Needing Help w/ Massive KR Issue.

[Rynoman2k3]

The car runs great. Doesn't fall on its face or anything. But ever since i had a fueling issue last fall it seems to jump to 14* kr with anymore than 2lbs of boost. and any more than 15% throttle.

My fueling issue i speak of is my injectors were going static at 20ish IPW. They are now better due to me replacing my fuel pump. But anytime i go partial or full WOT it spikes upto 14* kr and slowly goes down. Never stumbling on its self.

I'm running a 3.4 pulley and my meth isn't running right now. Mainly due to a hole in my windshield wiper tank that I need to fix and the car really isn't dialed in for it yet anyways.

I forgot to mention a friend of mine told me to look at the Knock Retard Decay table but he said the table changed since the last time he looked at it (before beta) and wasn't real sure what to adjust.

I am including my Scan and Current Tune hoping someone has some insight. WOT was at 17ish mins.

Thanks,

Rynoman2k3

[Rynoman2k3]

On a good note i've been playing with HOT PE under Power Enrichment. It seems that my PE was mostly stock. I took it from starting at 48 to 30 and its down to 27 gradually.

It's taken my kr from 14* to 7* peak at wot. Still super high but it's an improvement.

[matt5112]

Try a larger pulley?

[Rynoman2k3]

I don't have a bigger one. Hell I ran my 3.25 most of the summer without any kr. (Running 3.4 now) Granted I was pig rich but still I've never had any kr issues like this until this winter. It's weird like something happened. All of this seemed to happen after I installed 1.9 rockers. I'll just keep messing with it. I think i'm heading in the right direction now. I just hate pulling timing.

[Nixon]

I don't have a bigger one. Hell I ran my 3.25 most of the summer without any kr. Granted I was pig rich but still I've never had any kr issues like this until this winter. It's weird like something happened. All of this seemed to happen after I installed 1.9 rockers. I'll just keep messing with it. I think i'm heading in the right direction now. I just hate pulling timing.

Try taking the rockers off.

[Rynoman2k3]

That's no fun.

[Wingman520]

when you say you were pig rich with your 3.25 pulley how pig rich were you? did you have the wideband then and able to scan your pe?

most people from other forums say the magic sweet spot for pe on a forced induction vehicle (non intercooled) is around 11.5-11.7 (i'm not sure on meth but since you said it's not functioning at the current time, i'm just going off of what i've read and what other enthusiast tuners have told me... from the scan your barely even at your target AFR in some areas it jounces around and going lean as well... your ltft during pe were spot on... just my advice on it and i was more or less pointing out what i saw (not hating on anything i just think better out loud/type)

best bet is to see what you were running when you didn't have the rockers or smaller pulley... i'd rather tune with the rockers on the bigger pulley you have available and rockers on then go down to the small pulley... usually if you don't tune out the KR when you add something it shows up tenfold on the next size down pulley... my suggestion is to get the AFR more consistent (i'd say around 11.7 but that's just my suggestion since your meth kit is unavailable atm) then pull a couple deg timing back to see if it lowers the KR spikes your getting...

i'm surprised your getting that low of timing advance with massive kr spikes (these engines don't like too much below 13-15 deg timing at the most)... are there any afr adders enabled on your vehicle like add vs tps or add vs rpm? usually people remove those to keep the AFR constant through PE

i saw you go to 10.9 at one point and heck i think that is veryyyy rich. with no meth on that is you usually want to keep the PE AFR constant... i'm assuming (i havn't tuned a meth car yet) that you have to increase afr for compensating on meth? so i'm guessing that's why it's running super rich on the scan i read

**edit** also i almost forgot the PE enable tps hot is basically when you go into pe mode... i enjoy stock but most off the shelf tunes go 30 at all cells which i'm not a fan of since i use almost 45% throttle for uphill climbs and don't want to downshift just yet

**edit (again)** why are you running a 3.25 pulley and not intercooled? your internal combustion heat is probably going crazy inside with so much power and no way to effeiciently cool it down... i'd say run 3.4 and see if the knock is as bad or if it goes away... if not then you need to intercool asap before going to any smaller pulley

[Rynoman2k3]

Here's a quick rundown on my current mods.

I am on the 3.4 I don't have anything larger. These scans are on the 3.4.

The Meth Kit i'm not using until i fix the tank that's leaking. I just don't wanna mess with buying meth and it leaking out all the time.

Here's a screenshot of my HOT PE table. I might add a little more on the lower RPM's.



My Pig Richness I spoke of I was around 10afr (I found this out once i installed a wideband) before rockers. It's a lil bit higher now but i still need to work on that.

As for the afr adders that you speak of... add vs tps and add vs rpm are below as well.





***Edit*** I forgot to add that I have scaled back my timing by 2* in the cells that were really knockin. It seemed to help lower the KR some. I'm sure there is other underlying issues that i am not figuring out or just don't know to look for. I've been talking with GTPSleeper and he's giving me some ideas. He was saying I should start with zeoring out my PE adder tables and then making my base AFR the same for all temps... Then set the PE TPS to 30 or 35 across in all tables.

**EDIT**

I just noticed that I had not 0 ed out my Spark Correction AFR Tables. They are all at 0 now and I also copied my High Octane Spark over to my Low Octane Table. I read you should 0 out the timing modifiers to make it easier to command timing.

I can send more files on request through email or pm.

[Wingman520]

Here's a quick rundown on my current mods.

I am on the 3.4 I don't have anything larger. These scans are on the 3.4.

The Meth Kit i'm not using until i fix the tank that's leaking. I just don't wanna mess with buying meth and it leaking out all the time.

