The bigger throttle body is notorious for Crappy idle but I would do a quick compression test for safety and then start over starting at fuel injector data because you are saying the problems that arise with partially good Injector data.
Crap in crap out.
Okay I think I found the problem honestly.. I changed my short injector pulse width from 4 to 1 as well, I don't know if it has anything to do with my honestly, pretty good idle (not being sarcastic lol, read on, I found a good idle), but I saw that injector pulse width at idle was less than 3, while the idle jumped, so I pushed it down.
Anyways. I seemed to have noticed that I was able to get idle to run pretty damn well once in a blue moon.. I couldn't explain why, but now I can. My IAT's. If they are anything below 70~ degrees, the car freaks out and wont idle. I changed the intercooler pump turn on at 75 I think right now, and it idles great within 5~ minutes of driving. This is problem, I say, because my car can idle one time and then wont another time, and the only difference is IAT. Tune is the same, values are the same, ECT can be whatever, but obviously the engine has to be warm for the intake to be warm.
So, anyone know what would cause this? Im thinking my spark plugs, and ironically JP said for me to change them.. Perhaps spark blowout at idle? Plugs are BKR8EIX from amazon, gap was not touched, left them the same as what they arrived as.
The log begins at about 4:01.
Last edited by PyroMechanic; 07-17-2015 at 09:17 AM.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Wooohooooo! the plugs are at too cold of a heatrange is what i was talking about btw, get stock heat range or one step colder, gap at .032
As for the iat issues, go ahead and 0 out your spark adder tables, see if that helps
Is that what will cause that? Too cold a heatrange on plugs? Im also thinking e85 is somewhat to blame, maybe. Im really thrilled I found this, though. Wouldn't have been able to do this without HPT lol. This was happening long before HPT. The first thing I did on the car was get these plugs.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Plug heat ranges are designed to keep cylinder temps in a specific range, too cold and your plugs/cylinder cant burn off excess carbon deposits, too hot and it causes predet, the heat range is designed as a self cleaning processs
Oh wow, I never knew that. I thought heat ranges simply gave a better burn, and wont cause blowout. So which plug will be best for my mods? Pre detonation can be prohibited with reducing timing, and E85 haha. I cant find my old plugs, perhaps I threw them out, they were junk.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Just keep it simple, heat range 7 should be fine, go with bkr7e, gap at .032 and call it a day
Alright so the same day I picked up the BKR7E plugs. Went home removed my BKR8EIX plugs and they were gapped to .032. I don't remember that lol. The BKR7E that I was putting in were pregapped all to .0345. So I just left them gapped like that. Now idle is just a tad better. It still jumps but not by much, and the car seems to still have knock at idle if I let it hunt for awhile. And I also got about 3* of knock at 4k on WOT pulls, which timing was removed there. LTFT's seemed to jump far from 0 so I adjusted those again, and car seems to run much better. Although, still hunts. The rest has to be a mechanical problem.
BTW I do/did have many electrical problems. I have fuse 47 in the engine bay fuse box that has power on both prongs. Someone want to confirm? Thanks guys!
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Where at in oh?
Edit: nvm. Saw your sig.
Anyway, the advice given so far should get you in the right direction.
Last edited by armcclure; 01-16-2014 at 09:19 AM.
first is a power lesson: ground lead from multmeter on chassis ground and then positive lead touch both prongs. if it shows voltage on both sides its a good fuse and that was all you confirmed. if you only had power on 1 prong the fuse would be blown.
now i mentioned before you need to start over and after witnessing you try to adjust everything 3-4 times over im sure your injector data needs help.
best to take the big throttle body off and put the stock one on. its easier to get it running smooth on the OEM TB. this will speed up re-calibrating your injectors. once done you havent changed the injectors so you put the TB back to the big one and you should be able to start tuning everything else besides the injectors without any problems. i always verify the new TB hasn't made the injectors fall into a cell that wasnt being hit by the OEM one. if that happens you will have maybe a few cells to touch up then back on the road to finishing.
if you need injector help try to contact LWRS10. if he doesnt answer i can talk to him for you so you get a reply.
I have Randy's spreadsheet if you need it. All credit goes to him for the time he put into it.
And as far as that fuse goes: he was saying he has power on both sides with the fuse REMOVED.
I had my negative on the valve cover. Tested both prongs individually by removing the fuse and touching each with the positive side of the multimeter. Power on both sides. If I keep the fuse removed, everything in the car runs normally! Except, I get worse gas mileage than my current 14.5, and my car has a harder time idling too.
I have already tried Omega spreadsheet injector data and my injectors did not like them at WOT. I was running so lean. I was already thinking of getting off of E85 yesterday when I was near empty, but my idle seemed to change my mind lol.
Also another thing I noticed, the "overspeed" or "underspeed" tables, I thought, were rather too strong so I toned them down.. Idle didn't like it all!! So, since it didn't like me toning them down, I will take the original over/underspeed tables and amp them by 1.05 or so perhaps. And before I put the LS4 TB on, the LSJ TB idle was just as bad..
Saying that, I went to the library and looked up alldata on fuse 47. Couldn't find much, but I feel like electrical problems are my problem right now. Ive had sooo many when I first got the car, Ive cut them down, but there could be more.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Yeah... The omega tables are farther off than people realized.
Honestly I suspect your solid mounts causing false kr at idle. You more or less have to be TRYING to get corn to knock.
My underspeed tables were a kick in the nuts to get the cams to hold a steady idle.
Also I've had better luck setting base idle timing in the low 20's and using straight interpolated over/under speed setup.
Another small trick is setting your target idle to 1500 or so while you get things dialed in, then work it down.
That's what Im saying! And that's a good thought about the the solid mounts, Ive actually thought about that before. Althoughhhh, I don't have my Bwoody engine mount on right now, the bolt for it broke and had to put the stock one back on. And you interpolated over/under speed tables? Hmm I haven't tried that.. And my idle is at 950, I cant seem to get it to idle any lower. Anything higher is great.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
Yeah. On the overspeed table set first cell 0 last cell -25. Highlight the whole thing and click the interpolate button.
Do the same thing for underspeed but use 0 and +75. The. Find where it hits +20 and level that out to the end.
Yeah, I did something similar to that, I still need to tweak it. Idle doesn't seem too bad anymore, just the knock is ridiculous.
Back to the knock because of the solid motor mounts though.. Maybe that explains why I get knock when idle and give a quick rev. Or when I still get knock on lower rpms, between .08 g/cyl to .32 g/cyl.
Does anyone get like 9* of knock when starting a cold car on E85? Like around 35* is the engine temp. Right when I start mine, lovely knock everywhere, and for a good few seconds too. I have a log of it, if anyone wants to see it.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
i should visit this place more often!
If you need LSJ injector help, I'm your guy.
Alright, besides removing the mounts that I will try in a few days, I guess everyone says I need injector tuning. Fyi though, I have never, and never learned about tuning the injectors. I know what the tables are and do, but I have no clue where to begin or what to do.
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Opel's, upgraded fuel lobe, 3 bar map, balance shaft delete
[email protected]
I have solids with no kr. Mine are custom not from zzp cause I opted for a custom material insert but vibrations from mounts shouldn't be causing the kr.
My bad on the power lesson thought you were referring to installed fuze. If it's not there its shorted to another systems power. Fastest way monitor power on the circuit side then start pulling fuses. When it looses voltage that's the circuit it's shorted to.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
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