First attempt at SDOL, is this in the ballpark to start the car?

[550]

Hello,
I have read a lot of threads on tuning and still have a ton to go, but I am in hope that someone could do a flyby look at my tune to see if it is close enough for me to start the motor.

GTO Speed Density 2 SD enhanced and TCS patch 2.hpt

It is a 2006 GTO LS2
CNC ported LS3 heads, stock LS3 intake, no MAF sensor
Deatschwerks 50lb injectors. Deatschwerks DW65C fuel pump in stock tank
Fairly large cam: 245/253 .650/.650 110
SRP forged pistons and Manley H-beam rods. 10.2 to 1 compression.
ARH 1.875 headers, 3" catless mids. 3" Magnaflow exhaust.
Daytona WEGO 3 wideband
The motor was on a Superflow 902 engine dyno and made 572/515 if that makes a difference (running with BigStuff 3 fuel injection).

I realize that I have a big undertaking with this project...learning tuning/HPtuners and starting with an SDOL tune, but I'll get there, just want to see if I'm in the ballpark to start the car.

Mods I have done to the tune:
Main VE table: multiplied by 1.15 everywhere. In the 400-1200 rpm rows, I reduced significantly based on what I have read.
Copied stock HO spark table to LO. Set idle at 1400 rpm...will reduce it a couple hundred when I get the basic tune ironed out.
Did the 2 bar SD enhancement, changed MAP sensor values back to match my 1 bar OEM Map sensor.
I believe I have everything filled out so it will stay out of closed loop.
DFCO is disabled
Injector flow rate and related values were provided by Deatschwerks (see attached excel). I used these values except for the Flow rate which I calculated with the Excel spreadsheet on this site.
I'm sure I'm forgetting other changes I made, but am I in the neighborhood to start the car?
Thanks for any help.
Tim

Forgot Excel attachment GM injector data 16u-50 fuel injector data.xlsx

[Widebody06]

As you can see from my rating...big time newbie but like you I've read a lot and have almost half a clue. Havent done any SD only tuning yet so not sure everything I say below applies
So far you've done all the things I've read are good starting points so I would fire it and see what you got...but if you're a worrier...message one of the senior or advanced tuners...worst thing could happen is they ignore you.
So some things I've read:
hard starting: try> Idle startup airflow vs ert vs ect - added 35% to table 177-305
running a MAF later? MAF 2800-3400 x 1.05 then 1.01(guessing you wont run MAF)
Idle: from stock> take 30% off 400, 20% off 800 and 10% off 1200 VE cells. If still rich redo with 10% more reduction at each RPM also Final idle airflow min -2 250-1000 may help. Of course in your case you might also want to extend the reductions to the next RPM cells in both VE and Final airflow min

And my biggest help....a bump so someone with a whole clue can bless your setup...good luck and happy tuning

[550]

Thank you for the reply. I started the car yesterday and it went well. It did ok on the cold start but I had to hold the throttle to keep it idling at probably 1,100 to 1,200 even though I have the idle set to 1,300. When I let off the gas smoothly it would idle ok at 1,000. If I just let off the gas abruptly it would stumble down to 800 or so and usually recover. It was running rich - around 12.5 or so average. One thing that I'm sure is not helping is that when I let it idle on its own (at around 1,000) timing was cycling rapidly between 13 and 24 degrees. I'm going to first try and correct that and then address the fueling.
Once the motor got up to operating temp it was tougher to start. Just did not want to fire. It almost sounded like it needed fuel, but that doesn't really make much sense to me, but being a newbie at this there are a lot of things that I need to read about.
Overall, I am happy that it fired right up and ran somewhat ok.
Thank you for your suggestions; I really appreciate the help. I am going to give your suggestions a shot later this week when I get time to work on the car.
I have been reading a lot of your threads and they have helped me out. I'll have to go back and read again, but if I remember correctly, you made a comment on Real Time Tuning; I did not think it was an option on E40 cars. I'll check on it again, but it would be nice if RTT is an option for us.
Thanks again,
Tim

[mowton]

The best idle adjust advise I can give is to set the idle rpm to 1200-1500 or what ever is needed to keep it running when at operating temp and begin tuning the MAF/VE from there up. Once complete, you slowly work your way down from your starting point as the MAF/VE are now pretty stable and trends you developed going up are a good help in going down. These airflow settings are key to getting driveability and idle tuning complete.

Closed throttle idle is completely different than open throttle events. The PCM uses many adaptive air and timing parameters in an effort to control the idle. The best advise I can give on this technique is to watch the adaptive/base idle timing fluctuates back and forth to try and maintain your idle RPM. This will tell you whether your air/fueling is biased in the lean or rich side and you can work that first. As you get closer and closer to nominal air, the timing will impart less and less influence to control the idle rpm.

