Ok I added the 5%, can I do the idle scan still in the morning when its cold I would think so since the maf isn't hitting the 5k+ cells during idle? Also I heard that its bad idea to tune stft's immediately after filling up? Which is a problem seeing as I need to get gas int he morning. Is there any merit to that? Sounds a little weird to me....
Roger that on the cold starts, although I have no issues right now, car starts up every time cold with no problem ac on or off.
the timing tables are solid. 24 degrees is plenty safe for an ls motor. you may be able to squeeze more but you would need to log to see if there is knock retard.Originally Posted by rpturbo
You heard right. The charcoal canister traps more gas fumes during fill up, so drive around for 5-10 mins after refueling before scanning. Sure, do the cold start idle scan in the morning.
Russ Kemp
On the iac thing, I can't just them to that if need be but I haven't been having and startup issues with it set at 30 now should I still bring it down
Ok got the idle scan done I took all of the values in the histogram and then added .2 to them across the table just for a bit of cushion. Heading to the gas station and will do some final maf scanning this afternoon.. It still free falls though on clutch in and coasting. I'll get a scan of what its doing with the correct pids today. In the mean time do you see anything I could change to help that? I was thinking of adding some to the rolling ariflow table and maybe cutting down on follower/ upping TC?
idle config nw 102.hpl
O2pewterz28-1 test tune 2 hpt.hpt
For some reason, the LTIT isn't moving. So I made a few changes to your latest tune. And added to the running idle airflow adder table as that is used when you push the clutch in. I would raise the idle speed to the way I had it in the first tune I did for you.
Is there a reason why all the evap DTC'c are set to no error reported?
Russ Kemp
Ok 900 rpm gets rid of all the lope though! haha but if it must be done then it shall be. and the evaps are off because evap is gone. The small canister by the intake sprung a leak and to boot didn't have a mounting place on the fast so i just deleted it and put a breather on the hose.
Should I redo the idle air config then since the ltit didnt move? I was told to 0 out adaptive idle in the tune when doing the config so that maybe why the ltit didnt move?
log with test tune 3.hpl MAF stft.hst
hey Russ I loaded in that tune on my way to school and took this log. I was mainly doing it to calibrate the maf but it also showed some problems the car is having holding idle. The good news is that rolling idle air fixed clutch in its just that if you just pop the clutch and pull out of gear to coast it will free fall. Also when coming to a stop the car will just fall on its face and either die or come very close. I'm thinking of slowing the decay rate or open TC up a little.
I attached the log but for some reason I cant get the histo for the maf to work on mine. I made a new one just for stft's since thats what i logged only but idk...
EDIT: Nevermind I wasnt paying attention and logged the avg fuel values instead of sae so i'll take another one on the way home. but the log file should still be good for observing the stalling issues.
Last edited by 02pewterz28; 10-11-2014 at 01:21 PM.
log 2 nw 102.hpl
O2pewterz28-1 test tune 4 with cracker.hpt
sorry for the multiple posts... on the way home i tweaked the tune a bit, added some cracker and slowed the decay of a couple things. didnt seem to do much clutch in is fine but just pulling out of gear releasing it will cause a free fall. still looked a little lean with the maf log below so on my next tweak i added 3% more to those tables in the 6500-7k range and I'm calling it good i think? Unless you all dont think so?
here's my new tune the changes in the follower & cracker are there but they didnt do much. i added .2 more g of airflow to get my stit's slightly more negative as they would be positive now and then. That seemed to work and the ltit is right at -1 g/sec. I think thats acceptable?
Ok, I had to lower the RAF table back to the way it was. -1 g/sec LTIT is close enough as your adapts will go to +-3 g/sec. Also added .5 g/sec to the running idle airflow adder table. The cracker air won't help you as it's only active with the clutch out. The follower air also goes to zero very fast when the clutch is pushed it. So the only table to fix the idle dropping when the clutch is pushed in, is the running airflow adder table. Keep adding .5 g/sec at time until the idle doesn't drop (or hang) when pushing in the clutch.
Also added to the Maf table up to 7625 Hz, as your fueling was still too lean.
Russ Kemp
Cool Russ thanks. I actually got it pretty good right now. My problem wasn't with clutch in that was all good. Sorry if there was confusion. The issues I was having is say your cruising down the road at 50 in the 2000 rpm range. Then you stab the clutch pull out of gear and release the clutch to coast in nuetral, there was my free fall problem. So I logged and indeed found that the TC was decaying very fast I cut that down more and also the TF a bit. Now my idle falls just like it should. I will put in your changes though and keep logging the maf after applying your changes.
