6*-9* Knock Retard on stock ZL1 tune?

[jon6.0]

I've been data logging with my HP Tuners. I'm seeing 6*-9* of timing pulled for knock retard in 4th and 5th gear. I'm quite frankly scared to get on it now. I don't like running any KR in my tune. I never did datalog my C6 when it was stock, so I have no idea what that car was doing. It seems wrong to have that much timing pulled for KR. It's really hard not to just tune it. I would like to keep my warranty though. I was thinking of swapping to a 7 heat range plug and putting a can of Torco in it to see if that clears anything up.

This morning:

In 1st, 2nd, and 3rd it was 23* of timing. In 4th it was 16* with the 6* pulled out of it.

[SICK WS 6]

I'm an auto, but mine wasn't seeing any KR when it was stock.
Are you getting any KR at part throttle?

[jon6.0]

No. I also need to set it so I read IAT2.

[EFI]

You live in Arizona and probably see insane IATs. The tune is pulling heavy timing due to that, especially at high speeds that 4th and 5th gears command.

Not much else you can do unless you move to Alaska.

[jon6.0]

A Lingenfelter 4L reservoir is on order for the blower coolant. Also going to try Engine Ice in the blower coolant system.

[SICK WS 6]

But he said KR, not negative iat advance....which is what the scanner will pick up with high iat2's

[Higgs Boson]

I would think you could plainly hear 6-9 degrees of pinging on a stock vehicle. can you?

[jon6.0]

I can't hear a thing. I know I'm supposed to be reading IAT2, but for some reason I can't select that PID. Is there something I have to do so it reads it? I had this HP Tuners on my C6. I just plugged it in and started logging with the config on my c6. The KR timing pulled corresponds to IAT advance. They both say the same thing. If KR says 6* then IAT advance said 6* also.

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

adjust your intake advance table and see when you get after another log

[jon6.0]

adjust your intake advance table and see when you get after another log

I won't be tuning it yet. I did download the tune to my laptop though. Then wondered if I had just voided my warranty after I did it. I hope not. That's what I get for trying to think without coffee this morning.

How do I get the logger to read IAT2?

[10_SS]

I've been data logging with my HP Tuners. I'm seeing 6*-9* of timing pulled for knock retard in 4th and 5th gear. I'm quite frankly scared to get on it now. I don't like running any KR in my tune. I never did datalog my C6 when it was stock, so I have no idea what that car was doing. It seems wrong to have that much timing pulled for KR. It's really hard not to just tune it. I would like to keep my warranty though. I was thinking of swapping to a 7 heat range plug and putting a can of Torco in it to see if that clears anything up.

This morning:

In 1st, 2nd, and 3rd it was 23* of timing. In 4th it was 16* with the 6* pulled out of it.

You could buy a spare ECU, and program that one all you want. Don't touch the stock ECU. Throw it in your closet. Keep your warranty.

[10_SS]

I would think you could plainly hear 6-9 degrees of pinging on a stock vehicle. can you?

you wont hear 6-9 degrees of pinging... since that's not a measurement. Your not hearing the knock because there's 6-9 degrees of timing being pulled and that is stopping the knock. You'll only hear pinging if your knock retard has maxed out at whatever the max is.. 10-15 degrees? If it maxes out, then likely it needs to pull more timing but cant... then you might hear it. Setup a Knock histogram if you don't already have one.. see if it's knocking mainly in one area. if it's only one area then likely you could simply tune that out... if it's random all over the place... less to worry about.

I know this isn't a good comparison, but the wifes new Equinox knocks constantly. It's direct injected and I wonder if they are relying on the knock system to keep the timing at the ragged edge of max performance... (max timing), which makes the most power, uses the least gas.

[5FDP]

On a 2011 5.3 silverado I tuned it always "knocked" on the factory tune, upwards of 6-8 at wot and it was fine. It tried to command alot of timing but always dropped to the low 20's high teens and stayed there. We ran 93 octane and it dropped a few points. After we tuned it, it rarely see's 1-3 at wot and it's a stock motor still. To me it's a stock vehicle and they are just designed that way, hell my supercharged grand prix saw 6º stock.

[jon6.0]

You could buy a spare ECU, and program that one all you want. Don't touch the stock ECU. Throw it in your closet. Keep your warranty.

That actually works?

you wont hear 6-9 degrees of pinging... since that's not a measurement. Your not hearing the knock because there's 6-9 degrees of timing being pulled and that is stopping the knock. You'll only hear pinging if your knock retard has maxed out at whatever the max is.. 10-15 degrees? If it maxes out, then likely it needs to pull more timing but cant... then you might hear it. Setup a Knock histogram if you don't already have one.. see if it's knocking mainly in one area. if it's only one area then likely you could simply tune that out... if it's random all over the place... less to worry about.

I know this isn't a good comparison, but the wifes new Equinox knocks constantly. It's direct injected and I wonder if they are relying on the knock system to keep the timing at the ragged edge of max performance... (max timing), which makes the most power, uses the least gas.

I'll try to the histogram up and see what it does. I think it's IAT related since the IAT and KR degrees pulled exactly match. How do I get my scanner to find all the PIDS that are supposed to be available? I was told to use IAT2, but that PID isn't highlighted and able to be selected. I'm using the same config file that I logged my C6 with.