that log scares me, after one of the WOT pulls the cams parked themselves in the idle position. Also the signal dropped out on the exhaust cam, RPM, CAT temp, Load... Something seems pretty off to me. I wouldnt be too worried about the KR because its nothing crazy.
try backing your optimal toruqe table off some in the 180 column...it only requires a general smooth of a max of 4 columns after telling the 200 column you want 100 from 3k to max rpm
the exhaust cam does do some funny stuff in that log
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
my cam tables are stock... what should I do?
after viewing my logs I dont see the cams go flat... can you take a screen shot please.
thanks
your kr is tip in kr and if its occuring all the time at a specific rpm then you can tell the tip in knock retard table to take 1 degree out at the rpm range the kr occurs. it only helps for when you smash on the gas pedal and it knocks during that rapid shift from medium load cells to wot cells. once its in wot cells the kr will usually go away.
iirc this is how i fixed my timing dip at wot.....when the computer was knocking at the wot transition it would shift cells so fast the ecu would retard ignition but it was delayed just long enough to end up making the changes in the wot cells instead of during the transition period.
when i made it purposely retard ignition for the transition i lost the logged kr values and also got rid of the dip since the computer wasnt trying to make changes for a zone that came and went so fast it couldnt correct it on its own. if that makes sense to anyone else besides me lol
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 05-26-2012 at 08:12 PM.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
Here's 3 screen shots, each one has white arrows of the areas i was referring too. The last one has the most
What would be causing this? I am totally stumped on this one...
well since i can see that it is affecting how the car is running... meaning the exhaust cam spike to 45 affects the RPM... id say maybe a loose connection, bad ground or wire rubbing thru on something. Hard to say since i dont know how the circuits function off hand lol
The cams parked the entire pull in second pic which is a default for disconnect test solenoids and connections
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
I think I found out what was the cause... I had just cleaned the engine and it may have been water effecting everything. I have viewed logs for past couple weeks and hours after the wash and the log right after the cleaning is the only one showing that... So fingers crossed that when I get home from vacation my car wont be doing that anymore...
that could definitely cause some issues, good luck when you get back... hope everything works out!
So now that the cams are not my issue... any suggestions to get to 16 degrees advanced? What torque settings have I not removed?
i will pitch in for everyone learning here. this is a basic skill everyone has learned but applied to the complicated system of the camshafts which i refuse to make a video of because 1) every car and setup is so different and 2) u should understand the operation of the system and its components as well as understanding cam profiles before you really go playing with this system.
but this is most likely why his tune is not responding.
1) the intake and exhaust cam tables both run two tables....warm and cold.
these tables just like the ignition tables from the video should be the same which forces the ecu to cammand what you demand.
(see int 1 pic)
(see exh 1 pic)
2) since the we like the cam profiles for warm operation better because thats the only table we play on; bacuse we are smart and only play with our cars when they are hot. you can further tell the ecu that you want it to only read that table by going into the factor table and setting the values all to 1 which defaults all cam readings to the warm table.
(see int exh pic 3)
3) last but not least....a major cause of camshaft reposition when undesired is caused by the knock table. This table defines the angle of position the cam will default to when there is kr present. so if ericmir is seeing kr like his logs show then they will run the angle value displayed in the knock table.
to correct this you copy and paste your warm table to the knock table.
(see int pic 4)
(see exh pic 4)
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
as stated these corrections will:
1) demand 1 table per camshaft to be used by the ecu making it easier to demand a angle per cam.
2) will fix relocation of camshaft during kr events which once activated have a delayed deactivation time(sporatic ammount of time- probably an internal calculation depending on severity of kr event)
hope this fixes allot of people problems out there.. ericmir if this doesnt work i would double check the circuits to the solenoids and also cam sensors. i know the cam inspection plate leaks all over 1 of the cam sensors so give it a twice over as well.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
the table adjustments above are only to fix cam repositioning/relocating problem that ericemir is having?
other than you saying that the cam tables need to be the same as the warm table, how would i know if they are relocating or repositioning? is that what the int and exh cam flat lining in his log was?
i went and looked at my last log and the cams only went to 0 when it was at idle, once i started driving they would move again.
also are you saying this is something that i should do too before i go make another log even though im not having the same problem?
2008 Sky RL
I didnt get a chance to review my log this morning but I did glance over at the KR histogram and had like average .2, .4 in the mid range. SO MUCH BETTER OMG HOW? lol I will upload the log when i get internet on my personal laptop.
Thanks so much CBSSOB
When everything is consistent its easier to control the outcomes
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
hmmm I am getting a dip in power now... around 4500 I feel that I loose power and then it pulls back but now my timing is less.... I am at 11 degrees instead of the 12.5 I had before and I am commanding 16...
The timing issue has me stumped, i dont see anything off that would cause it... maybe try removing all the tip in retard and see if it changes at all. The power dip you feel is boost dropping from 22psi to 18.5psi, should be able to correct that with the wastegate table
tip in retard at the ranges he speaks of are only -2* therefore they are not apart of the problem. plus tip in is only effective at activation of wot from a mid to low range load.
a section might be causing some issues could be iat modifier table where if for some reason the ecu sees 170* in the intake it will retard -4* well shoo if he commands 16 and the ecu takes out -4 for the iat correction then thats darn close to 11 which could be the cause if it jumps to a higher temp which could take out a maximum of -6*.
as for the rest of the ignition tables........
afr correction is not affecting anything unless its over 1 lambda.
and ect correction is only removing -1* at 60%+ loads when coolant temp is 225* or higher
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
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