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Thread: trans tune help please

  1. #1
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    trans tune help please

    hi i have a 95 camaro with an lt1 and a 24x conversion with a 411 pcm the trans haas a transgo hd 2 kit, all sonnax upgrades, a 97 valve body, 97 up 13 vane pump , pwm tcc, super 4th servo vette 2nd servo, a 2300 precision conv, and im hoping somebody can look at my log and tune and see if they can help since i did my conversion i have wasted my trans 5 times i have found and straightened out numerous mechanical problems and swap problems i had from previous builds, but i have shift timing issues as far as upshift speeds, lock up timing issues , pressures at highway cruise speed are a bit low on the 50-55 psi range with 0-5 %tps then comes right on as soon as u get into it 100++ but is seems low to me at cruise speeds and thats leading to overheating of my 3/4 clutches please help im getting tired of pulling and rebuilding ..... thank youmay 11 current fresh trans unchanged.hptfresh trans may 2.hplmy Trans.cfg

  2. #2
    your base shift pressure on upshift is way out of wack. I would put it back to stock. you have added a little on the multiplier, which is fine. I would set min tcc duty cycle to 99 and max to 100. You also have shift lock enabled, disable it. it will ruin a trans in a hurry. You can lower the shift times to 0 if you want, since the trans is upgraded and shifts faster than stock. I run my full throttle engage at 90%. also make sure the epc solenoid is set to stock also. that should get you started in the right direction.

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    I copied the base upshift pressures from the performance table out of my factory calibration and put it in the normal section because my car doesn't have the optional performance button others do. I read about doing the multiplier in one of Bill's stickies somewhere Why would disabling the shift lock help if factory it it enabled? What is the advantages of disabling it? And yes this epc has not been touched. I do want to shim up my pressure regulator a bit more to bring up my base pressure a few lbs. Also the 2-3 shift is almost too fast I think I still need to spend some time trying to get my up shifts figured out

  4. #4
    shift lock keeps the converter locked during the shifts. it is ok on stock motors, but will cook the 3-4 clutches in short time behind any motor with any kind of power. the 1-2 shift with the converter locked will break the sprag or the stock drum also. base shift pressure should be at 90. I looked at your log. you are getting a ton of slip when the converter is locked, you have something else going on there too. when your converter goes into lockup, you should see virtually no slip. I would copy over a stock tune file and start over. a properly built 60e will do great on a mostly stock tune. Mine has only the tm removed, upshift modifier, and shift times modified. everything else is stock. It sshifts smooth at low throttle and will snap your neck at high throttle. the log you have showed some weird force motor currents. I would look at a stock table vs. yours. It is way off.

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    Ok. Thank you for the help. Greatly appreciated I will look into it. Any suggestions on the converter slip?

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    Quote Originally Posted by odom1957 View Post
    your base shift pressure on upshift is way out of wack. I would put it back to stock. you have added a little on the multiplier, which is fine. I would set min tcc duty cycle to 99 and max to 100. You also have shift lock enabled, disable it. it will ruin a trans in a hurry. You can lower the shift times to 0 if you want, since the trans is upgraded and shifts faster than stock. I run my full throttle engage at 90%. also make sure the epc solenoid is set to stock also. that should get you started in the right direction.
    Mate with the transgo kit I wouldn't reduce the shift times down to zero mate, its ok on the 3rd-4th shift time =0 but on the 1st-2nd shift I would not leave it at zero ....just remember when you tune a box with a "shift kit" you must tune it differently than you would a "non kitted" box...keep running full throttle enable at 94% and disable at 84%......shift speeds need doing buddy not set up too good for your 3.73 ratio, (full throttle as well)....whats the go with the rpm cut off at 4500 rpm...converter apply speeds need doing mate, force motor current table needs work, shift times need work, MATE DO NOT LEAVE THAT BASE SHIFT PRESSURE VS TORQUE VS GEAR LIKE THAT CHANGE THAT ASAP THAT IS KILLING YOUR TRANS.....GRAB A STOCK SET UP AND PM MYSELF AND I WILL HELP YOU OUT THAT IS A SURE WAY TO KILL TRANS....AND THE PERFORMANCE TABLE,, DONT DRIVE THAT CAR UNTIL YOU SORT YOUR TRANS OUT MATE ...THAT UPSHIFT PRESSURE MULTIPLIER SHOULD NOT BE SET AT 2.00........Jason k if you would like help with a trans set up I have these trans down to a fine art and also the 6SPD AUTOS, send me some info and I will gladly help you out dude...I might be upfront and don't hold back but I like to help fellas out that are struggling with these 4l60E/4L65E cheers Bret ULTIMATE LSX TUNING