The other issue I had which may be corrected now but I'll have to see. Is that when turning into a parking space or backing out and cutting the wheel the car will try to or even succeed in dying. I bumped up the accessory torque load under tq management and also copied the under spark tables from a stock yukon which had a little more padding in them. Other than that though idk what else to try have you seen that before?
When I get home later I'll upload that tune with your changes for you to look over
Thanks again Russ
O2pewterz28-1 test tune 4 with timing and cracker.hpt
heres what i ended up at. doing some more testing to see what happens. does everything in here look ok?
From that tune I had to add another .5 to both the cracker and rolling table...for some reason it didn't like it when I went for another drive. The .5 made it hang around 1100 though so I'll make another adjustment in the am.
I also finished the maf got it all more or less in the slightly negatives so I'll post that up also later on. Russ your maf files were spot on with just a hair adjustment!
For the life of me though I can't get parking down. If I go to back out of a space and have to pedal the clutch or even just free rev in park it will just die. I think it's because TC zeros out at 1mph should I lower it to 0? But I think that may cause the idle to hang coming to a stop? This should be in the logs up above but if not I have one I'll upload
well i did some more testing...I got the idle to settle back normal when cruising with the a/c off. however when i turn the ac on and repeat the same procedure the idle will dip or die. so thats one small issue. for the life of me though i cant get this damn thing to stop wanting to stall backing out of a space with a quick throttle blip or pedaling of the clutch. i'm starting to think with the cam and 33lb clutch that it may just not be possible?
I've messed with follower cracker and anything else I can think of and its just not happening. Its really ticking me off lol.
Heres the tune thats in it now. I raised the idle to 900, then had to add some raf to compensate for this. This made the condition better but still not perfect. sometimes its perfect then others it just craps out. I tried messing with the follower multiplier and decay values... Havent touched delay though yet......
OK, I know all about light weight clutches/flywheels in a street car. I was talked into an aluminum Fidenza flywheel when I installed a 418 stroker into my 2001 ZO6. I had a hunting idle, stalling, trans gear rattle in neutral. I tuned it for 2 months, then I installed the stock flywheel, now all my issues are fixed and I like driving my car again.
So I made some more changes to your tune. Note that raising the throttle follower decay tables like you had it speeds up the decay. So I set them down to 25% of stock to slow down the throttle follower decay. Also made some changes to the follower airflow & running airflow adder tables. Leave the throttle cracker tables alone as they are only active in gear with the clutch out.
I also raised the idle adapt offset coefficient to speed up the time that the LTIT's adjust. So let the car idle for a couple of min with the A/C on and the car not moving. And look at the LTIT pid with the a/c on to see how far they move.
Russ Kemp
thanks russ I'll give that a try... so my suspicions may be correct in the sense that due to the small light clutch i may never get a perfect idle down there?
Unfortunately, a light weight clutch was a big mistake. It might gain 10 hp on a dyno, but way too many down sides. A light weight clutch/flywheel is only for drag racing when the tires spin with the stock weight clutch/flywheel when launching at very high rpm
Russ Kemp
ya oh well i understand we'll see what happens with this tune. worse comes to worse i change how i back out of spaces a bit lol. it wasnt bad with the ls6 setup but the fast and larger tb may have just exacerbated the issue
OK heres my latest update... I tried the tune 6 file and the car hated it from a hanging idle to stalling pretty much everywhere in the rpm range. LOL anyway I took some pieces of that tune and pasted into my other one that I had working pretty well and cam up with whats below. The good news with this tune is that almost everything is solved. The a/c kicks on and the car returns to idle perfectly from any speed clutch in or out so its all good there now. Literally the last problem is the turning. Its really bizzare. If I start to turn the wheel when backing out and let off the gas/push in the clutch the rpms will flare and then just drop out while im straightening the wheel out to go forward..
however if i do that same thing but allow the rpm to come back to idle before straightening the wheel out then i can turn the wheel whichever way i want ith no problem. so it seems to me if im turning the wheel when the car is idling down t has a problem but if i allow it to return to adaptive idle then its ok. so should i try to cuts the adaptive idle times or perhaps add to the proportional airflow adder table?
The adaptive idle is only active when the vehicle is not moving and the TPS is 0%. There is no cure for a light weight clutch/flywheel idle stall/surge.
Russ Kemp
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