Help me get off the ground with some basics? Im a newbee with a fresh built 3800 GTP

[PeterbuiltGTP]

Hi all I am Peter. I am starting from scratch here this project just hit the street with 180 miles on a new engine break in and a flashed to stock pcm. Below is a list of mods done and attached is a scan of a warm up to operating temp at an idol and a short drive below 40 mph. If I can get some one to look at my logs and config and point me I would be grateful.

I would like to start with the idol and warm up. I catch on quick I think! up to 1995 I was on top of drivability but at an independent shop so I dropped off around 1990 models, I have some learning to do!

I can reserve a dyno any time locally but I am not ready for that yet. I will take baby steps.


Engine/Powertrain-
3800 Gen ll supercharged engine.
3.4" supercharger pulley and K&N cone filter .
2 heat range cooler plugs,
MAF screen removed,
poly motor mounts.
180 degree t-stat.
Alternator rewire kit, with voltage booster kit.
3" catless downpipe with u-bend delete.
Rear O2 delete.
75 shot Nitrous
Stock (white) injectors and fuel pump.
Custom tuned PCM for all mods above. N/A PCM Flashed to stock
ZZP 3” High flow stainless resonator
ZZP 3" Exhaust
ZZP 3” Dual tip stainless muffler’s
• ZZP Cam 220°/230° at .050"
• Intake Lift .507"
• Exhaust Lift .507"
90# valve springs with hardened retainers
Double roller timing chain set
Fresh ZZP Short block 9.5-1 compression
Fresh valve grind
ZZP 10mm plug wires,

Audio-
JVC cd deck with adapter to use factory steering wheel controls,
wireless remote. Cable for ipod/mp3/smartphone to play music. Factory
Bose system with components front and rear.
2 12" Kenwood subs with amp
radar Detector.
18" ATS Planet wheels with 245/45R18 z rated tires.
Exterior/suspension-
Clear corner lenses, Silver star bulbs. 30% window tint. Daytona 500
package comes with heat extractor scoops in hood, wind gates on the
roof, custom rear spoiler, OEM Daytona 500 16" alloy wheels
Lowered 1" with Eibach springs and KYB GR2 struts .
Carbon Fiber strut tower brace.
billet spacers to lift the engine off the cradle to keep
the drive axle alignment close to stock.
A-pillar gauge pod with Gloshift gauges.

[5FDP]

What year is the car/pcm?

Put that MAF screen back in, its helps alot more than you think.

So we have a ZZP short block with the NA compression ratio instead of the L67 8:5.1 correct???

Are there any other flow mods besides the cam and 3in downpipe? Like a plog or headers??

Just for quick stuff right off that bat, you can swap around fan temps for the cooler thermostat. Go into the DTC's page and set the rear o2 codes to no report and EGR codes if you arent running one. The rear o2 delete works fine on 97-00 models but 01+ is different because of the cat test.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/remov...know-7092.html

[PeterbuiltGTP]

Thanks! It's a 2000 Daytona 500 Silver anniversary GTP. I just saw it and said they aren't building that one any more!

The rear manifold is not OEM looks more like a header and the OEM manifold came with the car along with a ton of OEM parts swapped out. Its 3" clear pipe all the way to the mufflers. I had that done from the downpipe back. It really needs more back pressure for street driving in my opinion, I could see a lot more low end power with some.

I don't see the MAF screen in the parts bin, and your correct I went with the Higher 9.5-1 pistons.

The EGR valve is present I am not sure if there is some form of omit behind the scenes though. Is there a big advantage to removing it and plugging it?
GTP ENG.jpg

[PeterbuiltGTP]

I am assuming the rear o2 sensor is labeled "H02S Bank 2" And all references under DTCs should be unchecked?

[PeterbuiltGTP]

I am trying to locate full descriptions for the acronym's eg: CKP sensor, and LTB1 STB1 etc. any suggestions where to look?

[5FDP]

Back pressure is a myth, cars with free flowing exhaust make 1 psi if that.

These 3800's HATE restrictive exhaust, you want and much flow as you can get so you don't get alot of KR. Though running a 3in exhaust is not always need until around 350 whp+.

The front manifold is restrictive because of the way its cast, thats why most upgrade to a powerlog front manifold or just do headers. I went the header route because it was cheap.

The rear o2 is something like oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2, set that to "no error reported" and leave the box unchecked.

The egr is pretty useless on these motors and keeps the intake nice and clean aswell as the TB blade, I don't run one in my car. Its very easy to tune around the problem. Set all the EGR codes to no report then you can go into the timing tables and add in more timing for freeway rpms/speeds to regain the 1-2 mpg you lose when taking it out.

