bought this tune to receive 1-yr warranty on built transmission.
Close-Ratio Level-3 4L60E Automatic Transmission:
19X five-pinion rear planet
6-pinion E Gear front planetary (2.84 1st and 1.567 2nd gear ratios)
Sonnax Smart Tech Drum for 3-4 clutch Pack
B&M Pro-Stick Shifter - custom console installation
2 External Transmission Coolers mounted in series (bypass radiator)
ATI Lock-Up Stall Converter - approx 2600 RPM stall
Last edited by JamesLinder; 01-31-2014 at 07:45 PM.
Did you get this tune from PATC?? and will it work for any 4L60E??
you have a lock up converter and your tune setup mot to lock up .
Yes I have a lock up convertor...
A built trans like that will use different pressures than a stock one. I wouldn't just use it blindly.
2007 Corvette C6 Vert. A6
LME LS402, Pat G custom cam, ATI 10% OD Damper
Circle D triple disc 2600, 3.42 Diff
YSI, 3.0 pulley, ID 1000's
Alky Control Meth,
ARH 1 7/8 headers,
1009 RWHP @ 7000, 817 RWT @ 6000
Still leaves full range of modulation on the TCC duty,
not necessarily helpful for a small diameter converter.
Ditto the full blowoff at 0% commanded line, which
you will see at low cruise and possibly slip something.
Desired shift times are populated nonzero, with no
evident sense to them, but allowing the trans to go
"learning", like it or not.
Shift pressures are not "all in", ever, on 1-2 oe 2-3
and the 3-4, only at 600+ lb-ft. So you're not using
all the pressure that's available. I'd be logging with
some care, looking for signs of frictions slipping.
Still some torque management attempted.
JamesLinder What Trans tune do you recommend to use that you posted for a built trans with a stall of 3200???
If you still need this let me know. I guess I did not get a notification about your inquiry back in October.
No sir. But thank you. I have it figured out now
I would be curious about this as well. I am floundering a bit with my first trans tune.
what is it specifically that you need help with?
you need to retain some degree of torque reduction during shifting to prevent damage to the transmission.
Force motor settings and shift times are also critical to avoid damage. I would recommend posting your
tune file and I can then tell you what I would recommend changing to yield performance without destruction.
Fair enough. I will post it up when I arrive back home. It is mainly just odd how it shifts currently. Built 4l80e 4000 rpm stall. Seems to bog down the motor when it goes to 4th just cruising. I followed a "p erformance trans tuning guide" and not sure if it was right or not.
Does your converter remain locked up when cruising and during the shift from 3rd to 4th when this bogging down occurs?
Shifting into 4th at low speeds does put you into the high load - low RPM range and will bog all motors down; is there
something about the bogging down you are experiencing that is more drastic than what one would consider typical?
This is a situation where knock will occur if timing is advanced to much when the shift occurs or the converter locks
up after the shift occurs if this occurs at an RPM that is too low for compression ratio, etc.
Do you find you like allowing the converter to remain locked during shifts; this leads to best performance?
It just seems as though it is shifting too early into 4th really. No knock, just seems like the motor is really struggling. My thought was to raise the mph when this shift occurs. Also not sure that the line pressure and shift time is right either. I have heard a couple theories on this. Some say on a built trans you want higher line and quick shift times to avoid slipping the clutches to make it last. Not sure if this applies to all throttle levels? Others say leave pressures close to stock as the shift kit itself will allow for added pressure.Thoughts?
The first thing I would do is revise (lower) the 4th gear converter lock-up "release" speeds in the table labeled "Apply/Release
Speed Normal" under the tab labeled "Auto TCC". These should be LOWER than the "apply" speeds located several rows higher
up in the table. In other words, as you slow down while remaining in 4th gear, the converter should unlock once you are below
the speed at which the converter was told to lock up when you were increasing your speed in 4th gear, but not so low that it
lugs the motor and could cause the drive train to start jerking if you should have a large duration camshaft. I would also make
certain that the speeds at which your transmission is set to shift from 3rd into 4th in the "cruise" area occurs BEFORE the converter
is set to lock up. If you look at the last table for the apply release speeds labeled "Performance" under "Auto TCC", this one already
has the correct release values you should be using the "Normal" table for 4th gear row values for the first 7 entries from lowest throttle
position (column 1) and the next 5 columns taking you up to a TP of 31.25%. Let's try this first.
Question: did your performance guide tell you to enable lock-up during shifts? I would not change this yet, because it could be that
you have a special lock-up clutch in your converter that can handle this sort of thing.
For the two tables under "Force Motor Current" under tab labeled "Auto Shift Properties", change all the values in the 100% TP column
(the last column to the right in both tables) to 49 from top to bottom. It is a mistake to lighten up the force like this as the stock OEM
setting does. When you are hammering the throttle 100% if when you want the maximum clamping power.
I guess a 4L80E is so stout that it allows you to do away with torque reduction altogether, which I could never do with my built 4L60E.
Be careful using my table values without checking with me since I have a full manual valve body in my transmission and therefore there
are many table values that have NO IMPACT at all on how my transmission shifts.
Shift time by being too long for a built transmission can cause the 3 - 4 clutch pack to burn up because the electric solenoid is preventing
the shift to complete as soon as it should. Going too fast on the shift times seems to burn up some stock and built transmissions I assume
because it does not allow the clutches enough time to slip while shifting gears - that is, they stay engaged while trying to shift and over time
good bye clutch plates. As you can see, we performed dyno-testing on my transmission to determine how long the shift times needed to be
so that electrical shift times were nearly identical to the required mechanical shift times. If your transmission were mine, I would not set
any shift times to zero and risk damage.
Cool, I will check into your suggestions when I get home and can look through them. Thank you so much for the help. The car is not much fun to drive right now, was not fun on "stock" settings either. I just do not want to burn up a $2800 trans lol.
Just fyi, if you find that your torque converter lock up does not occur when it should but is delayed sometimes, this
could be because your camshaft is making your PCM believe it is detecting misfires. There are changes you can make
to misfire tables under the engine diagnosis tab to eliminate this problem from occurring; let me know if you need this.
In general, my experience is that leaving the converter unlocked leads to better drivability at low RPMs in all gears,
however you have a tremendously HIGH stall for a street vehicle. I would limit stall on street vehicle to around 3200
RPM, and for my newest stroker motor I reduced stall all the way down to 2400 RPM because it had plenty of torque
and the 408 CI displacement made the 230 duration camshaft more well behaved at low RPM. 2700 to 2800 RPM is great
stall speed for a street machine. With so much stall you may have to leave converter locked up as much as possible to
avoid getting into stall when it is not necessary and to avoid getting terrible gas mileage. If your camshaft is not on the
extreme side, you will enjoy your vehicle a lot more with less stall in the converter in my opinion. Don't get me wrong,
if you spend the majority of your time racing the car on the track, then the higher stall is the way to go to get the best
ETs.
Last edited by JamesLinder; 03-08-2014 at 12:28 PM.
Made some of the recommended modifications. We will see how it goes!
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