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Thread: E38/67 Custom OS Addition?

  1. #41
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    It works.



    The ethanol content sensor I bought is apparently bad, which pisses me off. At least I know the tune side works.

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  2. #42
    Nice job!!

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSteck View Post

    It works.



    The ethanol content sensor I bought is apparently bad, which pisses me off. At least I know the tune side works.
    When are you going to be selling this gem?

  4. #44
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    I can build them right now.

  5. #45
    Is it possible to make the steps smaller? Target price? Please PM me if you prefer not to have it on the forum

  6. #46
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    I can make the steps whatever you want.

    I plan to charge $150. It'd include the box and a wire with the proper female terminal for adding to the PCM connector. HPT probably won't want me advertising that, so if it is a problem (this is directed at HPT), delete the info.
    Last edited by DSteck; 04-12-2013 at 11:05 PM.

  7. #47
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    Nitrous Timing box, is that what you are using it for?

  8. #48
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    People can use it for whatever they want. All it does is send a fake fuel composition signal to the PCM. Timing modification would be the primary use for it. I've decided to call it "FlexTime". Lol.

  9. #49
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    So you are using it for manual adjustment of the stoichiometry? so instead of flashing another tune if i wanted to go back to 93 i could just turn a knob? what about that fuel comp sensor you had?
    Last edited by carlrx7; 04-08-2013 at 07:10 PM.

  10. #50
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    I was using the AFR just as an example that it works. Ideally you'd use an actual flex fuel sensor for true pump gas/ethanol adjustments based on blend. The sensor I bought has an internal short. I am just buying a brand new one. Screw this used crap. You could use it to adjust for say... Race gas vs pump gas (example... MS109 has a different stoich from 93). Lots of possibilities.
    Last edited by DSteck; 04-08-2013 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Phone butchered my post

  11. #51
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    That's a nifty lil gadget Dave.

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  12. #52
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    Thanks! It's not worth much without HPT's support though, so big thanks to them for adding the functionality.

    I'll try and get some instructions made outlining how to add the wire to the harness plug. Another company has instructions but I doubt HPT wants that posted here. Lol.

  13. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by DSteck View Post
    Thanks! It's not worth much without HPT's support though, so big thanks to them for adding the functionality.

    I'll try and get some instructions made outlining how to add the wire to the harness plug. Another company has instructions but I doubt HPT wants that posted here. Lol.
    It might be a good idea to add this to our help files as a guide.
    I count sheep in hex...

  14. #54
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    I wish I took pictures when I did my car. I have a bench harness here that I can use for an example though. I'll post it here once I take some photos and maybe a video.

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  15. #55
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    Pin 40 installation on E38 PCMs

    Note: Photos shown are from a bench harness, and consequently are missing a majority of the pins, but the instructions for adding a pin are the same. The blue wire is what represents the pin to be added, and all photos show it added to the Pin 40 location.

    Basic tools:
    Wire stripper
    Decent crimper (no need for the $500 Molex OEM one)
    Very small screw driver and/or wire separation tools

    Parts:
    Female Molex MX64 pin (Mouser part number 538-33467-0005)
    20 or 22 gauge wire



    First, disconnect the battery.

    Crimp the female pin to the wire. Solder if you feel necessary, but keep the solder on the crimp only.




    Disconnect the J1 connector from the PCM. This is a 73 pin connector, and is on the left if looking at it on a Corvette. Pin 40 is the Flex Fuel frequency input (shown below).


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  16. #56
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    Pop the cover off of the connector by prying up the clips on the sides.



    Flip the connector over and use a screwdriver to gently pry up the black plastic plug covering the pins.




    Some connectors will use blue plugs to block off unused holes. These can be removed from the top side. If your connector has the black molded in plugs, you need to break them loose from the top side, but remove them from the side that physically connects to the PCM. Some gentle pressure will break these loose. Be careful not to break the retainer inside the J1 connector.

    You are now ready to add the new pin. You can try pushing it from the outside in, but it is typically easier to take the bare wire and push it from the inside out, pulling the pin into place rather than pushing it. Be sure it is oriented the same way the other pins in the row are. Gently pull the wire until the pin is flush with the others. It should click into place.



    Once this is done, gently push the black terminal alignment plug back into place and replace the cover on the connector.

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  17. #57
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    So what exactly will I need and need to do in order to have my car tuned to run on e85 and not have to worry about the actual ethanol level %? I don't need to be able to switch between gas and e85, I just don't want to worry about the e85 % from station to station or winter/spring/summer blend.

    The car in question is a 2011 c6 manual grand sport with the dry sump engine.

  18. #58
    Senior Tuner LSxpwrdZ's Avatar
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    If you desire seeing the physical ethanol content then you need to use this input with an actual ethanol sensor to read the ethanol percentage and report this back to the PCM.

    The device Dave has created is a signal generator for us guys that are wanting to manipulate fueling/timing on the fly for such things like nitrous or two different type fuels. With the right fuel system you can spray a hefty size shot of nitrous and have full control of fueling vs RPM and timing vs rpm vs load on the fly.

    Dave, flat out awesome what you have done here!!! Love it!

    Now is it possible to keep adding support to OS's in the E67 and E40 variants?
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  19. #59
    Senior Tuner DSteck's Avatar
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    James is right about using a real sensor. That's what I'm doing on my Z06. It'd be done already if the eBay sensor I bought wasn't internally shorted out.

    As far as E40/E67 support... It's a matter of finding the right pin to hit with the frequency. If somebody wants to donate a PCM to me (which may get fried), I'll go one by one and find them. I know they exist.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSteck View Post
    It's something the other guys have enabled with a modified operating system. Totally different concept.
    Yeh, I installed that on a 2010 Camaro back in 2010 but never used it. I have both softwares but use HPT for the Camaro and the other one for the 2003 Silvy because of the COS for Nitrous. Also use it on a NNBS 2007 Silvy with a Maggie and Nitrous.

    I asked support@HPT a couple months ago "On there site it said that they can't read your COS because it's locked but that theirs is not locked just that HPT does not recognize their OS.


    How about using HPT to run the E85 tables like them could that be done? There is a wire that I hooked up almost 3 years ago into the ECM that when grounded(or install an actual E85 sensor) you run off the E85 tables or combination thereof."

    And was told "We have no plans to add additional features to our custom operating systems."

    Glad I don't have to switch it now that I removed the nitrous and installed twins on the Camaro. DSteck, I switched to the 2.5Bar COS and used the ZR-1 MAP sensor per your recommendation. I want to use the E-85 tables to adjust timing and fuel when the methanol spray. Can that be done?

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