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Thread: Trying to get BACK to GMS1

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    12

    Trying to get BACK to GMS1

    Okay its a long story so I will try to make it short and concise. I have been reading A LOT on here to try and get myself up to speed.

    2010 Cobalt SS LNF that is completely stock other than a hotside charge pipe to replace the faulty stock one.

    I bought the car used from a Ford dealer. Found out later that it had all the sensors and stickers that would lead me to believe it was GMS1

    Car had horrible long term fuel trims (15-20%) that fluctuated a lot and would run like crap if I installed a K&N SRI. Boost would only get to 17psi.

    I found a bunch of boost leaks and fixed all of them. Tried replacing a bunch of other parts as well and nothing ever solved the problem. I even had the turbo replaced under warranty since the compressor wheel had started to bash the housing.

    Bought HP Tuners from another user on Cobaltss.net to try and log/read to see if something was up tune-wise. Log did not look weird other than the aforementioned high LTFTs. Here is the original log:

    http://www.mediafire.com/download/8g...redworklog.hpl (not that great as I was still learning how to configure my scanner)

    Read the ECU and compared it to a GMS1 file that I got from the user that I bought the software from. They did not match. MAF correction/base tables, TM tables, injector pulse length, and other not so in depth (no timing or cam changes that I saw) were all different. I am assuming that the original user had an intake and tuned for it then removed the intake (or other parts) and then traded the car in.

    GMS1 file from seller: http://www.mediafire.com/download/ca...psp1c/GMS1.hpt
    My car's original tune file: http://www.mediafire.com/download/qf..._9_15_2013.hpt

    I want to return the car to GMS1 so I can try to retain my powertrain warranty if something goes wrong.

    I tried to flash entire (I was told to do that on the cobalt forums) the file I received from the seller and instead of being required to license it I was given an error message that the calibrations conflicted. I am assuming it is because he had it previously licensed for his car. I had already licensed my cars original file.

    I read on here that I just need to open my original car file and then the GMS1 file as a compare and then use the differences log to copy over all the changes and then save as a new file. That is what I did. Here is the file:

    http://www.mediafire.com/download/90..._9_16_2013.hpt

    I then flashed the car with write configuration and logged it. Other than a few odd jerk/coughs at WOT in second for the first few tries the car then ran great. Was real smooth, boost was almost to 21psi and the LTFT was back to zero. I logged the car again (of course after the hicups which I am pissed I didn't catch).

    Log file is here: http://www.mediafire.com/download/tf...redGMS1log.hpl

    NOW the BIG QUESTIONS that I have been leading up to is: Did I do this correctly? Do I need to get a GMS1 file from a different origin and then write entire? Should I trust that the car was tuned by the previous owner off of a GMS1 base tune?

    This is my first time ever tuning/flashing a car and is my daily driver so I just want to make sure I did things correctly and will not damage my vehicle.

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    i will post a file up for you. it should net around 23 psi and have some cam changes for cruising. some fuel injection window shifting may be necessary for reducing kr up top.

    open your original file with the vin of the car attached to it in the editor. open this file as a compare file. if the tables are different copy the table data from the compare and paste it into your file. do not uplaod it straight into the ecu. vin match error will result and you will be at the dealer getting a new flash from a tech2 scanner.

    use the config file in your vcm scanner and record a nice drive.
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    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    drive smoothly, if your eratic and quick changing on the throttle the data will not be very accurate.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman