2010 camaro Tune, ANY PROBLEMS

[Ben Charles]

Guys I haven't done a new camaro yet, but last time I heard there where some problems with reading and writing the new camaro's?

Its an auto and I plan to do it Friday, didn't know if there was any issues still? I am running the 2.23 beta.

[Bill@HPTuners]

The main issue I've heard of is after flashing having to disconnect the battery for a few mins, not sure if its still an issue but we haven't had the resource to look into it much further lately.

[Phil'sC5Vette]

Seems more with the automatic than the manuals, it takes an extra second or two more than normal to start after each upload.

I havent disconnected the battery. The car just has to reset on its own and then there is no issue after tuning. Its a little tough to explain to the client if they are there during the tuning process to "trust me, it wont do it tomorrow". Didnt do it on the last two 2011s I did, but still did it on the
2010s.

Also expect the "AC off because of high tempertures" to show on the DIC while flashing.

Outside that, they tune very well. The A6 is a bit tougher than the A4, so dont blow through the 100's of tables.

[Ben Charles]

it takes an extra second or two more than normal to start after each upload.

Is that just FIRST start after a write calibration?

I havent disconnected the battery. The car just has to reset on its own and then there is no issue after tuning.

Phil what do you mean reset on its own? I have heard of what Bill talks about with unplugging the battery for 10 minutes and then plugging the battery back in. If I get a reduced power mode pop up after I do my Write I will just unplug the battery and then everything be good to go I suppose?

Yea I have seen several A6 tunes that were modded, definately an interesting trans compared to the 4L80E and 60E.

[MikeOD]

Is that just FIRST start after a write calibration?


Phil what do you mean reset on its own? I have heard of what Bill talks about with unplugging the battery for 10 minutes and then plugging the battery back in. If I get a reduced power mode pop up after I do my Write I will just unplug the battery and then everything be good to go I suppose?

Yea I have seen several A6 tunes that were modded, definately an interesting trans compared to the 4L80E and 60E.

No...it's every start unless you let the car sit for 5-10 minutes on it's own with everything off, no key in it, and open the drivers door for a moment (you can close it after you open it, just to shut off the radio and window switches and whatnot) to tell the BCM to shut the interior off...and it's the M6 cars (at least mine is) as well.

You can either unhook the battery for literally 1 second...take the negative cable off, put it back on, the car is absolutely fine, or just let it chill out like I described above 5-10 minutes before you start it.

If I don't let it sit, I get the AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP message on the DIC every time...I also sometimes get SERVICE STABILITRACK, and 1 time, the car turned the check engine light on, and threw EVERY trouble code possible...I feel like I should have hit the OnStar button to ask why my check engine light was on lol...it had SO MANY CODES that I didn't even know were there LOL.

If I have any of those errors as described above, I can send the reset command for DTC's from HPTuners, and the car runs fine, but still starts like crap until I wait, or unhook the battery. It's much more annoying when "street tuning"...if you're on a dyno, just keep the trunk open and have a wrench handy to pop the negative cable off/on really quick after a reflash...you don't lose anything, but you will need to re-teach the windows...just do what the DIC tells you...takes a few seconds.

[MikeOD]

The main issue I've heard of is after flashing having to disconnect the battery for a few mins, not sure if its still an issue but we haven't had the resource to look into it much further lately.

It's still an issue...but you don't even need to disconnect for a few minutes...just an instant.

For what it's worth, it's an HPTuners issue. I've witnessed 4 2010 Camaro SS's have absolutely NO problem with EFILive and TunerCat...but the same cars did exhibit the issue with HPTuners...not that we can't work around it, but I believe it has to do with a reset command sent by the software/cable to the car after a write is completed.

I haven't tried a write entire in my car, only a write calibration...so I don't know if that's any different.

[Ben Charles]

negative cable off/on really quick after a reflash...you don't lose anything, but you will need to re-teach the windows...just do what the DIC tells you...takes a few seconds.

Ok I followed everything you said, but what does "re-teach the windows" mean?

So basically after I perform a write calibration, I just need to pull the negative battery for an instant everytime, lol.

COME ON HPTUNERS

[GPGTP]

No...it's every start unless you let the car sit for 5-10 minutes on it's own with everything off, no key in it, and open the drivers door for a moment (you can close it after you open it, just to shut off the radio and window switches and whatnot) to tell the BCM to shut the interior off...and it's the M6 cars (at least mine is) as well.

You can either unhook the battery for literally 1 second...take the negative cable off, put it back on, the car is absolutely fine, or just let it chill out like I described above 5-10 minutes before you start it.

If I don't let it sit, I get the AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP message on the DIC every time...I also sometimes get SERVICE STABILITRACK, and 1 time, the car turned the check engine light on, and threw EVERY trouble code possible...I feel like I should have hit the OnStar button to ask why my check engine light was on lol...it had SO MANY CODES that I didn't even know were there LOL.

If I have any of those errors as described above, I can send the reset command for DTC's from HPTuners, and the car runs fine, but still starts like crap until I wait, or unhook the battery. It's much more annoying when "street tuning"...if you're on a dyno, just keep the trunk open and have a wrench handy to pop the negative cable off/on really quick after a reflash...you don't lose anything, but you will need to re-teach the windows...just do what the DIC tells you...takes a few seconds.

THIS!!! VERY ANNOYING PITA!!!

[10_SS]

I have one of the newest HPtuners interfaces with a 2010 Camaro LS3 Manual and can flash calibration no problems. Only side affect are delayed starting the first time, and the AC Disabled message will be on until the first startup. The instant it starts, everything returns to normal.

Now, I tried a different Camaro E38 PCM and tried to full flash it and never got the new ECU to link with the BCM, It would run with all security and clutch interlock disabled.. but.. I tried everything minus taking it to the dealer, so the RELINK features do not work in HPTuners for the 2010 Camaro, nor do the manual relink procedures. At least with my setup.

I have not full flashed the stock ECU as I am scared that it will no relink with the BCM, I just write calibration with no problems.

Note: I did run into huge problems when I saved my tune file with HPTuners v2.3 (current beta)? Then wrote it with v2.2... this caused all of the lights to come on the dash, It did start and run but every light was blinking and flashing, gas gauge didnt work, etc. I updated the flashing computer to 2.3, re-flashed calibration, and everything was fine.

[MikeOD]

Ok I followed everything you said, but what does "re-teach the windows" mean?

You'll see when you reconnect the battery and start the car. The Dash will ask you to open and close the windows...just do what it says. It's so they can index properly when you open/close the doors.

[ccrp]

I only have to do it after a full read entire, after that I can write calibration or entire and never ever have to disconnect battery for a second.

many 2010 Silverados do the same thing

[Ben Charles]

Thats good to know, I am now tuning this car early next week. I will let everyone know what happens.

[Iam Broke]

Has anyone done a 'Write Entire' of the previously saved stock file to the E38 ECU in the '10 to '12 Camaros? Wondering if there are any issues.

[ccrp]

no issues, done it a few times back and forth.

[Iam Broke]

Good to know if I ever need to write entire back to stock before sale. Thank you.

[5_Liter_Eater]

Good thread. I just started playing with a friend's 2012 Camaro and exhibited all of this: hard starting, AC disable, stabilitrac. I'm running a ~week old version of the beta. So good to know they are expected and clear up after a few minutes of sitting or battery reset. I also went into REP after changing a bunch of things. Not sure exactly what caused it but I reverted the rev limiter in park, neutral and reverse (trying to do no lift shift) and re-enabled the speed limiter and it cleared that up.

[Phil'sC5Vette]

Good thread. I just started playing with a friend's 2012 Camaro and exhibited all of this: hard starting, AC disable, stabilitrac.

Yep that's what it does after each upload, then a "longer start"

The first couple times on the first couple Gen5s, I was concerned, now I just then the owner before I even start this is what to expect, but it clears out.

doesnt do it on anyother car, and dont bother touching the start up spart table because it goes away.
Phil

[SICK WS 6]

Odd, my 2011 hasn't done any of that after a write cal?

[Iam Broke]

My 2012 does the 'A/C off high engine temp' and cranks a bit longer the first try. 2 week old beta I think.

[MikeOD]

I just learned that it also triggers REP randomly on the initial startup too...if you don't let it sit...triggers REP, shows no DTC...I hit the clear button in VCM Scanner twice, and REP went away and I was able to continue driving...letting the car sit for 15 minutes now before I go out for another ride to make sure there's no more random REP before I drive it to work tomorrow.