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Thread: easyily move wideband between cars

  1. #1

    easyily move wideband between cars

    Ok, I really thought I was set on the LC-1 then when searching, I found a thread saying the LM-1 is more portable...dunno why.

    So my question is, what kind of setups are people running so that you can just screw the o2 into a bung, plug in power (say to a cigarette lighter) and go? I understand the writeups about wiring in an LC-1, but I'm looking for a less permanent solution that I could just plug into a car when tuning.

    Thanks

    Edit: Guess I should mention I'd be using with EIO.

  2. #2
    HP Tuners Support
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    I personally have an LM-1...plug that into the cig lighter and into my custom EIO box that i made



    I usually have my customers have a bung installed in the drivers side ypipe right before the elbow but after the header itself. That way I don't even have to jack the car up to install the sensor. I then either run it under the door or between the window & car depending on what car im tuning. Takes about 5 mins when everything works out well.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    just look at mine....
    I use factory o2 conector for power..and have a disconect for eio so I can run cable up through the door crack....
    I also just use the existing front o2 bung as I usually tune in open loop with the wideband, and in closed loop I use the o2 from their car as thats what is going back in later anyways.

    Last edited by S2H; 01-13-2006 at 02:02 PM.
    -Scott -

  4. #4
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    does your unit say "ANAL"? lol
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by foff667
    I personally have an LM-1...plug that into the cig lighter and into my custom EIO box that i made

    I usually have my customers have a bung installed in the drivers side ypipe right before the elbow but after the header itself. That way I don't even have to jack the car up to install the sensor. I then either run it under the door or between the window & car depending on what car im tuning. Takes about 5 mins when everything works out well.
    That's exactly what I was looking for. Problem is I don't think I completely understand how the LM-1 (or LC-1 fully for that matter now) is wired.

    Is there a way I could wire the LC-1 to be powered off the cigarette lighter and then plug it into a box like you made? I'd like to save the money from teh LM-1 because I don't need the display. This is kind of hard for me to visualize all the wires as right now I only have the serial non-eio until the usb-eio comes in that I ordered. Sure was nice of them to send me the serial until the usb arrives though.

    Maybe some combination of the two? You both seem to have it worked out. I don't mind having to weld another bung in the car. Sometimes getting to those front o2 plugs are a pain in the ass (like in the gto).

  6. #6
    Well, I finally got my LC-1 in and got confirmation that the cig lighter for the LC-1 is a bad idea. Where did you run your wires when you tuned that GTO?

  7. #7
    also, i heard the narrowband ends are reversed between gto's and f-bods. You wouldn't know for sure would you? Did you build some kind of adapter to fit both cars?

  8. #8
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shizon
    also, i heard the narrowband ends are reversed between gto's and f-bods. You wouldn't know for sure would you? Did you build some kind of adapter to fit both cars?
    ends are the same cause I had a gto guy buy the same bosch 13111's that I had on my car when the stockers werent switching good...
    and they worked for him
    -Scott -

  9. #9
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shizon
    Well, I finally got my LC-1 in and got confirmation that the cig lighter for the LC-1 is a bad idea. Where did you run your wires when you tuned that GTO?
    we used the stock o2 connector for power..pin D i believe
    -Scott -

  10. #10
    great, thanks!

  11. #11
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    Interesting about the O2 vs cig lighter power (and perhaps
    more to the point, ground). But with the EIO ground being
    OBDII connector, which is the "best" ground in terms of the
    LM-1 / LC-1 heater power induced ground voltage error,
    relative to EIO ground? Any of you who've got both options
    available, able to take a ground current reading (DMM in the
    LM-1 to EIO ground lead, mA, with them connected or ground
    pin difference voltage, with them not connected but lit up)?

  12. #12
    Well after reading some more on the lc-1 grounds, it seems I could grab my 12v switched power from the cig lighter as long as I'm grounding everything to the eio, it sounds like all should be good.

    Anybody know how "dirty" that power is? It sounds like the ground on the cig is dirtier than the switched power.

  13. #13
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shizon
    Well after reading some more on the lc-1 grounds, it seems I could grab my 12v switched power from the cig lighter as long as I'm grounding everything to the eio, it sounds like all should be good.

    Anybody know how "dirty" that power is? It sounds like the ground on the cig is dirtier than the switched power.
    cig lighter ground sucks...
    power is not so great either as ist such a small wire...but it should work...
    you shold definately check the connector for "heat" as it will get hot if teh wires are not big enough to handle the currecnt draw....
    if it get to hot theh try running it to a fuse panel blank spot and use a little spade conector
    -Scott -

  14. #14
    Senior Tuner LSxpwrdZ's Avatar
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    I like that o2 sensor powering the wideband trick.. I'm gonna make a cable similar to that myself in the near future I believe!!! Has that proven to be a less noisy power source compared to the cig lighter? I use an LM-1 with cig lighter power and my analog outputs are all over the place oscillating so I'd like to get a cleaner power source for the wideband so it will in turn provide a cleaner analog out signal..

    PS sorry to bring this back from the dead... I'm bored on this cold winter night...lol
    Last edited by LSxpwrdZ; 12-06-2008 at 02:11 AM.
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