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Thread: Sell a known safe power inverter so I can power my laptop on long trips

  1. #1
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    Sell a known safe power inverter so I can power my laptop on long trips

    I'm tired of having a bunch of optima's and an inverter rolling around in the back seat.

    I'm too paranoid about burning up my hpvi to try any of my inverters using a vehicle ground.
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  2. #2
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    Why not just invest in a laptop that doesn't need a power inverter. Something that works for 6hrs+ between charges (netbook pc)? Problem solved.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by larboc1 View Post

    I'm too paranoid about burning up my hpvi to try any of my inverters using a vehicle ground.
    that is not paranoia it is street smarts lol

    I fried 2 interfaces , one on an invertor and a 2nd on a 12v/120v power supply cord by Targus ($160) that was recommended on here after I got paranoid from the invertor incident , when I got my 3rd interface there was a note stating laptop battery only when plugged into interface- no external power sources whatsoever.

    I bought an ASUS laptop that gives me 3-4 hr battery life and if it gets low I unplug my interface and charge up with my Targus though its not often I need to.

    2.5 years with no interface issues
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  4. #4
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    What is the input voltage of your computer. Some computers dont need power inverters. I have an older thinkpad, and you can buy a cigarette lighter adapter for it that doesnt use an AC converter in it. I rarely use it after reading how many have fried thier interface, but at least I feel safer that way since its DC to DC. You can get a used thinkpad for like $50 and have a dedicated car computer. Cigarette lighter adapters are $10 for them, and you dont have to worry about current switching & bridge rectifiers frying your interface. Just an idea.
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  5. #5
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    Realistically, you shouldn't need to be charging the battery at all. If it holds a decent enough charge (1 hour normal web browsing usage), that should be plenty to datalog with. First things first, disable any background applications like antivirus or the likes, disable wifi and bluetooth (if equipped), and make sure your power settings are ideal (don't suspend on lid close, screen off in 5 min, no sleep timer). You really don't need to be watching the screen while driving, so the longer the screen is off, the more battery life you will have. Reducing screen brightness also helps.

    If you are dedicated to this or tune a lot, having a proper setup would be ideal. A second battery would help, especially if you can't get to a plug in an hour or two. For tuning, I and a couple of others like the Dell D620 and D630 laptops. They are powerful enough to run any application needed for tuning, will take the abuse, still have a serial port, and allow for two batteries (1 normal/extended and 1 bay battery). This setup gives plenty of time and with charging done overnight, nothing is slowing us down. The D620 and D630s can be had for next to nothing used off of ebay.

    An investment in a cheap and small SSD will also help tremendously with battery life.

  6. #6
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    Sounds like your battery is on its way.... you can try hitting F10 when windows is booting, then run the "Battery Calibratrion" function to see if your battery needed a reset. If it still is not holding a good charge, then just get a new battery for it
    I like what rob has to say there too, you have "me" looking at e-bay now...lol
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  7. #7
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    I'm not asking how to buy a newer laptop. I'm asking for a way to run my laptop from the truck.
    I run the scanner on long trips so that I can add extra EGR and lean out the AFR to get lean cruise. Two things that HPT cannot do.
    By long trips I mean 18 hours straight. The added egr and lean cruise get's me repeatable +2mpg. going from 15 to 17-18mpg is pretty big on a 1000 mile trip.

    Really wishing I'd bought efi live.
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by larboc1 View Post
    Really wishing I'd bought efi live.
    Seriously? Explain THAT as a solution please?

    There is no know SAFE power inverter out there that HP Tuners will endorse. In the packaging sent with HP Tuners MPVI device it clearly states "laptop battery power ONLY!" YES like neanderthals without a clue (or solution) in past we used power inverters ALL the time. Everything from cheap $20 non-fused units to $250+ trucker rig units. All are BAD MOJO when used at same time MPVI unit is connected to car/laptop. With a <$150 solution (netbook!) available you would have to be a stupid MF'er to risk zapping your HP Tuners MPVI unit innoperable because your brain can't comprehend warning labels.

