Spark plug gap

[The_Ghost]

I've been told by people to replace the plugs in my 08 Solstice GXP because of a cold issue I'm having. The sticker on the hood says gap at .035. People here said to gap at .028-.030. I do have a tune in it (have no clue who did the tune), I get 21psi of boost, have high flow cat and solo race exhaust. What should I gap the new AC Delco 41-108 (factory) at??? Any help is appreciated!

[rnjmur]

I have my plugs gapped at .035 (factory) and running 23psi and have never had spark blowout. Since every tune and car is different though it is hard to know how your car will react. The only way to really know is to set them at factory gap and see if you get misfires. If you do, then drop it 1/1000th and retest and repeat until you no longer have misfires. The most important thing to remember is you want the BIGGEST gap possible without getting spark blowout.

[projectlnf]

i have ngk 1 step colder and i gapped mine at .028 anything bigger than that i get blow out. :/

[Iam Broke]

i have ngk 1 step colder and i gapped mine at .028 anything bigger than that i get blow out. :/

Worked the best in my LNF @ 24 psi also used 1 step coler plugs.

[projectlnf]

Worked the best in my LNF @ 24 psi also used 1 step coler plugs.

im actually going 2 step colder today to test them out. ill let you guys know how it feels and runs

[LNFnewb]

which NGK's are 1 step colder?

[projectlnf]

which NGK's are 1 step colder?

6509 is the ngk number

[Iam Broke]

You need to find the Laser Iridiums a step colder, the 6509's aren't the correct style and come pregapped to .044, pretty hard & not recommended to gap down to .028.

I'll have to search out the correct Laser Iridium number as I forgots it right now. They don't make a LI two steps colder, or they didn't in the past.

EDIT: Stock plugs are Laser Iridiums, 5476, ITLR5D
One step colder Laser Iridiums are 3787, ILTR6A-8D and I still can't find them in a 7 heat range.

Try the 3787's.

[projectlnf]

You need to find the Laser Iridiums a step colder, the 6509's aren't the correct style and come pregapped to .044, pretty hard & not recommended to gap down to .028.

I'll have to search out the correct Laser Iridium number as I forgots it right now. They don't make a LI two steps colder, or they didn't in the past.

EDIT: Stock plugs are Laser Iridiums, 5476, ITLR5D
One step colder Laser Iridiums are 3787, ILTR6A-8D and I still can't find them in a 7 heat range.

Try the 3787's.

well shoot im glad i didnt put those 6510 in mine yet lol they are iridiums but those are the 2 step colder but they arent laser iridium

[Iam Broke]

Ya, I ran the 6509's for a while without issue, but then I found the correct ones. It's a b!tch to gap a .044 plug down to .030 and it looks funny. lol. I can't see you needing a 7 hr plug unless you are around 500 whp. I was 360whp/400wtq on the LNF and the 3787's looked just a tad cool to my eye.

[projectlnf]

Ya, I ran the 6509's for a while without issue, but then I found the correct ones. It's a b!tch to gap a .044 plug down to .030 and it looks funny. lol. I can't see you needing a 7 hr plug unless you are around 500 whp. I was 360whp/400wtq on the LNF and the 3787's looked just a tad cool to my eye.

well to be honest i got the 6510's for a later date when i do go over 500 which hopefully should be next winter im starting with buying the small stuff first and i get those from our parts dealer cuz i work at a shop. ill just hold off since i dont need them now but i am 389whp right now im going to get the zfr turbo neutral balancing shafts, im fabbing up a plate for inbetween the intake mani and head to put 4 port injectors i dont want the 5th injector from zzp, im putting zzp stg one cams and the supertech valve springs in it. and hopefully ill hit somewhere around 600 thats my goal.

[Iam Broke]

I'm not familiar with the LSJ plugs, but those in a 7 hr might be a better fit than the 6510's.

[The_Ghost]

Alright....replaced the plugs. Still no difference. I had someone tell me that it might be the CAT starting go.... I was thinking maybe the person that tuned it left it in the warmup mode for the CAT a little longer? I've been told by other Solstice owners that the CAT warmup mode only lasts until the car automatically idles itself down. The other possibility that was brought up was the knock retard might have been set wrong at startup. I know that I have no rev limiter anymore....and this could be bad with me seeing as how it was at 7200 last night and was still pulling hard!! So I guess I'm going to have to break down and get a tuner suite from here...

