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Thread: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Big Cam Tuning Help

  1. #1

    2010 Camaro SS A6 Big Cam Tuning Help

    Pretty new at tuning and im trying to dial in a tune for my new cam 230/[email protected] 278/297 - .625/.625 lift 113 LSA. I have the car holding idle between roughly 775-850. It coughs and bucks on start up before it gets up there to holding idle and if i shift it into gear it'll die down and sometimes kill the engine looking for any tips/help/etc on getting it running better. Currently running open headers and holding it in open loop.
    Mods - Cam (specs above), UDP pulley, TB spacer, CAI, 1-7/8 longtubes
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  2. #2
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Did you change the converter? If you're trying to run that cam with a stock converter it'll never work.

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  3. #3
    No I didnt. Manufacturer said it would run on a stock converter

  4. #4
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    What manufacturer told you a 230/250 cam would work with a stock converter? They're out of their mind.

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  5. #5
    Senior Tuner mowton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    What manufacturer told you a 230/250 cam would work with a stock converter? They're out of their mind.


    It'll run, just wont stop.....
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by mowton View Post


    It'll run, just wont stop.....
    Yep........but it will ET quicker with a loose stall.

    I'm running 227/243 .614/.624 113+2 on my stock stall. When I roll to a stop I generally slip into neutral.

    Calvin............I hope you have reverse lockout on your shift pattern and strong calve muscles. LOL!
    Last edited by Speedforhire; 10-19-2014 at 10:08 AM.

  7. #7
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    If you can tune decent low end drivability with that cam and a stock converter, we will change your title from "Potential Tuner" to "Senior Tuner". In the mean time you may want to get a higher stall converter as suggested above by those with the latter title.
    SOLD - 2005 C6 6.0 LS2,TF 235 heads, 245/255 .630 113 LSA cam, LS7 lifters, YT 1.7 RR, FAST 102 LSXR, VMax 90-102mm, VMax CNC ported TB, LS7 injectors, Dewitts radiator, Manley 7.550 pushrods, LS7 fuel pump, PowerBond 25% UD pulley, RPM stage 2 '06+ 4:10 rear end, Callaway CAI, 160* thermostat, HP Pro custom tune, LG Pro headers

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  8. #8
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mowton View Post


    It'll run, just wont stop.....
    LOL Ain't that the truth.

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  9. #9
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedforhire View Post
    Yep........but it will ET quicker with a loose stall.

    I'm running 227/243 .614/.624 113+2 on my stock stall. When I roll to a stop I generally slip into neutral.

    Calvin............I hope you have reverse lockout on your shift pattern and strong calve muscles. LOL!
    You have considerably less overlap, even though the numbers sound fairly close. Depending on what lobes you're each using. Even so, I wouldn't want to drive that cam with a stock stall. Either of them.

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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    ..............You have considerably less overlap..............
    That's why I chose it. I've managed to get it tamed enough where it's not too bad at a stop.

    I'll be going bigger next Spring and perhaps a new stall then as well.

  11. #11
    Looks like I'll be ordering a stall lol.
    I heard that I can tune the slip in the tcc to make the car idle better In gear. But no one else seems to know about it? Don't wanna go based on one persons assumption and ruin a trans.

  12. #12
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calvinespree View Post
    Looks like I'll be ordering a stall lol.
    I heard that I can tune the slip in the tcc to make the car idle better In gear. But no one else seems to know about it? Don't wanna go based on one persons assumption and ruin a trans.
    TCC slip is irrelevant at idle. It does nothing to loosen the converter. The TCC only locks at speed. You need to look at the converter and the converter clutch as two completely separate entities. They really have nothing to do with each other, besides the fact they're in the same case.

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  13. #13
    Thanks for the info. I have it running and driving without stalling out. Stiff brakes as I expected but it'll do until I can get a new converter in.

  14. #14
    Calvin.........try lowering your "Idle Speed Min vs. VSS" to the absolute minimum that will keep it running while the vehicle is moving, when your rolling to a stop. You can set the "0.0" mph column to your standard "Target Idle Speed" to keep it from stalling once you've stopped. Remember, the "Enable RPM Error" is a variance. If it's set to "50" then you have a +/- that is a total of 100. So, set all of your tables accordingly.

    BTW! I'm old school - I don't mind the shake, rattle & roll. I can't even hold my '68 when it's in gear. LG!

  15. #15
    Senior Tuner SultanHassanMasTuning's Avatar
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    if your running high vacuum at idle and in gear, yes it will be uncomfortable. a small remedy is installing a pump to have more vacuum so you can stop
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  16. #16
    Car is idling better still have a little more fine tuning to work on. One problem i have is that if i put it in gear and ease on to the gas it just stalls out. If i give it quite a bit of throttle it'll "take off" without stalling but its not suitable to drive around on the street when i have to hit it that hard to move without stalling. Any tips on what i can do to fix this?
    Current Tune Below
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