Also stock values are usually pretty close so if you have changed theme greatly, I recommend going back to stock and starting over. It becomes a chicken or the egg scenario and you want to attack each element in order.

Tune looks good to get into open loop SD. As a note, generally if there is a top level enable for a function like DFCO, you can just set it to disable and leave the other sub enable parameters as they were. Just makes reinitializing them when your done tuning that much easier. But better to be safe than sorry I always say :-)

Hope this general discussion helps.

Ed M

[550]

Ed,
Thanks for the help. I'll set the idle to 1,400 - 1,500 and see how it behaves. In your first sentence when you say "begin tuning the MAF/VE from there up" are you including WOT? I have been going at it the other way...try to get it to idle and then keep going up.
My biggest/main change that I have made (other than injector flow rates and related) is in the main VE table. I have read several times that with a cam the lower rpm rows will more than likely need reduced while the upper rpm cells with probably need increased. What I did to that table was highlight the entire table and multiplied by 1.15 to purposefully richen the table for safety. Then in the lower rpm tables (400 - 1,200 if I remember correctly without looking at the file) I reduced by 60% (400 rpm), 40% (800 rpm) and 20% (1,200 rpm). Since my wideband indicated rich even when I held it at 1,200 rpm, I have work to do here.
I will adjust my idle speed up as stated and then make small changes to the Main VE to see if I can get fuel closer and see where that takes me.
I'll keep reading all that I can about tuning as you stated one of my biggest concerns...to attack each element in the correct order.
Thanks for looking at the tune; I really do appreciate it. Oh and sorry, I think I did go a little ocd on how I eliminated some functions.
Tim

[Widebody06]

I suspect you're right about RTT...of all people I should know about marketing ploys...looks like a Gen3 option and at that I can't even find how to obtain it regardless. Judging by the OS tab our only option is 2 bar SD. Which sucks SO much or should I say blows? I was hoping the 1 bar MAF enhanced might offer something I want but guessing thats not an option either.

[GXPLS4]

I'm looking at your mods and without your maf, how are you reading iats?

[550]

GXPLS4,
I am using a breakout harness. Originally the IAT sensor is built into the MAF, so when i ditched the MAF unit I purchased a MAF/IAT breakout harness from Summit (Summit part number CEI-108136) to split the harness that originally went to the MAF. Obviously the MAF end of the breakout harness I am not using, but the IAT end of it I plugged into my stock airbox using a rubber grommet and IAT sensor from a LS1 camaro (probably this one from Summit - SMP-AX32).
Are you considering removing the MAF?
Tim

[550]

I suspect you're right about RTT...of all people I should know about marketing ploys...looks like a Gen3 option and at that I can't even find how to obtain it regardless. Judging by the OS tab our only option is 2 bar SD. Which sucks SO much or should I say blows? I was hoping the 1 bar MAF enhanced might offer something I want but guessing thats not an option either.

I did the 2 bar SD enhancement but I really wish we had the RTT. I'm kind of surprised you are using the MAF...I thought that the MAF didn't really get along with cams. I'm still trying to learn all of this though so I'm probably wrong about that!
Tim

[Widebody06]

Don't know what the limits are but my cam isn't huge and the car came tuned with the MAF. So while I suspect it needs recalibrated, it definitely works. AYMK, stock setup is a MAF/SD hybrid so I trying to keep it that way with the idea that it will improve drivability. For drag racing, it just complicates tuning without much benefit, I'm a wanna be road racer so its worth the extra effort, not to mention I'm planning on attending lots of car meets and shows so mileage is important and I think SDOL wont give me the best mileage. But as I said before, I'm a newbie..might be making several mistakes, worst case I will learn a lot.

I did the 2 bar SD enhancement but I really wish we had the RTT. I'm kind of surprised you are using the MAF...I thought that the MAF didn't really get along with cams. I'm still trying to learn all of this though so I'm probably wrong about that!
Tim

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

I believe with the VCM control you can control idle and make adjust adjustments in your HPT file so you dont have to flash the car many times.

E40 PCM does not support RTT

[550]

I didn't know that. I have been making changes in the editor and then flashing the new calibration. I'll do some searching on this as it would definitely help not having to flash so often. So far I just make one change at a time and see how it affects the car.

I believe with the VCM control you can control idle and make adjust adjustments in your HPT file so you dont have to flash the car many times.

E40 PCM does not support RTT

[Widebody06]

Looking thru the menus doesnt look like you can do much that would reduce flashing
You can command an rpm though which is handy