot where the cursor is in my screenshot. Notice anything about pedal vs throttle? What does the E69 use for PE, throttle position or pedal position? I didn't write the code, but everything I've seen tells me that it uses pedal position. THAT'S why I said...

your foot is at 32% but the throttle is at 77%, and because of that, you're not even in PE so your Lambda is 1.00

You can absolutely be heavy into boost and not be in PE with the tune. That's what that screenshot shows, he's in boost but the ecm doesn't see a high enough pedal position to enter PE. I've seen 100% throttle at 40% pedal many times on LNF's. What does that do? It means the engine is running at WOT but the ecm doesn't know it. That screws EVERYTHING up.

The reason he's at 29.5psi with only 1270 rail pressure and 1.00 Lambda is because of the tune. Like I said, I didn't even download his tune so I have no idea why the throttle is so far ahead of the pedal. Maybe somebody has to go back and re-read my original "Most Powerful Table" thread and see what I said about how it effects throttle. I say that not to be a smart ass, but because I honestly can't remember! hahahaha. Any one of a few tables could be making the throttle too far ahead of the pedal. That needs to be fixed so that when you're in boost you're also in PE.

I know my posts are usually super long, but I'm telling you guys you gotta read every word. The devil is in the details for me. I find that a huge percentage of what I type doesn't get read or comprehended. Again, not being a smart ass, I'm sure that's true for what everyone writes. Mike, I never went back to your thread because I was hoping that a huge nugget of knowledge would surface there. It didn't. I said something in that thread and I think you might have been the only one that caught what I meant. I know you caught it because that's why you wanted to leave the forum. It's perfectly OK, we're ALL here to learn, me included. I make some of my best discoveries when I f#ck up! In that thread there were questions being asked and something vital to understanding what everyone sees in a tune was ALMOST being figured out. I say almost because at this point, you and I might be the only ones that learned or know. That bugs me. I don't know why but it does. I'm just weird that way I guess! For me, the coolest thing about these forums is the insatiable thirst for knowledge from so many totally different people with totally different approaches to things. Don't leave, make it better and it will be more rewarding to stay. YOU have the power to make it better in your own thread. I have to say I was a little disappointed when you didn't. Sorry to derail this thread! This doesn't need a reply really.

[T-Man]

I didn't look at logs or tune. Just wanted to help in getting PIDs working properly for better logging ability.