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Thread: PLEASE HELP!!!Cant build up on spin tires over in my c5 corvette

  1. #41
    I'm going to replace it with a spare 1 I have I really hope it fixes it I will let you guys know how it goes

  2. #42
    should my problem be fixed when i replace maf if not what else do i have to do because i changed it and i still have the same problem

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    should my problem be fixed when i replace maf if not what else do i have to do because i changed it and i still have the same problem
    well not necessarily. Lets see a log with the new maf. You have to make sure your spare is ok. You should be reading the appropriate voltage now. Also you still may have to tune AFR.

  4. #44
    Like I said before if its not your maf it is most likely fuel delivery like fuel pressure, clogged injectors, bad fuel sender etc.

  5. #45
    ok i will log again and im starting to think it may be because i have a bad brake control module or its my fuel pump i do hear it whinning some days ill put a gauge on it

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    ok i will log again and im starting to think it may be because i have a bad brake control module or its my fuel pump i do hear it whinning some days ill put a gauge on it
    Yeah our fuel pumps are noisy as heck!!! But I will say I have owned this 1998 corvette for 11 years and have put 82000 miles on it. Besides cleaning the ground contacts I have never had any electrical problems. I had my gas gauge go to empty a couple of times and seafoam took care of it. As I said before I had a vacuum line go bad near the back of the manifold that caused me trouble.All in all my Ls1 has given me no real troubles at all. Very solid.

  7. #47
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    Your spare maf might be bad too, new ones aren't expensive from Rock Auto or similar. K&N filters can bugger them, especially if over-oiled. At sea level, 20-30 deg C temps you should see cylinder airmass peaking around 0.7 grams/cylinder around 5000 rpm and 250+ grams/second near redline, if it's significantly lower (like in your early logs) the maf is bad. If the maf readings are ok then check fuel pressure. O2 sensors rarely go bad, people are usually just shooting the messenger.

    Those numbers are about right for a stocker motor, cammed motors will inhale more.

  8. #48
    i just went ahead and bought a new maf i will log it and post

  9. #49
    here it is
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    here it is
    Hi there I looked at your log vs mine and everything is almost identical now! Your spark is 24 at redline where mine is 28 but other than that it is looking good. How does the car feel? Are you chirping the tires? Just want you to know that I changed my gears from 3.15 with stock converter to a 3.42 with pro torque converter (2800 stall) today and it is like a different car pharestutt. I mean it is a whole different animal. With traction control off I just sit there and smoke semi new nitto invo tires (less than 800 miles on them) !!! Very spirited. The gears really woke up this car. Even with the 3.15 running 12.9 second best 1/4 mile, dynoed at 311 RWHP I had some trouble spinning tires on hot days just FYI.

  11. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by 4horseman View Post
    Hi there I looked at your log vs mine and everything is almost identical now! Your spark is 24 at redline where mine is 28 but other than that it is looking good. How does the car feel? Are you chirping the tires? Just want you to know that I changed my gears from 3.15 with stock converter to a 3.42 with pro torque converter (2800 stall) today and it is like a different car pharestutt. I mean it is a whole different animal. With traction control off I just sit there and smoke semi new nitto invo tires (less than 800 miles on them) !!! Very spirited. The gears really woke up this car. Even with the 3.15 running 12.9 second best 1/4 mile, dynoed at 311 RWHP I had some trouble spinning tires on hot days just FYI.
    It spins the tires pretty good shifting to 2nd.. i dont know but it seems if it isn't breaking up as bad when i launch it but its something about the brake pedal being pressed that affects it because if its wet i can punch it and it will spin but soon as i touch the brakes it looses its "ummmph" so thats y i suspect the brake module that is bad is playing a part .Another thing i noticed is cars with the 411 pcm have a parameter called ETC INJECTOR DISABLE under the torque management tab but its not present on mine can that be affecting my car even if its not listed do i need to swap my pcm to fix it

  12. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    It spins the tires pretty good shifting to 2nd.. i dont know but it seems if it isn't breaking up as bad when i launch it but its something about the brake pedal being pressed that affects it because if its wet i can punch it and it will spin but soon as i touch the brakes it looses its "ummmph" so thats y i suspect the brake module that is bad is playing a part .Another thing i noticed is cars with the 411 pcm have a parameter called ETC INJECTOR DISABLE under the torque management tab but its not present on mine can that be affecting my car even if its not listed do i need to swap my pcm to fix it
    Mine does the same thing if I press the brake too much. Lightly touch the brakes, make sure traction control is off, and punch it. It took me awhile to learn how to do it right. Just barely touch the brake and punch. Be careful it might surprise you!!!

