Tuning Issues with LSJ Ariel Atom on E85

[Atom75]

Edit; on that pic I can spot some green color of the visible bypass seal. That indicates me your Harrop is fouling on the ZZP endplate and not sitting low enougn on the manifold with probably an airleak at the blower seal. The green bypass seal should be completely invisible from view.
And besides that you now bolted the SC down on a non-flat surface that can cause issues on the bearings...

I circled the spot where the Harrop is sitting on the end plate. Sounds like I need to take it off and fix it just to be sure.

[Speedytec]

Yep

When I sprayed there or aimed to that spot from the other (fuel rail) side I noticed my raised revs.

And as said, I grinded my ZZP plate down in-situ. Just SC + gasket removed and every opening taped of plus a blanket over the rest of the engine/car.
But in an Atom there is some part of the frame just near/above the SC, right? Well, just some more work...

[Area47]

while oyu have that out. change the injector insulators with new GM OEM. light grease on the seal and they will slide right in. replace the small o-ring on the injector base as well. The o-ring that prevents the injector from pushing through the insulator. Once all of your issues are fixed, THEN tune the engine. not until then or you will chasing your tail.

[Atom75]

while oyu have that out. change the injector insulators with new GM OEM. light grease on the seal and they will slide right in. replace the small o-ring on the injector base as well. The o-ring that prevents the injector from pushing through the insulator. Once all of your issues are fixed, THEN tune the engine. not until then or you will chasing your tail.

Here's what my ID1000 injectors looked like when I put them in. Do I need something else on them?

Do I just need this seal kit and 4 cups? Do the OE seals fit the ID1000 injectors?
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/LSJ-...44-P17419.aspx
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Fuel...17432C639.aspx

[Area47]

you do not have the small o-ring around the base of the injector body where the stainless part meets the black plastic. THIS is your problem. if photobucket was working, i would post the picture of what you need to fix you're whole mechanical issue.

[Atom75]

you do not have the small o-ring around the base of the injector body where the stainless part meets the black plastic. THIS is your problem. if photobucket was working, i would post the picture of what you need to fix you're whole mechanical issue.

Like this? I see the thin o-ring on the base. Is there another black o-ring on the tip? The photo isn't very clear.

[Area47]

correct.

[Atom75]

correct.

So there are 4 in total? Do you know the sizes for the 2 that I'm missing?

[Area47]

Last set of id1k injectors i setup in an lsj was 4 years ago. I can not remember the size of the o-ring. Your best bet is to take an injector and the insulator to the local parts store and dig through their o-ring collection until you find some that allow the injector to sit correctly in the insulators.

[Atom75]

The o-rings I got are #41 Danco from Home Depot. 9/16" OD, 7/16" ID, 1/16" thick. I can't force the injectors through the cups now.

I ground down the end plate so the Harrop clears.

My MAP sensor doesn't look good, so I'm going to replace it. I'll have it all back together in a few days and try it again.

[Atom75]

I am still working on my tune. With several of the tunes I have tried, the engine idles ok until the coolant temperature exceeds 140F. Then it either dies or revs itself. Is there a major change in the program above that temp?

I disconnected the MAF sensor and ran it again. This time it continued to idle ok up to >170F. I'm guessing that either my MAF is bad or I still have a vacuum leak. I ordered a new MAF just to be safe.

I fixed the interference with the intercooler endplate, and I added the o-rings to the fuel injectors. Where else could I have a major vacuum leak, and how can I detect it?

[Area47]

unless nick changed when the fuel trims come into play, not that i am aware of.

[Speedytec]

Just log idle rpm, vacuum/MAP pressure, ign timing and ETB position. This should give you clues for possible vacuum leak, but needs to be up to temperature to lower idle rpms to a decent level. (~ 850?)

And just post a log where it warms up until it dies on you. My gues that is where it switches to closed loop. (you can enforce open loop in the scanner vcm settings, but fuelling should be halfway decent for this)