Need help with a few quirks!?
Looking for some insight on a few quirks I'm trying to sort out on my 2010 Camaro M6. I've got a Kenne Bell 2.8 LC supercharger, Comp 277hr (624/629 @112 ctr), #8501 .660 springs, 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3" non-catted exhaust, Monster stage 3 clutch with lightweight flywheel (steel). It does use the low-boost bypass valve. I do not have a wideband installed, but plan to do so very soon.
I've had the car dyno tuned and am very happy with the results, other than the blower pulley is for a stock motor, so with the cam/exhaust I'm only running 5psi boost. This is fine for me as I've installed the same exact set up on a few customer cars since with great results (+/- 550 rwhp). Gives a great lumpy idle, with the "old school" sound with out beating the rest of the drivetrain to death, while still delivering 21-23mpg on the freeway. I understand the effects of a big cam on the MAF and the loss of resolution, but I"m not familiar/comfortable enough to mess with some of the stuff even if I'm relatively sure of what I'm doing....
1. Sorry for the long intro, but now for my concern(s). The current tune runs great and pulls hard after about 2500+ rpms, but in my opinion the low end needs some work. The throttle response seems sluggish, and I'd like it to be much snappier from an idle. If the car is moving at idle in 1st gear and you try to stab the throttle, it doesnt pop, backfire or exhibit any bad behavior, it just doesnt have a very impressive response, and makes you use a bit more throttle to get the car moving. I think I need to adjust the Desired Throttle Area and the Area Rate limits tables, but the ecu destruction warning makes me nervous!
2. Although I've been playing with this next issue and have made some improvements, I'd like some proffessional advise. When decelerating from highway speeds to a stop, the car will drop to idle normally and idle just fine as long as the clutch pedal is pressed. If I slip the car into neutral at highway speeds to coast to a stop without holding the clutch down, the car drops to idle then surges to approx 17-1900 rpm, back to idle, and continually repeats until the car comes to a dead stop or the clutch is pressed, then it idles just fine. I did change the Idle Spark advance Costdown table to match the P/N table, and now it only surges once or twice then settles down, but doesn't settle as quickly as I'd like.
3. I've found a couple videos regarding "idle chop tuning" which deals with the idle over/underspeed tables. is this something that would help me make this a snappier package?
4. My last dyno tune was right around 7200 miles, and it's got 10,000 now, and my dyno shop (3 hours away in Chicago) said that as the car breaks in and gets more miles, I'd need to lean it out a little. Is there any truth to this, as it does seem to have a stronger fuel smell, and a little more popping during in-gear decel, but nothing major. I've melted the cats out of it twice, so if there's any truth or merit to leaning it out some I'd love to learn! I have yet to find a cat that I'm comfortable experimenting with after melting the Kooks and a Catco set within a couple thousand miles each.
Overall I'm happy with it, but as a noob to tuning, and an old school hot rodder who's used to the old toilet induction, I'd think I should be able to tune this to be just as snappy? Above 25-3000 the package runs really well and I have no complaints, and it has no hot start issues, no trouble with helping it start, and it rarely dies during it's surging attacks. Just needs help at the bottom end. Thanks!