LNF running like crap

[kissmy05ss]

My friend's lnf is running like crap. We built the motor last year when the other let go. Had a local guy tune it. We know he's really good with the lsx tuning. And, are in no way here to bash him. So, I copied the tune and logged it. Still learning the ropes. Figured you guys could help.

Mods;
crazy steve intercooler
zzp lower cp
dejon upper cp
zzp stg 2 cams
zzp 82# valve springs
wiseco pistons
zzp rods

The car has ran great for a while. Just recently started acting up. And I've tried everything I can to diagnose it as a mechanical issue. Everything is good so far.

Thank you for your help in advance

[codename Bil Doe]

LSX and LNF tuning are apples and unicorns. Different universes. I came from LSX, too.

[codename Bil Doe]

Stock turbo? Whomever tuned it did a really bad job and is trying to boost it to the moon. If it's a stock K04 it becomes a heat pump above 24psi. Too many things are wrong with the tune. I would suggest reading as much on LNF threads as you can on here. Also, start over on the tune. Some suggestions when you're ready to modify the stock tune:

1. All 5 intake cam tables the same (base - main cold, main hot, cat - cold, cat hot, knock). Search LNF cam tables

2. All 5 exhaust cam tables the same.

3. Search LNF PE. Your PE is wrong and ridiculously low. DI motors aren't port injection.

4. If you don't have a cat, set the COT lambda B1 to all 1's. Right now it's still active and probably running at .5-.6 lambda in a full 4th gear pull.

5. Set all main spark tables equal to each other (one table copied 4 times).

6. Search and read on LNF Optimum Spark tables. GMTech has a great writeup on it. I did a followup based on his info. They should all be the same. All 4 of yours are different.

7. Whomever modified the WGDC max has no idea what it does. It's a percentage multiplier similar to a higher urgency affect. Setting it above 100% is not necessary and causes multiplier issues.

8. Depending on what you want to boost to and what turbo you have, 100% WGDC is way too high. On the stock K04 a flatline 23psi can be achieved with high 70's & low 80's WGDC at 100% pedal and scaled down from there.


That's just taking a quick peak at your tune. I'm sure your tuner friend had good intentions, but the LNF isn't an engine you can just throw random numbers at and hope it works. You can do a lot of damage to the engine and potentially yourself with WOT conditions at idle and during normal cruise if you don't understand what changes you are making. I would suggest starting from scratch with a stock tune and modifying it only after you've done enough reading to understand how the ECU and gas (torque) pedal actually work in conjunction to produce an output. It's not an LS. Hope that helps some.

[Knightwolf]

I'm no pro like most of these guys.. but I looked at this tune file, and it is total WHACK! Lol
Flash it back to stock, and start from scratch is what I'd do.. most of those changes are so incorrect, I'm surprised it ran great for a while. From a brief glance, everything is wrong.. even prop gain, int gain, derivative, which I'm surprised have been adjusted since most don't...

What Bil Doe has said here is great.. start with that.. Lambda for the LNF is between .86 and .88 at WoT. Making your tables have similar curves will make the car run smoother since all of these tables work in conjunction with one another. I'm sure there's some base tables kicking around here somewhere that you could at least start with and they'd be better than this junk you have now.. didn't even bother looking at the log..

Do Maf calibration last.. I wish there was an easy way to do it because it's what I have the most troubles with LoL My atmospheric pressure and general weather conditions are constantly changing up here making an accurate one be virtually impossible :/

[MikeM173]

Bill I don't normally agree with you but I would hold off on the changes you recommended. I would start with a stock tune and then I would watch the videos that CSSOB have up. After making those first initial table changes that kind of teach you the absolute basics of the LNF, I would then start reading all I could about your suggestions and I wouldn't make all of the changes at once otherwise you'll have no clue what did what. It's going to take a long time before you figure everything out. That's even with the write-ups that me, Bill and GmTech have wrote up. It would be a lot longer if not for CSSOB putting so much together.

Sorry Bill, we always see eye to eye.

[codename Bil Doe]

Damn you for agreeing with me! I should have prob said the "don't stock touch shit ever" part in bigger letters and at the beginning lol.

Even once I learned everything from all the other great tuners on here Idk how many times I messed with a new table, thought hmm wonder what this would do, and ended up with an omg moment.

This is NOT an LS ECU

[MikeM173]

Bill I apologize. I read your post yesterday but didn't have time to respond until today. I definitely should have re-read all of it again before posting haha.

[codename Bil Doe]

TBH I was posting as I went through it until I started thinking oh my. Oh no no.

[kissmy05ss]

Thanks for the help guys. When I looked at the log and the tune I knew it was screwed. Looks like I'm going to be doing this for him now. I'll keep this thread updated. Hopefully we can get this thing squared away.

[08VRSS]

Holy hell on the tune file....... Some weird stuff going on in there for sure, start from stratch.

[MikeM173]

This is the first time I have pulled up a tune for someone other then a customer to help out. Usually I let others look and put in some advice and then I just give out a little knowledge sometimes. I can tell you already that this thing pulls timing like crazy for absolutely no reason. As for the PID tables they took a different approach then I do, so I can't comment on if they are effective or not, but I would think not. What I can't figure out is where you got the numbers for your MAP sensors and also why you have no changes to your MAF calibration. There is hardly anything changed in areas that should be changed. This thing most likely idles like complete garbage, and boosts like crap in my opinion without even looking at the log. Please do me a favor and do not use this anymore. Just park the car, watch CSSOB's files to get you some baseline numbers. After that move on. Sorry to be blunt.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Start from here man....its got stock timing values but you shouldn't be raising it until the rest of the system is settled in anyways.
disconnect your evap purge solenoid on the manifold and turn its codes off while tuning. it will stabilize the results.

this tune file is turned down some because its meant to be a base starting point.

[kissmy05ss]

you guys are awesome. no worries about being blunt. that gets the best results.

[MikeM173]

Well I'm glad you have an open mind on all of this. CSSOB definitely deserves a lot of credit for helping people. He offers stuff like above and took time to make the videos etc and literally for nothing. I feel me and others have done a lot to help the community but he has offered more then anyone else in my opinion. Remember the videos and links he has put together will get you started but it'll take a lot of work to figure out the ECU from there. A lot of trial and error. You'll learn all the basics from what he put together.