first time tuning a cam. need help. btr stage 3 camaro ls1

[JakeFusion]

This is a good starter guide for Speed Density tuning with a wideband:

http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_edi...to_user_sd.htm

[thebeewantsboost]

thanks jake. i was actually just reading that one. texterror, i guess they may have changed it but i posted it above, definitely said add.

[POWERZONE]

texterror. that is actually one of the guides i was using that had bad information in it. it says to "paste special ADD" your ve error. and only tells you to unplug the maf to enter speed density. which may or may not work but you can possibly lose your iat readings which you need for VE. if anybody wants to straighten that part out. feel free.

If you are using a stock LS1 MAF sensor(78mm) for a gen III that utilizes a remote IAT sensor, then you could disconnect the 3 wire connector at the MAF sensor and still collect data from the remote IAT sensor.

I think what Ed(Mowton) was trying to convey is that if you are using a GM 85mm MAF sensor with a 5 wire connector or MAF of this type, these MAF sensors utilize the IAT element within the MAF sensor and relay the data back to the PCM. So you must leave the connector connected and fail the appropriate engine diagnostic functions and other tables.

Another variation would be if you used a GM 85mm MAF sensor with a 5 wire connector or MAF of this type. You buy a conversion harness to use a remote IAT(like stock), you could use the 3 wire function and use a separate IAT sensor remotely from the MAF sensor. Now in this case, you could disconnect the 3 wires from the MAF and still get your IAT data.

The major point is that you still need to follow instructions as far as the correct engine diagnostic functions and other tables to disable in order to get the fueling to revert to your VE tables and go into speed density.

[thebeewantsboost]

i ended up setting my idle to PE/OL because the fuel trims would always peg out rich +25. i did it per this write up http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...e-(w-pictures) under"Big Cam (lots of overlap) tips, tricks and discussion:" it says too2error.png and i can not for the life of me understand why he is doing that. i understand that its adjusting proportional changes for the o2 sensors but it's in closed loop and why would that have any benefit? any insight? is it just something to do when you are running longtubes? edit: after looking at it more, what he suggests to change that table to is what my stock settings are... i don't get it.

also there's a part where he says to adjust the afr through the scanner while idling to get it to a lean point( where it sounds choppy) and bring it back a little. the sound never changed for me.

[thebeewantsboost]

powerzone. after reading i figured that out. this pcm/engine is alot different than the 3.8 v6 one i became accustomed to. this computer actually doesn't have a maf hz fail on it. so unplugging the maf is my only option. a good thing about this LS platform is that there is a huge following so getting help is definitely easier. appreciate it guys!

[Throttle]

did you say it has no exhaust on it,just long tubes meaning it has open headers?

[thebeewantsboost]

yes throttle. up til today it was just open headers. i had exhaust installed and its amazing how much better it drives. didn't realize the long tubes would skew the cruise ltft like it did. i think i've got it under control for the most part now.

[JakeFusion]

i ended up setting my idle to PE/OL because the fuel trims would always peg out rich +25. i did it per this write up http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...e-(w-pictures) under"Big Cam (lots of overlap) tips, tricks and discussion:" it says too2error.png and i can not for the life of me understand why he is doing that. i understand that its adjusting proportional changes for the o2 sensors but it's in closed loop and why would that have any benefit? any insight? is it just something to do when you are running longtubes? edit: after looking at it more, what he suggests to change that table to is what my stock settings are... i don't get it.

also there's a part where he says to adjust the afr through the scanner while idling to get it to a lean point( where it sounds choppy) and bring it back a little. the sound never changed for me.

He's setting the O2 proportional to the same as idle proportional. It may help.

[thebeewantsboost]

after adjusting the base idle air flow and putting the idle in PE/OL. the car doesn't want to stay running from a cold start. if i pedal it and get it to warm. up a little it idles great. any ideas?

[JakeFusion]

You may need to tweak your OLFA table under Fuel>Open Loop/Closed Loop.

Add some fuel to it. Try these settings:

68 86 104 122 140 158
20 1.030 1.010 1.010 1.020 1.009 1.010
25 1.040 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.018 1.010
30 1.040 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.009
35 1.050 1.030 1.020 1.020 1.020 1.009
40 1.060 1.040 1.027 1.030 1.017 1.018
45 1.070 1.046 1.040 1.040 1.030 1.018
50 1.080 1.060 1.055 1.040 1.030 1.018
55 1.090 1.060 1.052 1.040 1.030 1.022
60 1.100 1.070 1.052 1.040 1.030 1.017
65 1.120 1.086 1.061 1.051 1.030 1.024
70 1.140 1.112 1.084 1.051 1.027 1.020
75 1.164 1.120 1.086 1.060 1.040 1.020
80 1.169 1.130 1.087 1.060 1.042 1.020
85 1.170 1.130 1.087 1.060 1.042 1.020
90 1.170 1.130 1.087 1.060 1.042 1.020
95 1.170 1.130 1.087 1.060 1.042 1.020
100 1.170 1.140 1.087 1.060 1.042 1.030

[thebeewantsboost]

thanks, i did that and went back through the idle setup and adjusted startup airflow initial and start up airflow decay. it helped quite a bit.

does it look like bank 1 has a dying o2 sensor, or could it be an exhaust leak? the o2 bottoms out and flat lines and the fuel trims go crazy. the damn exhaust shop put the new exhaust inside of my headers instead of over it so the band clamps i had ordered don't fit right. not sure whats going on ;/