  13. #53
    Senior Tuner Russ K's Avatar
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    Are you sure that the Abuse Mode Enabled is set to Disabled in the trans torque management tab?

    Russ Kemp

  14. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ K View Post
    Are you sure that the Abuse Mode Enabled is set to Disabled in the trans torque management tab?

    Russ Kemp
    yes it is heres my tune
    Attached Files Attached Files

  15. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    yes it is heres my tune
    Hi Russ K. used one of your transmission tunes from the tune repository and WOW!!! you are the man!

    Just looking at his tune Russ he is running at about 890- 900 mv so his AFR is at 12.5-12.7 to 1 which isn't bad. He has correctly zeroed out torque management and disabled abuse mode as well. I own the exact car he does same specs and all and I will say it again these cars just dont spin all that good. They squat and hook especially with good tires on a hot day. Im running 303 RWHP (mustang Dyno)averaging about 13.03 in the quarter with the 3.15 ratio which is right on the performance window expected. When I first got the car I had tried power braking with the same results, sometimes I would bog other times I would smoke the whole street up. Just more dependent on brake pedal action I learned.
    I had an older mustang that would spin tires like crazy but wasn't faster than my C5 for sure. I think the fact that the car doesn't spin and pulls hard from mid range on is a good thing.

    Pharestutt try upgrading your gears to 3.42 or 3.73. You can sell your 3.15 differential to offset some of the cost. Find a 3 rib 3.42 on ebay and upgrade the guts to a c6zo6, http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...06-guts-2.html for about $650.00 and get you a better stall converter like a protorque 2600-2800 or even a yank 3000-3200. This will really wake up your c5. If you really want to go out while the cradle and tranny are dropped you can beef up your transmission with a truetech level 2 rebuild kit good for engines up to 550 hp or a level 3 good for up to 700 hp. I did the level 3 for added insurance and the possibility of future mods I plan on my car. All together with labor I invested $3000.00 and now my stock LS1 runs 12.52/12.59/12.56 with only a vararam on three passes in the quarter.I still use the stock engine parameters but I used a tune for the tranny from Russ and changed my TCC to %100 max and %90 Min respectively. Big difference in acceleration with the same HP output , and yes I can lay rubber when I want to. Now the issue is gas pedal action rather than brake pedal.

  16. #56
    Pharestutt you have your fans continually running? Fan on should be higher than fan off, also I noticed since you changed to a new MAF you developed a small amount of knock retard, not much about 4 degrees but thats about 8 HP when the PCM backs the timing off. Either add more fuel in the power enrich section or back the timing off in the main spark advance table. Knock retard passes 4 degrees around 3600 rpm with a MAP of 98 on your last log at WOT.

  17. #57
    Head to a parking lot to test.
    Crawl under the dash and unplug the 2 connectors on the brake switch and try it like that.

  18. #58
    Senior Tuner Russ K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharestutt View Post
    yes it is heres my tune
    Post a scan when brake torquing the car to see if the throttle is going to 100%. As there is no reason to change the ETC TPS MAX table to 100% as it is 0 stock. Also on some vehicles, when you set the MAX TORQUE to 640 ft lbs, the pcm can limit the throttle opening. So I would set it back to 450 ft lbs.

    Russ Kemp

  19. #59
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    It's interesting to data log both TPS and pedal position.
    Often they don't track. And correct, with foot on the brake trying to do a burnout, mine will just big until you lift off the brake a tad.
    I have all the torque management, abuse, even the timing retard retard for the traction control zeroed. I'll have to look at that TPS table. I also have my max tq set to 640.

    All that said, I can melt the tires to the cords. My car has run a 10.99.
    A line lock will cure the issue as well. I need to install the one I bought.

    Ron

  20. #60
    ok i will try to test it out and post a log of me power braking what can i do for that knock retard just reduce timing in those areas