Here's a screenshot of my HOT PE table. I might add a little more on the lower RPM's.



My Pig Richness I spoke of I was around 10afr (I found this out once i installed a wideband) before rockers. It's a lil bit higher now but i still need to work on that.

As for the afr adders that you speak of... add vs tps and add vs rpm are below as well.





***Edit*** I forgot to add that I have scaled back my timing by 2* in the cells that were really knockin. It seemed to help lower the KR some. I'm sure there is other underlying issues that i am not figuring out or just don't know to look for. I've been talking with GTPSleeper and he's giving me some ideas. He was saying I should start with zeoring out my PE adder tables and then making my base AFR the same for all temps... Then set the PE TPS to 30 or 35 across in all tables.

**EDIT**

I just noticed that I had not 0 ed out my Spark Correction AFR Tables. They are all at 0 now and I also copied my High Octane Spark over to my Low Octane Table. I read you should 0 out the timing modifiers to make it easier to command timing.

I can send more files on request through email or pm.

if you want pm me or email anytime... basics i've used on tuning is remove all editors that mess with timing and afr...

in the PE tab it'd be add vs tps and add vs rpm

in the spark table you need to zero out the afr correction in the spark tables

also for the low octane table when you copy paste subtract a few degress of timing (i usually do 2 deg) so it has some timing to pull back in case you get KR under some random condition

like you were talking with gtpsleeper, the base afr vs ect should consistant through the entire power band... hit me up in pm and we can chat from there via email or phone... these cars are easy to tune once you know what to do properly

[Rynoman2k3]

I now have the base vs ect all set at 11.6 through the entire table. It made a huge diff on my drive today. My car had power again. I even had some 0kr runs but then some spiked to 9 and went down to 0. It's weird.

I've also been talking to Reptile a good friend of mine that's pretty good on this platform as well. But any help is greatly appreciated. I will pm you my email addy and some files.

[gectek]

You get any direction with this? Seems like there are some things you should look at that are not addressed.

[Rynoman2k3]

You get any direction with this? Seems like there are some things you should look at that are not addressed.

What do you have in mind?

I've been working with Wingman520. I've been doing the RussK open loop tuning method. The AFR is pretty decent until the higher RPM's then it goes lean. Brian (Wingman520) thinks my injectors are tired or one is clogged. I've got a newer Higher Output Fuel Pump and Filter. I've seafoamed, ect.

Quick Scan from tonight and My Recent Tune file to follow.

[Rynoman2k3]

Forgot to load the scan from the other night but I got one from today. I've been talking with a friend and he wonders if my Injectors are taking a poop. He's gonna send me a set of 42.5# ers to try out.

Scan and Tune Attached.

[gectek]

I would put a better valve spring in it while you are at it.

Ill come up with a laundry list for yah.

[Rynoman2k3]

Springs aren't even a year old man. Plus i'm kinda low on the dough while the wife is working part time. Talked to my friend about the injectors and he basically just said he'll ship em to me and we'll work something out. He doesn't need them anymore. I looked over my mounts yesterday for giggles. It seems that both of my LCA's are poop. The drivers one is pretty bad. I'll have to get that replaced as soon as I can.

[gectek]

You are pushing enough boost to warrant better springs.

You need to fix those dips in the maf. Those are never good. And your timing table is about the same with those huge transistions.

The next thing to do is get tiny tuner and delete the burst knock. How high is your map reading at wot? I see looks like maybe 170 kpa which is roughly 24lb? Thats alot of boost unless your map is not accurate. I would def look at your open loop afr table and clean that up also.

Looks like your transitional spark area and burst knock may be causing your problems, but also I think tiny tuner can help you change your pe settings that HPT does not support.

Check over those open loop adder tables and make sure they are where they are supposed to be in HPT.

[Rynoman2k3]

Ok, I just can't afford to do other springs right now.

I'm still learning this tuner so i'm not quite sure what you mean by delete the burst knock.

I still have some work to do on my open loop maf tuning it appears.

I'll have to get back to you on the map. Ya it says 171 which translates to 24? That woudln't surprise me if it was on the fritz. I'm not sure if it's accurate or not. This winter my Drivers Info center was registering boost when there clearly was none and I wasn't in boost.

[gectek]

Maybe you need a new map? That is alot of boost for a small maggie. Key on it should register around 100 kpa or so, whatever atmospheric is at that time. the norm is from 99-102 kpa. You using the stock map sensor?

Tiny Tuner is another app for you to look into. Check out clubgp for more info. It will help you with the areas that HP tuners does not have support for yet.

[Wingman520]

now that u guys mention it, the map it could be just that... So if stock is about 7-10 psi for the supercharger then that's at a max 70 kpa and the 170, as you said gectek, is 24-25 psi so how would he be running 10 more lbs of boost from dropping 0.4 from the stock 3.8 pulley on a ported gen 3? isn't the normal drop 0.1 tenth equate to about 2 lbs of a boost increase?

also how would you be able to use Tiny Tuner? i thought it was only able to read .bin files not .hpt so how would it convert to be able to read these files?

[gectek]

You find your .bin file OS by...searching really. ClubGP has some and DHP has quite a few. Then you modify the file with Tiny Tuner in only the places HPT misses. Then you can load that file with HPT. As HPT no longer reads files as .bins that sucks, but it can flash them. So its helpful. You have 2 tuning software programs to help you. The drawback is, since it does not read in a .bin, if you need to modify settings not supported by HPT then you have to go back and make changed to the tiny tuner bin and then reflash. Remember, any changes you made to your file in the car with HPT will not be reflected in the tiny tuner bin you have though.