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Thread: 2011 HHR Turbo conversion.

  1. #1
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    2011 HHR Turbo conversion.

    Hello to all.
    I am doing a turbo conversion on my HHR, This is a daily driver but not a commuter car.
    I am not new new to tuning just new to HP Tuner, Buick GN and obd1 chip burning. and mefi1-2. So i have a clue.
    I have been tuning on mine NA for about 2 months now, but just timing and cams. I am starting the turbo install now and need help on the new tune.

    Turbo New Take off from a 2.0
    Boost will be no more then 6 LB.
    Cold air intake.
    Just a muffler change, Allready done dual exhaust, mangaflow mufflers.
    I am looking for a safe tune so anyone can drive the car,I all ready have toy cars this one is only being done because the 2.2 just does not have the power that i would like.

    .
    Last edited by Tom H; 01-02-2014 at 06:00 AM.

  2. #2
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    Update.
    It is a 2011 HHR automatic.

    It is great around town. Not liking the hi way. No passing power to much down shifting on hills.
    I was able to resolve most of the freeway way issues. Timing, cam tables, tcc and shift points.

    Here is my problem, I was thinking the HHR SS and COBALT SS factory tunes would get me a baseline, seems they are on another platform (looks easier) then mine.
    Thanks in advance
    Tom Huard

  3. #3
    Tuner noorjSS's Avatar
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    You have a 2.4?

    Do not use anything from the factory turbocharged tunes. The E67 is completely different from the E69. You don't need a "base map" just turn down high cyl airmass spark timing, might also be a good idea to add 10-20% to your high maf just to make sure you don't lean out the very first time. Then begin tuning.
    2006 Chevy Cobalt SS 2.4 Turbo
    320 whp 299 wtq

  4. #4
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    If you are referring to using the K04 turbo off of the LNF, make sure to adjust your PE settings very liberally for the first runs as well; it's going to hit super early and hard on a 2.4 with high compression. I'd adjust your PE enable MAP to 100-105kpa, and make the pedal settings pretty low, so that you get the extra fuel as soon as it's in boost. After you log how it hits, you can adjust the pedal settings accordingly. Six PSI is not much, but you still want to be safe right?
    2013 Cruze Eco - CAI, Catless DP, Catless MP, ZZP FMIC, Ported Intake Manifold, Mild tune (17psi), best 43.5mpg, 175ftlbs (pid)

    2008 Solstice GXP - ZFR 6758, catless, AEM stage 1 water/methanol injection, Hahn Racecraft Intercooler, solo street race cat back, LE5 throttle body - 307whp on a dyno dynamics (stock turbo numbers), 100 octane EFR6758 numbers - 463whp/454wtq

  5. #5
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    I run 12 psi max on 2.4 conversions most go to 10psi

  6. #6
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    2011 HHR 2.2 automatic.
    Factory Turbocharger.
    Who has done it? How much boost did, are you running?

    I was thinking 5-6 lbs. timing 18' LOW 22 HIGH pull 2-4 deg in PE mode.
    Right now PE adder is 1.019-1.109 2k-6k
    This computer does not use any AF Ratios? I am thinking Flex Fuel?
    I am not sure what to do with the VE tables? This does not cross over to any of the Buick Stuff.

    Looked @ the Trans tables from an 09 HHR SS and the shift pressure is 10lbs higher. I think I will copy all of the Trans tables over?

    Thanks for the input.

  7. #7
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    unfortunately for you you started reading the wrong how to for your ecu. you should forget the lnf/buick style tuning steps available here and start over by reading the lsj how to sections.

    at 1.109 your commanding 13.22 afr and under boost you are way to lean. i would recommend setting pe to a boost safe zone of 11.5-11.7 afr. at 12psi i run 18* -19* timing max and made great safe power. to acquire 14.69 afr you will set the pe multiplier to 1.0 if you want 11.7 afr it will be 1.256 and if you want to be even safer you go richer around the lowest 11.5 afr with 1.277. best to run leaner until boost is full then throw it in towards the high rpm to keep the cylinders cool.

    link to lsj bellow