05 gmc 1500 5.3

[czipar27]

hello, i am new to tuning with hp tuners and new to electronic tuning. i have spent many years "under the hood." i have done some work to this tune but i can not figure out why the lower rpm range performance remains the same. upper rpm the truck seams alive but lower rpm it seams to be a dog. i would at least like to be able to break the tires loose from a standstill. mind you this is a stock truck as well.
my questions are is this achievable with a stock truck?
if so were is it that i should start?
i will have my tune uploaded so you can view it, changes i have made so far are tire size,shift speed,line psi, and % of max available torque

any help or input is greatly appreciated!!

stock_tune_raised_shift_psi1_time_tire_size_tq_mng.hpt

[5FDP]

Those 3.42 gears arent the biggest help here but it can still break em looose.

Make sure you are in advanced view, just so you can see everything table that can be changed.

What I will recommend here is just so the truck isnt such a dog right away, it will not harm anything and these changes are made all the time. Once you learn more you will understand them alot more.

Under Fuel > Power Enrich, there are several tables that tell the truck to enter performance enrichment mode aka get the lead out.

Under PE ENABLE, set the enable torque to 80% because you took away some torque management.

Set the throttle % for HOT/COLD to something like 75% instead of 90%. Stock 90% just is way too high in my eyes for a NA motor.

Set the enrichment ramp in rate to 1.0000, that table just tells the computer how quickly it wants the fuel to get there, you'd rather have it be there now instead of a delay.

And lastly set the RPM DELAY to 1,500-2,000 rpm. The stock 5,000 rpm holds it back alot.

Also, under the the TM tab > ETC Limits, set the ETC TPS Max to 100% for every single cell. That will allow the throttle to be at 100% whenever the computer and you want it to.

[5FDP]

Oh and, I personally think you did to many adjustment to the shift pressures.

The 4L60e isnt very strong, I would return to stock and just add 10% to be safe. Lower the shift times to .300 instead to give it nice clean/quick shifts.

[czipar27]

thank you very much for the reply. i will be re-flashing tomorrow (after i put rear breaks in a jeep ) with all of your suggestions. and this makes sense. it is in a sense un-governing the engine and not depriving it of fuel when it wants it.? correct me if im wrong.

also, is their much to be gained in the air/timing section with a stock 5.3/4.8?

[czipar27]

with older trans. i was always taught to an extent that when pulling line psi. helps the trans. buy keeping the fluid moving and cool. (and i like a nice firm shift )
is it really that harmful to them?

[czipar27]

also, is the tq management around the area that it shout be?

[5FDP]

They do run rich from the factory, literally all cars/trucks do, to save their ass in a way.

You can lean it out, but only so much without a wideband to monitor real time AFR readings. They tend to be around low 11's, which is great for a boosted motor and not so much NA. Going to around 12.0 is still safe and running 89+ octane always seems to help reduce knock if there is any. I'd not change those tables untill you know how to understand how these computers control fueling.

As for the pressures, I'm no expert at all with internal temps and if less pressure will increase or decrease trans temps. But I just know that the 4L60e can only handle so much before they want to break. I've just found on the stock trans that going down in shift times and increasing the shift pressures by 10% or so, that that is the best route without having to worry about hurting it.

Buying a $20 corvette servo is the other best upgrade for the 4L60e, best money hands down that you can spend on one. Oregon performance transmissions is where I buy all mine.

[czipar27]

i would like to run a wide band so that i can tune afr. i have the pro version but im not sure what sensor to buy, hoe to wire it up, or if using a tail pipe extintion will work instead of drilling and welding a bung into the exhaust. this way it can also go car to car. but is it reliable for road testing?
i do apologize for the simple questions but i need to build my knowledge on a good firm base.
thanks

[5FDP]

I run a AEM wideband, it works just fine in my eyes. There are others out there for around the same price point, anywhere from 160-250 for a decent wideband.

You will want it installed before the cat converters, so welding in a bung is the only way to do it. They all have instructions for wiring and doing a few minutes of research on here will show up threads on how to make them work with the pro version.

[czipar27]

thank you for the help. one last question, what about timing in these 5.3's? is it beneficial to bump it up?

[5FDP]

That just depends on if the motor thinks it's okay.

It's all trial and error. The more mods you have done, the more air it could flow in and out and you might get away with a few degrees more timing.

[czipar27]

do i just watch for knock and advance it until i see knock? then retard the timing back where the knock appears? or advance it only in certain areas of the map?

[czipar27]

stock_tune_fuel_test.hpt

ok i changed the tune up a little more, im still in search of more power and more fuel mpg. any input would be appreciated! thanks