Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: flash now NO POWER to car

  1. #1
    Potential Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    7

    flash now NO POWER to car

    Ok I got all bugs worked out then went to flash a tune key was in the on position. Then clicked to started it now Nothing can not even roll up windows what did I do. My wife is pist I just got it to finally crank over and start now lost all power to vehicle battery is 12volts with meter but on the other side where the fuse block is its only 6 now what did i do. Again key on went to click over to start after flash complete something bad happened now nothing. No accesories or anything door chime only when I ulplug Hptuners from OBD2 but still no power windows or start heck ANYTHING.

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner Montecarlodrag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Pegasus Galaxy
    Posts
    919
    Hard to know because you didn't say which car/year is it and what did you change.

    Unplug battery for 10 min then test again
    9 sec Montecarlo SS

  3. #3
    Potential Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    7
    sorry its a 2000 firebird just started for the first time today. Its a Lq4 went in hptuners to change injector sizes it didnt want to start. So i had the laptop plugged into the house via extension cord. Flashed vcm with key in on postion and then finished flash went to click on to start car baam. Nothing at all now no power to anything it will ding twice thats its. Brand new battery and cables

    PLEASE HELP

    I cant even scan when I plug into obd2 the dinging quits what did i FRY

  4. #4
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    25
    Your suppose to use battery power only, sounds like you fried the PCM and possibly the HPT interface.
    1998 Trans Am

    5.3 | E85 | S476r | Powerglide | 8.8 | 3660 lbs
    Personal Best - 10s @ 142 mph - 8120 DA

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Forney, TX
    Posts
    982
    Quote Originally Posted by lt1ray View Post
    Your suppose to use battery power only, sounds like you fried the PCM and possibly the HPT interface.
    Before you go assuming you cooked anything, get your volt meter out and run some tests. Volts across the battery, volts from the battery hot to various grounds under the hood will help prove ground integrity. Turn the key on and test again. Once you begin to apply loads to circuits things change. You need to know what it's doing with a load. If you lose voltage with the key on, you have a bad connection or battery. To isolate the bad connection, use the method I mentioned, referencing one side of the battery and various points. Reference battery ground and jump around various hot points looking at the voltage. Then reference battery + and hit various ground points. Do this with the key on and maybe additional load applied like headlights etc. If you see a huge voltage drop at any point, you have a bad connection.
    When referencing battery hot and poking grounds if you lose voltage at any test point, it's got a bad ground. When referencing battery ground and poking around the hots, if you lose voltage, it's got a bad hot feed.
    Just because I've seen it a few times before, if you're running a side post battery, just because you have good voltage across the battery bolts doesn't mean you have good voltage across the cables. I've seen all kinds of crazy sh!t from cross threaded bolts to horrible corrosion at the connection that will make it show good voltage across the bolts and nothing across the cables.
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,931
    post is 3 months old, he had it fixed and running.

  7. #7
    Senior Tuner
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,084
    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicman View Post
    post is 3 months old, he had it fixed and running.
    In his defence, this thread was bumped up by a spammer whose post has since been removed.

  8. #8
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Forney, TX
    Posts
    982
    Quote Originally Posted by planethax View Post
    In his defence, this thread was bumped up by a spammer whose post has since been removed.
    Yeah, didn't catch the date, but it was at the top of the heap, so I answered it. Thanks for explaining what happened.
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

  9. #9
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    225
    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicman View Post
    post is 3 months old, he had it fixed and running.
    What was the cause of his problem?