need Ford 30# injector info, trying to fix jerking/bucking while cruising

[MikeOD]

Also, the EQ ratio in the open loop tables in the PCM is the opposite of Lambda. 0.93 should be lean, 1.07 should be rich. If you've got 0.93 in the open loop table, but you're seeing 750+ on the narrow band sensors, your VE and MAF tables need work.

[AdsoYo]

Also, the EQ ratio in the open loop tables in the PCM is the opposite of Lambda. 0.93 should be lean, 1.07 should be rich. If you've got 0.93 in the open loop table, but you're seeing 750+ on the narrow band sensors, your VE and MAF tables need work.

Yeah I got that about lambda and eq being opposites. Not confusing at all! And I was hoping that wasn't the case about my VE/MAF tables. It's probably VE though. When I drove around in closed loop/ MAF only, LTFT's were at 0/-1.5 and didn't change much. But with the VE table, everything was between 0 and -5 back in October when I dialed it in. Since then I've revisited it 3 times as it's gotten colder and the numbers are as low as -15.

[AdsoYo]

Spent an afternoon with the car and ve/maf tables looked great. Do people who run open loop adjust their tune for the seasons or something? Like a summer and winter file?

Also I have a question about closed loop. Is there some way to command the PCM to not adjust the fuel as much for a given O2 sensor value? Similar to "idle overspeed" and "idle underspeed" but for the O2's?

EDIT 12/2/14: Found the answers to these questions. In order to avoid creating open loop tunes for each season, there's a table under engine->airflow->general->cylinder charge temperature->bias. This handy little guy lets you adjust how much the PCM takes into account intake air temperature and engine coolant temperature when determining fuel mixture. So when you get your VE table nailed down on a warm day and the PCM perceives a rich condition on a cold day, you adjust this table to bias towards engine coolant temperature to lean the mixture back. Cool!

For the O2's, there are tables under fuel->open & closed loop->closed loop proportional->airflow mode and O2 error. Still playing with these but so far after taking 30% out of the airflow mode table and adding 10% to O2 error, I'm seeing good results.

[Dogsgogrr]

Greetings from Western Australia AdsoYo.

In your posts you've mentioned mentioned doing a 24x conversion, swapping pcms, popping noises and bucking/jerking. I swapped PCM while getting my original PCM unlocked but did not do a 24x conversion.

While tuning I experienced similar popping noises and bucking/jerking.

Qn: After the 24x conversion and PCM swap/s did you do a "Case Learn" procedure?

Reason I ask is because during further reading I learned I should have done a "Case Learn" procedure upon fitting the 2nd PCM.

This is required whenever installing another pcm, replacing/converting crank and camshaft timing sensors, after a rebuild etc. In brief during "case learn" the ECU learns the precise timing adjustments needed to allow for engine wear, slight variations of sensor position and crank/camshaft timings relative to each other.

I performed the "Case Learn" (must be done absolutely to the letter per HP Tuners Help) on my LS1 and all popping / mild backfires and bucking / jerking all but vanished.

My Cam is VCM7 232/234 590/596 [email protected] with 112 seperation so the bucking / jerking while trying to cruise at low-mid revs and light throttle was quiet a pest.

[AdsoYo]

After 24x I had a P1336 and check engine light indicating that the case relearn needed to be performed. Did that with hptuners and it got rid of the code and light but didn't change anything as far driveability for me. I wish it would've been that easy! Glad it worked for you though