I've spent some time bumming around on the freeway and I'm able to get 30-32 freeway mpgs on longer trips.

[PeterbuiltGTP]

Thanks for your help. I found my way around the DTC and killed all the O2 bank 2 reporting and set the fan settings to keep the temp in check. I did a side by side compare with the tuned file that the car came with. I stayed in the DTC section and flashed back some changes I saw as obvious. This stabilized the idol real nice and now I can hear the fire breathing cam lope sweetly. A drive around the block was much better.

I am going for a highway shot later today and see what jumps out in the scan. Thanks for all your help this could be addictive!

[c.u]

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9552

[PeterbuiltGTP]

Thanks! I think I recognize most of them on that page. Where I am tripped up is for example on the HPTuner scanner page "Gauge display", "LTB1" ? I do a search in help and on the forum and nota? I can guess the B1 is bank 1. also STB1? There must be a searchable page to identify these and the many others throughout the application?

[c.u]

LT stands for long term fuel trims and ST is short term fuel trims. Use the help and look in contents and keep on reading. You may want to use charts over gauges at this time.

[PeterbuiltGTP]

Thanks for your patients CU and 5FDP I am studying! It's going to click sometime!

[PeterbuiltGTP]

I hate to say it but I just can't devote the time to learn this process the summer is coming to an end. I am taking the car to a tuner shop and keeping my day job. I have a question though. since the rebuild I do have a miss and it scans misfire. I am running Autolite 104 s gaped at 30ks and the tuning shop says go back to 606s and gap them at 32ks keeping in mind the nitrous 75 shot? They say the two down heat range is bad advice? I have a set of double platinum ready to go in gaped at 32 Ks any arguments??

[5FDP]

When you install a cam, you need to delete the P0300 code, it will always keep tripping it.

What is "ks"??

The gap should be around .050 with those plugs, running those 104's is just fine. Though you always want to the run the hottest spark you can its just that with you running NOS, those 104's will be just fine.

You can never ever run platinum plugs in a 3800, the waste spark ignition system will eat them alive. Thats why modded cars run coppers and stock cars run delco iridiums.

[PeterbuiltGTP]

I have the 104 coppers in now gaped at 40Ks... sorry! 0.40 It sets a code at cold start bank202 expected voltage low. I am pretty sure I have all the bank202 DTCs cleared. Driving I have a miss at moderate out of the hole and up, down the freeway it sounds fantastic and has all the power. At an idol it feels like the firing order is off. I have 10 mil new wires and the coil packs are fine, the plugs all look like they came out of the box. but im thinking the stock injectors have 160,000 miles on them and I should change them up to 45# , I have the 35# whites. I don't go to the tuner until 09/03 [I] would like to have all the mechanical problems done ahead. That's a $750.00 day with no defects! I will flash in the po300 omit do a drive and post the scan. I really thank you for your help.

[5FDP]

I would try upping the gap a little.

But from what I seen and what everyone else finds out is that once a 3800 has an aftermarket cam they tend to misfire at idle all the time but normally go away with any throttle.

The code you are seeing you can just set that to 3 "no error reported" then the code wont come up anymore.

If you havent yet, try and get a MAF screen back in like we've said before, it can help alot.

[Mike1995]

I agree with the MAF statement. This has been beaten to the death in the 3800 community. Keep the screen.

[JerryPH]

It sets a code at cold start bank202 expected voltage low.

Clearing codes does not address the problem, it just clears the light from your dash.

If you meant a P0202, this means that the PCM detected a fault in the injector or the wiring to the injector.

The PCM monitors the injector and when the injector is activated, the PCM expects to see the voltage pulled "low" or close to zero. When the injector is switched off, the PCM expects to see a voltage that is close to battery voltage or "high". If it doesn't see the expected voltage the PCM will set this code. The PCM also monitors resitance in the circuit. If the resistance is excessively low or high it will set this code.

The symptoms for this code will likely be a misfire and a rough running engine. Poor acceleration. The MIL will also be illuminated.

Possible causes

The causes of a P0202 engine light code could be any of the following:
• Bad or dirty injector. This is usually the cause of this code but doesn't rule out the possibility of one of the other causes
• Open in the wiring to the injector
• Short in the wiring to the injector
• Bad PCM

I'd address it, BEFORE further tuning, especially WOT tuning.

BTW, a lot of this post was simply a copy/paste from here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0202