[LNFnewb]

Alright....replaced the plugs. Still no difference. I had someone tell me that it might be the CAT starting go.... I was thinking maybe the person that tuned it left it in the warmup mode for the CAT a little longer? I've been told by other Solstice owners that the CAT warmup mode only lasts until the car automatically idles itself down. The other possibility that was brought up was the knock retard might have been set wrong at startup. I know that I have no rev limiter anymore....and this could be bad with me seeing as how it was at 7200 last night and was still pulling hard!! So I guess I'm going to have to break down and get a tuner suite from here...

What exactly is happening during cold starts for you?

[The_Ghost]

LNFnewb:

I’ll be as detailed as I can, so I apologize for rewording and repeating some of the wording. I start my car and leave it warm up (anywhere from 2 - 5 minutes; and it doesn't matter if I let it run or just take off for the most part). When I get in and go to pull out into traffic, if I go into the boost at all, the car accelerates slower then if I stay out of boost. So in other words, my 0-60 times without boost maybe 12 seconds, if I go into boost it might be 25 seconds, but only that first really hard accel! If I’ve been driving it and the temp is around 150, it seems to be okay that first hard accel….its just when it seems to be under 150 and the first time I go WOT, or get into boost. It seems to fall on its face that first hard accel (unless I’ve been driving it…like I said). It’s like I threw an anchor out the window!! If I do get into the boost (lets say for argument sake a Mack truck is bearing down on me at 60mph and I try to boost it to 20psi), the car literally accelerates slower on me then if I didn't get into any boost range. I can hear the boost pressure coming out the exhaust if I go into the 21psi range when this happens (or out the BOV, I can’t tell). After the first time of it doing this, it does seem to accelerate okay but tends to idle really rough until it reaches the 150/160 degree mark after that. I know until it gets up to around 180, it does tend to snap, crackle and pop a lot. If I get on it and its at 170, it will “backfire” almost between gears if I was in boost. Any help is appreciated!

[projectlnf]

LNFnewb:

I’ll be as detailed as I can, so I apologize for rewording and repeating some of the wording. I start my car and leave it warm up (anywhere from 2 - 5 minutes; and it doesn't matter if I let it run or just take off for the most part). When I get in and go to pull out into traffic, if I go into the boost at all, the car accelerates slower then if I stay out of boost. So in other words, my 0-60 times without boost maybe 12 seconds, if I go into boost it might be 25 seconds, but only that first really hard accel! If I’ve been driving it and the temp is around 150, it seems to be okay that first hard accel….its just when it seems to be under 150 and the first time I go WOT, or get into boost. It seems to fall on its face that first hard accel (unless I’ve been driving it…like I said). It’s like I threw an anchor out the window!! If I do get into the boost (lets say for argument sake a Mack truck is bearing down on me at 60mph and I try to boost it to 20psi), the car literally accelerates slower on me then if I didn't get into any boost range. I can hear the boost pressure coming out the exhaust if I go into the 21psi range when this happens (or out the BOV, I can’t tell). After the first time of it doing this, it does seem to accelerate okay but tends to idle really rough until it reaches the 150/160 degree mark after that. I know until it gets up to around 180, it does tend to snap, crackle and pop a lot. If I get on it and its at 170, it will “backfire” almost between gears if I was in boost. Any help is appreciated!

i know if my car is below 150* temp it will start to boost and the it just shuts down.. not like stalling but its like it doesnt want you to. i know from personal experience i never try to go wot if it isnt up to full running temp because metal expands and you get alot of blow by because the clearances in your motor arent tight yet.. IMO

[|V3nom|]

i think thats a lnf safety feature to keep the motor from being run too hard without being warmed up. weve all been there and done that and hit that imaginery brick wall lol.

i think cobaltssoverbooster has the new version of the lnf (cant remember what its called) that go in the new buicks and it has an extra sensor in the oil, if i remember correctly, that does some witchcraft and lets you go full boost without being fully warmed up.

probably should ask him so he can explain it better.

[The_Ghost]

I have been asking if there was a safety built into the program when it was cold and everyone has told me no. I believe that my "cold start" program has been shut off and I have believed all along that I have MAJOR blow by....

[Iam Broke]

If you think you have major blowby, a compression and leakdown test is in order. May be cracked ringlands.

[The_Ghost]

If you think you have major blowby, a compression and leakdown test is in order. May be cracked ringlands.

I wanted to check the easier stuff first..... I appreciate it Broke!! I will have my buddy check it for me....he's a tech.