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    trans problems

    thanks for responding and be as up front and blunt as you want obviously i have no idea what im doing here lol i recently copied a 2000 tahoe 4l60e tune that i had in the shop into my tune and ran a log and this is what i came up with yes i would ABSOULTELY love some help this thing is driving me crazy thank you i found a ton of convertor slip in the notes on the scan i gave a lot of detail on the log as to what is happening

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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimate lsx tuning View Post
    Mate with the transgo kit I wouldn't reduce the shift times down to zero mate, its ok on the 3rd-4th shift time =0 but on the 1st-2nd shift I would not leave it at zero ....just remember when you tune a box with a "shift kit" you must tune it differently than you would a "non kitted" box...keep running full throttle enable at 94% and disable at 84%......shift speeds need doing buddy not set up too good for your 3.73 ratio, (full throttle as well)....whats the go with the rpm cut off at 4500 rpm...converter apply speeds need doing mate, force motor current table needs work, shift times need work, MATE DO NOT LEAVE THAT BASE SHIFT PRESSURE VS TORQUE VS GEAR LIKE THAT CHANGE THAT ASAP THAT IS KILLING YOUR TRANS.....GRAB A STOCK SET UP AND PM MYSELF AND I WILL HELP YOU OUT THAT IS A SURE WAY TO KILL TRANS....AND THE PERFORMANCE TABLE,, DONT DRIVE THAT CAR UNTIL YOU SORT YOUR TRANS OUT MATE ...THAT UPSHIFT PRESSURE MULTIPLIER SHOULD NOT BE SET AT 2.00........Jason k if you would like help with a trans set up I have these trans down to a fine art and also the 6SPD AUTOS, send me some info and I will gladly help you out dude...I might be upfront and don't hold back but I like to help fellas out that are struggling with these 4l60E/4L65E cheers Bret ULTIMATE LSX TUNING
    made a few more changes from the 2000 stock tahoe
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    what should i do with the tcc duty cycle or the shift speeds the tahoes seem way off just to copy over into mine plus the tire height difference the weight difference ect

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    Jason k , mate having a look at your above Tahoe file and the shift speeds out of wack...what I will do is send you some shift speed changes that you can make and it will improve out of sight...Also over time I will help you and send some changes for you to make ie converter/shift times/shift quality ie firmness/pressure changes etc .....cheers Bret ULTIMATE LSX TUNING.........just sent some changes for you Jason in your private messages inbox
    Last edited by THE CHAD; 05-27-2014 at 07:41 AM.

  11. #11
    Senior Tuner mbray01's Avatar
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    one other thing besides just the tune, you need to address if you are still using the cooler in the radiator, you need to bypass it completely and run only a large external cooler. after 5 rebuilds i can assure you it is completely clogged and the first thing a clogged cooler does is kill the 3-4 clutches. do not use cooler in radiator if it is still there
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    Thank you everyone. I will look at that stuff. And the cooler is clear and clean i flush it every time it's been apart. I have never let it put junk thru it and I do also have a large external cooler
    Also I didn't mention it is a stock style pwm convertor so It does NOT have high carbon clutches and needs to be pwm not on/off

