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Thread: Holley 5 bar Map with 0411 ECM

  1. #1
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    Holley 5 bar Map with 0411 ECM

    Anyone know if it can be used reliably? Voltage range seems to be a little less. .5 to 4.5V vs the .0v to 5v of the GM 3 bar unit.

    I am looking for a screw in MAP for my Whipple.

    Should note that this will be a SD tune. No MAF to fit the Dominator throttle body.
    Last edited by grendel; 06-03-2013 at 09:50 AM.

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
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    Not sure why you would want to do it, but you could make it happen if you wanted. Your boost wouldn't read properly, but you could write a PID to show actual boost. You're not really going to try to run over 30psi boost are you?
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blownbluez06 View Post
    Not sure why you would want to do it, but you could make it happen if you wanted. Your boost wouldn't read properly, but you could write a PID to show actual boost. You're not really going to try to run over 30psi boost are you?
    Oh, maybe . It's a 427 LSX with 6 bolt heads

    It's not really the 5 BAR that I am looking for, but the screw in capability, so I can clean up the blower intake.

    Know of a 3bar screw in MAP with a 5v reference signal? Can't find one that is plug and play.
    Last edited by grendel; 06-04-2013 at 09:59 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    I make plug and play MAP sensors for the AC Delco plug, but it isn't screw-in type. You'd have to clamp it down.

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    Our look for an absolute pressure transducer.

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    AEM has several screw in transducers. They have a 2 bar and a 3.5 bar that you can buy most anywhere. Ballenger Motorsports is one.
    Jaime

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSteck View Post
    I make plug and play MAP sensors for the AC Delco plug, but it isn't screw-in type. You'd have to clamp it down.
    Sorry, that wouldn't work. I have a plate on the blower I can drill and tap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ElecTech View Post
    AEM has several screw in transducers. They have a 2 bar and a 3.5 bar that you can buy most anywhere. Ballenger Motorsports is one.
    Those are .5v to 4.5V I thought?

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    Quote Originally Posted by grendel View Post
    Those are .5v to 4.5V I thought?
    So are the GM sensors
    Jaime

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    Quote Originally Posted by ElecTech View Post
    So are the GM sensors
    Thanks for that, I've read they max out at 5v, not 4.5v.

    Then the one I have will work.

    I could also go with one of the AEM's I found on Summit.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendel View Post
    Thanks for that, I've read they max out at 5v, not 4.5v.

    Then the one I have will work.

    I could also go with one of the AEM's I found on Summit.
    0.5-4.5 V is the linear range where the AEM sensor is the most accurate, but it is still a 0-5V device.
    Jaime

  12. #12
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
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    Which LSX block do you have, 1st or 2nd generation? I had the first gen and blew the cylinder out where the water jacket is exposed the first time I hit 30psi. GM was kind enough to take care of the replacement block portion of the new build and I found it interesting how they reinforced the water jackets on all the cylinders. Since I posted up about my dilemma, others have let me know they experienced the same issue.
    If you have the 1st generation, keep that in mind. The warranty process is not easy and they told my engine guy that they're pretty much done warrantying any 1st gen blocks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by blownbluez06 View Post
    Which LSX block do you have, 1st or 2nd generation? I had the first gen and blew the cylinder out where the water jacket is exposed the first time I hit 30psi. GM was kind enough to take care of the replacement block portion of the new build and I found it interesting how they reinforced the water jackets on all the cylinders. Since I posted up about my dilemma, others have let me know they experienced the same issue.
    If you have the 1st generation, keep that in mind. The warranty process is not easy and they told my engine guy that they're pretty much done warrantying any 1st gen blocks.
    Thanks for the concern. I have a block that's been tested for wall thickness, etc. It's a late model block (reinforced, etc) that has been built for boost, thus the 427 CI over something bigger.
    Last edited by grendel; 06-08-2013 at 11:40 AM.

  14. #14
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
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    Mine had no core shift either. Plenty of wall thickness.

    I'm glad to hear you have the later model reinforced block. I expect it'll hold up to anything you can throw at it.
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

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    Looks like you had some detonation?

  16. #16
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendel View Post
    Looks like you had some detonation?
    Looks? Not much to look at and the pistons are in good shape. I won't deny the detonation since I was surprised at the 30psi I yielded on that pass, but that's the last thing I would expect to happen with detonation. I would expect the rods to come out the side of the block before this happened. GM knows it's an issue or they wouldn't have changed the design. The head gaskets were in good shape too.
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.