Please take a look at my tune. LS6 H/C/I Lt's

[jpandes]

Hi Guys,

I am new to tuning using HPT. I got sick of paying tuners to do a half-ass job. What's with only tuning for WOT and partial throttle? I finally broke down and bought HPT Pro and an AEM WB so that I fix my pig-rich and hanging idle. I am taking baby-steps only messing with the idle cells so that I don't blow my motor.

I have been searching and reading, a lot. I also just bought Banish's book and DVD. This is where I think I may have uncovered a problem. I think the injector data used in my tune is wrong. At least it doesn't match the data from Banish's DVD.

I have made a few tweaks to my tune.
1) Enabled STIT and leaned out the idle cells on my VE table. The idle no longer goes to 10.8 AFR at idle.
2) Disabled Throttle Cracker below 55mph to get rid of the hanging. The idle is still a little high, but much better
*Now my AFR at WOT is too rich, 10.8-11.3. Before, I made changes, WOT AFR was right at 12.99-13.00.

Here is a list of my mods:

228/232 115+4 LSA
AFR 205 heads
FAST 90/90 Intake and T
AR 1 7/8" Long-Tube Headers
Vararam CAI
UD Pulley
30# SVO Injectors (Red Top)

I am just not that knowledgeable on how all of these settings are interrelated (yet).
Would you guys mind taking a look at my tune and log file?




IMG_3458.JPGIMG_3456.JPG

LS6 with HeadsCamLTs.hpt
rich idle.hpl

[charcoal03silvy]

The backbone of a good idle is proper VE calibration and base running airflow. Also proper injector data is critical.

IMO, idle is the last thing to be tuned. Get the part throttle fueling dialed in, then go after the idle. If you try to do idle first, then fueling, you'll start chasing your tail.

After looking at the tune.. your VE table needs A LOT of work. it looks stock beyond 1200 rpm. If i were you, i would download a stock ls1 file and start over from scratch.

This is an excellent resource: http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...tricks-373848/

[charcoal03silvy]

FWIW, i have tuned a 4.8 with a bigger cam than yours and didn't have to touch the throttle follower or cracker. Just proper fueling and base running airflow. The only time it ever would start to surge at all would be in reverse with the steering wheel turned all the way.

[jpandes]

charcoal03silvy,


Thank you for taking the time to look at my tune and for attaching the link. I appreciate it. I can't believe that i paid for that tune. I had it in the car for over a year. The only thing that I wanted fixed was the stinkin' rich idle that hung at 1800 rpm when coasting. I assumed that part throttle and WOT was ok. I guess I will have to retune my car from scratch.

Happy New Year!

John

The backbone of a good idle is proper VE calibration and base running airflow. Also proper injector data is critical.

IMO, idle is the last thing to be tuned. Get the part throttle fueling dialed in, then go after the idle. If you try to do idle first, then fueling, you'll start chasing your tail.

After looking at the tune.. your VE table needs A LOT of work. it looks stock beyond 1200 rpm. If i were you, i would download a stock ls1 file and start over from scratch.

This is an excellent resource: http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...tricks-373848/

[charcoal03silvy]

If that is the tune that was on it when it left the shop I'd be absolutely furious.

[jpandes]

Damn it! It looks like most of my tune was left stock! Those bastards at TPS Moptorsports in San Jose, CA tuned my car with stock values. It looks like they didn't even adjust the injector flow rates. I am just glad that my motor didn't blow at the track days. I am wondering how the car ran at all??? I guess I have to start from scratch.
my tune left stock.jpg

[PICNIC_GEORGE]

That's terrible. Did they touch the MAF?

I'd start with the stock ls6 VE table, rescale the injectors and dial in your ve from there.

[eficalibrator]

Start from a known (STOCK) file. Enter your known changes (injector data) and solve for the steady state air models (MAF and VE independently) as shown in the DVD. Start in the middle (part load) and work out (idle, WOT) from there. If you get these right, you might be surprised how little else needs adjustment. Good luck with your project!

[jpandes]

Start from a known (STOCK) file. Enter your known changes (injector data) and solve for the steady state air models (MAF and VE independently) as shown in the DVD. Start in the middle (part load) and work out (idle, WOT) from there. If you get these right, you might be surprised how little else needs adjustment. Good luck with your project!

Greg,

Thanks for the reply! Your videos have been a godsend.

John

[jpandes]

That's terrible. Did they touch the MAF?

I'd start with the stock ls6 VE table, rescale the injectors and dial in your ve from there.

I have no idea if they adjusted the MAF. Thanks for the reply. Back to the drawing board for me.

[jpandes]

OK, so I have gone back to stock parameters except for the 30# injector data. After flashing it into my car, I get "Reduced Engine Power". The car just sounds BAD. What am I doing wrong here???

Banish DVD.cfg
Reduced Engine Power.hpl
NEW TUNE - 30lb_Inj_offset_short pulse adder stock ve v2 OL EQ1 v2 Data.hpt

[Mudweizer]

Reduced Engine Power.hplReduced Engine Power.hplNEW TUNE - 30lb_Inj_offset_short pulse adder stock ve v2 OL EQ1 v2 Data.hpt

OK, so I have gone back to stock parameters except for the 30# injector data. After flashing it into my car, I get "Reduced Engine Power". The car just sounds BAD. What am I doing wrong here???

Tune the VE and MAF tables, stock setting is just a good starting point.

Your original VE table was screwy.

[jpandes]

Tune the VE and MAF tables, stock setting is just a good starting point.

Your original VE table was screwy.

That was my goal, to start from scratch. I attempted to return all tables to stock, input all of the 30lb injector data, set the tune to Open loop and then go for a drive to log some data. The DIC immediately showed "Reduced Engine Power" and sounded horrible. I didn't even try to go for drive.

[Mudweizer]

Start off tuning the VE in the driveway, same with MAF when you get to it. Have you tried using real time tuning? It makes life so much easier with a wideband.

[SSUte01]

Can't view tune or log here but are you tuning SD when you get REP? And being LS6 I presume ETC? If yes, are you getting P1514/0068 when you're getting REP?

[Mudweizer]

Highlight the whole VE table and add 8 to all the cells, should get you close. You're at 18.6 to 1, kinda lean. (Use the RTT OS for instant results)

[jpandes]

Thanks for the tip about RTT! I converted my tune to 1-bar SDD and tried RTT. Thanks! I added 8 across the board and now the idle AFR is 16.x-17.x and I am not seeing REP. Now, i just need to sort out RTT.

My Scanner crashes with an Error message stating that the "object referenced is not set ..."

[Mudweizer]

Thanks for the tip about RTT! I converted my tune to 1-bar SDD and tried RTT. Thanks! I added 8 across the board and now the idle AFR is 16.x-17.x and I am not seeing REP. Now, i just need to sort out RTT.

My Scanner crashes with an Error message stating that the "object referenced is not set ..."

Post your RTT .hpt file

[AdsoYo]

pm sent

[jpandes]

I am so frustrated. I feel like giving up! I finally figured out how to get Real Time Tuning (RTT) to work. You have to click on the "play" icon to load the tables into RAM before you can make adjustments. That's after you Enable RTT and flash your PCM... But, now I still am stuck. I have been trying to follow Greg Banish's DVD. I can't get the MAF_Lambda_err histogram to show up. The scanner says its not supported... So, I can't tune the MAF.

I tried using RTT to adjust my VE table in open loop. I am lost. This sucks.

Banish DVD.cfg
REP MAF diabled.hpl
NEW TUNE - OPEN LOOP VE +8 (SD RTT).hpt