  13. #13
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    Here is a transmission mod list also:::
    Hi everyone thanks for reading I have a 95 camaro lt1 with a 24 x conversion and using hp tuners and since the swap I keep smoking 3/4 clutches forward sprag and convertor. Drove fine before the swap for the conversion I installed a 97 valve body pt # 4203537 trans go 46-96 spacer plate with a trans go hd 2 kit all sonnax pinless pistons vette second servo # 95-1 sonnax super fourth sonnax hd 2-3 shift valve sonnax conv ISO valve 77754-03k pwm precision 2400 converter alto wide band alto red frictions used a complete new forward sprag assembly from gm , the superior rapid release 3-4 check valve, sonnax 490 boost valve with bumper spring shim from trans go kit, sonnax servo release check valve sonnax stator support, 97 pwm 13 vane pump, sonnax 3-2 control valve spring, no yoyo pump slide and spring, hardened pump rings , trans go 3/4 high rev release springs, No factory load release springs, drilled spacer plate , factory unadjusted epc, I have tried numerous programs from different cars and trucks, tried making my own by coping from others and have had no luck at all. On my 5 th or 6 the build since the PCM swap Any input from anybody with a successful 411 swap and a built trans??? Do I have program issues or a mismatch of parts or both? . Again thanks for even reading this nonsense

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    Senior Tuner mbray01's Avatar
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    I understand you clear flushed it. But i have been building these units for a long time, and I have seen more destroyed by a cooler that was clear flushed and flow tested. Just trying to be helpfull, do yourself a favor and bypass it. the design of the internal cooler will kill the 3-4 clutches.
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  15. #15
    Senior Tuner mbray01's Avatar
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    I am not sure on mismatch, i can tell you if you are using the hd sprag from gm with a converter, it will break the sprag. you have to go heavy duty aftermarket, hd gm will not hold up. me personally with all you have done and still have problems. i would bet on a mismatch between case and valvebody. this is why i never "convert" a trans to later electronics. I always get a good core that is correct for application, and build that. all of the internals will be the same.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbray01 View Post
    I am not sure on mismatch, i can tell you if you are using the hd sprag from gm with a converter, it will break the sprag. you have to go heavy duty aftermarket, hd gm will not hold up. me personally with all you have done and still have problems. i would bet on a mismatch between case and valvebody. this is why i never "convert" a trans to later electronics. I always get a good core that is correct for application, and build that. all of the internals will be the same.
    I kept breaking the Borg Warner so I figured I'd try the factory one from a vette. Now I found out it was most likely the tcc locked during shifts Also according to atsg the case is the same but I'm waiting to hear from another guy on that also. I also looked for a different core but I wanted to give this another shot. It's a real downer when I build these for a living I can make everyone else's work but my own is a disaster. Not that I haven't ever had a come back but this is crazy.

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    I do have another Borg Warner on the shelf and I figured I'd open it again to check it out. That's the last one I took out with about 50 miles on it
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    Senior Tuner mbray01's Avatar
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    if you broke that then the gm will never survive. compare a gm to that and there is no comparison. where both surfaces of the cage o.k. It's funny I am always saying the vehicles that give you the most problems, are either yours, your families, or your friends. It has to be a sub-conscience thing lol. I would double check that case is correct. double check casting numbers are correct for application, and is it possible that case is warped, I had one a few years ago that would tear up every three to four months and come to find out the case was warped. just throwing everything of his in another case and never came back. I still see vehicle in my shop all the time but never for trans.
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    ok ran a new log with the new tune that Bret from ultimate lsx tuning put together for me WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE the 1-2 shift is a little early but it shifts great, pressures are correct now, shifts are smooth heres the log any info on the convert slip?? think i should change it out again?? i plan on tearing it down for an inspection 1 more time, and by pass the cooler.... i did have the tcc locked on during shifts for a few before it was pointed out to me what that does to the sprag
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbray01 View Post
    if you broke that then the gm will never survive. compare a gm to that and there is no comparison. where both surfaces of the cage o.k. It's funny I am always saying the vehicles that give you the most problems, are either yours, your families, or your friends. It has to be a sub-conscience thing lol. I would double check that case is correct. double check casting numbers are correct for application, and is it possible that case is warped, I had one a few years ago that would tear up every three to four months and come to find out the case was warped. just throwing everything of his in another case and never came back. I still see vehicle in my shop all the time but never for trans.
    yea its always the way just like when u give a customer a break its always the one that comes back to haunt you lol and no the last sprag chewed up the races thats why i went with the complete input sprag from gm this time and ive been looking for a core for a while but i want a 97 from an f body and everyone says its a 97 till i ask for a picture of the case numbers lol thanks again for your help