nitrous guru questions

[jpliss]

So I have a 1999 TA with a 6.0 GMPP crate with heads, cam ls6 intake.

63lbs injectors racetronix 340 pump hotwired.

Tuned down to 10.5 commanded afr and engaging NOS with a rpm window switch will start at 3500

Will adjust as necessary depending on how the car takes it.

This is an automatic car

My question is should I disable the N2O just before the gear change or since it is an auto keep the spray engaged?

Sorry to ask such a newb but am no gas guru

[Ben Charles]

Are you using dry nitrous??

You can spray through the shifts I have customers do it all the time, but I prefer to have a window switch for longevity

10.5 is way to rich btw

[NXZ28]

I always sprayed through the shifts with in my 02 Camaro with a stock 4L60. The 2-3 shift started to hesistate after about 50 passes. I agree with Ben about the window switch. I broke the ring gear once and the window switch shut the spray off and ultimately saved my motor.

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

a window switch will minimize the risk that you may incur, for afr tune for 11.5-12 to be on the safe side.

[LSxpwrdZ]

Nitrous doesnt need to be tuned like a turbo car.... rich is bad on nitrous. Learn to read plugs! Def put a window switch on it at least. If its a dry shot you don't need a window as if the limiter is hit ALL fuel will be cut and a lean condition will not occur. The problem with fuel cut on the limiter with wet shots is there is still enough fuel on the wet kit to ignite when the injector fuel is cut for the limiter causing an extreme lean condition in a oxygen enriched environment... you melt stuff in that case generally if you are aggressive with timing.

[Zero4488]

We run our nitrous car 12.5-13.0 on the afr with 200hp worth of nitrous on a stock long block. I'd say a window switch if it's a dry shot. Otherwise just let it ride.

[jpliss]

sorry been so long to respond

Thank you all for the info

This is a wet kit

I do have a window switch on at 3k off at 62k shift 65K but I may change this based on your info.

I am pretty fluent with plug reading. I wanted to read them since I am getting no knock but since I am leary of the knock sensors this is always a good way to check
They show no indications of knock, are not wet black or any other negative. They are clean slightly brown and no indications of electrode or ground strap erosion

yes 10 way to rich started there and am currently at 12.5 to 12.8 based on your info I leaned it out and will stay near this afr.

I will say it actually seemed to run better with the 150 shot when it comes to afr.

Would anyone be willing to share some timing info? I want to make sure I don't go to far but want to get the most I can

By the way again thank you for being info helpful.

[mecanicman]

When your at the track put a fresh set of tr6's in. Drive the car minimally and shut it down when you go through the top end of the track. Pull the plugs and you should be able to to see the heat mark on the strap. I say start at 16 degrees and bump two degrees each time until you see what is going on. Stop the timing when the heat mark hits the bend in the strap. The plugs can be reused run after run as long as you dont drive in between. If you do put a fresh set in. You also want to see the plug burn clean, should not be sooty.

[jpliss]

NGK TR6 plug?

Hmm ill try that been using the CR42TS AC delco which seems to work well

Ill look at that heat mark.

Yep currently no soot, nice clean touch of light brown on the ceramic with no other marks

[mecanicman]

You can use any plug you want, tr6's are just easiar to see. I usually buy a few sets and put fresh ones in as required. Once the timing is sorted you can put the previous plugs back in, just need to be able to see the heat mark from the run.

[jpliss]

Well so far so good. It is much leaner and does run pretty darn good.

This car seems to like some timing for some reason but hey it runs good its not lean no knock and isnt broke. I call that a good day.

Thank you for all the info has been very helpful

[LSxpwrdZ]

Dont put a durn TR6 plug in there to spray on... Not cold enough and is a projected tip plug. If you wanna melt some tips or create a hot spot for detonation use those. You need at least a NGK 3346 or 4091 which are non-projected 7's.

Timing depends on the fuel being used, cylinder head efficiency, camshaft etc. When tuning I start off with ~13* pull for a 62 jet. Thats plenty safe to start and work your way up based on plugs and trap speed.