    So...

    Advice: Learn to read/follow direction provided to you by the manufacturer. Now think outside the box. (DEMO: http://www.hptuners.com/help/demos/s...onelogging.swf) Why not connect using the MPVI Pro Data Logging mode which doesnt require a laptop being connected simultaniously at all. Upload your runs to your fully charged laptop which IS connected to a power inverter temporarily between logging. Unplug from power inverter to load and manipulate data on your laptop. Update changes to PCM. Erase the MPVI Pro Data Logging function of previous runs and start over. Only use the laptop when necessary and NEVER connected to car/laptop in conjuction with power inverter. Problem solved!
    Last edited by Cantalope Kid; 01-21-2012 at 01:37 PM.
    Janky Monkey Tuning

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid View Post
    Seriously? Explain THAT as a solution please?

    There is no know SAFE power inverter out there that HP Tuners will endorse. In the packaging sent with HP Tuners MPVI device it clearly states "laptop battery power ONLY!" YES like neanderthals without a clue (or solution) in past we used power inverters ALL the time. Everything from cheap $20 non-fused units to $250+ trucker rig units. All are BAD MOJO when used at same time MPVI unit is connected to car/laptop. With a <$150 solution (netbook!) available you would have to be a stupid MF'er to risk zapping your HP Tuners MPVI unit innoperable because your brain can't comprehend warning labels.

    So...

    Advice: Learn to read/follow direction provided to you by the manufacturer. Now think outside the box. (DEMO: http://www.hptuners.com/help/demos/s...onelogging.swf) Why not connect using the MPVI Pro Data Logging mode which doesnt require a laptop being connected simultaniously at all. Upload your runs to your fully charged laptop which IS connected to a power inverter temporarily between logging. Unplug from power inverter to load and manipulate data on your laptop. Update changes to PCM. Erase the MPVI Pro Data Logging function of previous runs and start over. Only use the laptop when necessary and NEVER connected to car/laptop in conjuction with power inverter. Problem solved!
    I'm not trying to log data for 18 hours. I want lean cruise and extra EGR. The only way to get that with HPT is with the scanner running on the laptop. EFILive allows you to enable lean cruise, I don't know about accessing the EGR tables but I'm assuming that it would at least be possible through some binary work.
    If I had EFIlive I would be able to program the ECU for LC and EGR and not even have to run a laptop, I could actually modify the ECU the way I want it!
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  10. #10
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    I'm just curious if you still got cats on this truck your using lean cruise on?
    My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers. For transmission its a 4l65e built with the monster in a box mega ss kit. All in a 92 chevy ext cab 4x4 pickup with a 98 cab now installed with a third door! running only e85

  11. #11
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    Why not rape your pe table to run lean cruise. not going to help with egr flow but you could run lean without a laptop
    My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers. For transmission its a 4l65e built with the monster in a box mega ss kit. All in a 92 chevy ext cab 4x4 pickup with a 98 cab now installed with a third door! running only e85

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn2beatu View Post
    What is the input voltage of your computer. Some computers dont need power inverters. I have an older thinkpad, and you can buy a cigarette lighter adapter for it that doesnt use an AC converter in it. I rarely use it after reading how many have fried thier interface, but at least I feel safer that way since its DC to DC. You can get a used thinkpad for like $50 and have a dedicated car computer. Cigarette lighter adapters are $10 for them, and you dont have to worry about current switching & bridge rectifiers frying your interface. Just an idea.
    I'd thought about that and would like to try it. I guess I'm still a little leery because I don't fully understand how the damage is caused with the power inverter. Do inverters just call it ac without bonding a leg to ground?
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyochimneysweep View Post
    I'm just curious if you still got cats on this truck your using lean cruise on?
    Still have stock cat setup but they shut off completely at 17:1 or so

    I'd looked at adding a coolant temp override switch to do it, but hadn't thought about using the PE table. That sounds interesting as long as I still get power enrichment when I need it.
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by larboc1 View Post
    Still have stock cat setup but they shut off completely at 17:1 or so

    I'd looked at adding a coolant temp override switch to do it, but hadn't thought about using the PE table. That sounds interesting as long as I still get power enrichment when I need it.
    What do you mean your cats shut off at 17:1 or so?

    I think you're going to end up having you're lean tune results at cruise over ridden by cat over temp settings or worse your going to turn that feature off and melt the cats shut.
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  15. #15
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    Thats what i was thinking


    Quote Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid View Post
    What do you mean your cats shut off at 17:1 or so?

    I think you're going to end up having you're lean tune results at cruise over ridden by cat over temp settings or worse your going to turn that feature off and melt the cats shut.
    My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers. For transmission its a 4l65e built with the monster in a box mega ss kit. All in a 92 chevy ext cab 4x4 pickup with a 98 cab now installed with a third door! running only e85

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid View Post
    What do you mean your cats shut off at 17:1 or so?

    I think you're going to end up having you're lean tune results at cruise over ridden by cat over temp settings or worse your going to turn that feature off and melt the cats shut.
    I've got CAT protection shut off.

    A three way catalyst requires CO, UBHC's, and NOx to operate. Without the needed CO or HC's to burn, the catalyst can't maintain the temperature it needs to convert NOx, which is why lean burn PISI engines typically can't meet emissions in the US.
    A three way cat needs something to burn to keep it's temp up to work.
    Lean cruising the engine burns up more of the CO and UBHC's in the engine instead of the catalyst.
    Catalyst shuts down and goes ice cold.

    I should add that if you are going so lean as to misfire the engine and send raw gas and O2 down the manifolds along with the excess O2 already present in the exhaust from the lean burn, then the cat will turn back on and depending on the frequency of the misfires, overheat.
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  17. #17
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    I have been using the same inverter since before it was even recommended not to use one. I have'nt had any issues for over 6 years now, including with a laptop that lasts 8 hours on a single charge.

    With that said, you can test what is coming out of an inverter. 60 hertz and 110 VAC is just that, regardless of where it comes from.

    The inverter must be able to reliably produce the same output despite possible variations in your vehicle's electrical system. A faulty voltage regulator on your alternator could pose a problem. Not to mention voltage drops due to your A/C cycling, cooling fans, lights, or even voltage variations due to your blinkers.

    I have run satellite communications systems extensively off of power inverters. Which incidentally have much more sensitive electronics. Just ensure you have a good ground. A good multimeter will have frequency, ground resistance, and display an accurate voltage for your needs. Unless of course you have access to an O scope.

    I can definitely understand why it is not recommended, but there is a systematic approach you can take to mitigate your risks.
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  18. #18
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    I think what can happen is that if you have a laptop power supply that bonds the dc ground to the neutral side of the plug, and then you use an inverter that dose the same but doesn't care which pin is ground then you run the risk of getting a 120vac discrepancy between grounds and poof.
    Is that accurate?
    2001 2500 silverado 4x4 ex. cab sb lq4 western 7.5' cable plow

  19. #19
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    I've punched out a serial port on the old style interface
    when an inverter went into undervoltage cutout, on a
    vehicle with a weak charging system.

    My recommendation is to find an "isolation transformer"
    which will break the laptop power-side ground loop. Or
    drag along a 12V battery and power your inverter from
    that, unconnected to the chassis.

    "Just buy another laptop" - yeah. I just bought one, less
    than a year ago, and it's already down to under an hour
    of life. Not everybody needs to keep buying new gear
    to fix a dumb problem.

    I don't think anybody knows all the failure modes, to
    where anybody can guarantee a "no worries" inverter
    even if they tested them until stuff quit blowing up.

    You could look for an inverter advertising "galvanic
    isolation". But cheap ones don't tell you much about
    anything.