My 08 Corvette has a Yank SS3200 converter. At launch (100% WOT) I'm only turning 1900 rpm. It's not until 11 mph out before I reach 3200 rpm. Anybody with a scan of what their converter does even another brand or stall rpm. Was sure hopeing for a better 60' than what I'm getting.
you need brake and accel at the same time to get to stall speed before launch. If your just stomping on the gas at launch without holding the brake your not going to stall the converter
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.For transmission its a 4l65e built with the monster in a box mega ss kit.
All in a 92 chevy ext cab 4x4 pickup with a 98 cab now installed with a third door!
running only e85
Yes, I always hold the brake and stall up. Only to about 1200 rpm. Much more and the car is pulling fairly hard and tends to make the car pull forward far enough to occasionally redlight. This converter is pretty tight.
doesn't sound like its stalling out right. or maybe a trans brake is needed
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
Here'a a break torque scan I ran with drag radials on concrete and holding the brake hard. This is as high as I could get my rpm without starting to push the car forward. Reflects about at the same rpm as my logs at launch at the track.
There are three stalls speeds with toprque converter, but only one is the proper (true) stall which they are rated by.
Brake Stall - This is accomplished by holding the brake as hard as possible and applying the throttle, the rpm before a burnout is started is the Brake Stall rpm. Factors that affect the observed rpm stall are condition of engine, horsepower, tire traction and brake pad/rotor condition. This is the lowest rpm that will be observed and commonly confused with true stall speed.
Flash Stall - This is accomplished with by taking off from a stop with no tire spin at at all and 100% throttle. The rpm the engine reaches prior to climbing up the tachometer is referred to as the Flash Stall and it is the typical stall rpm most drivers will experience. Factors that affect this stall rating are gearing (trans and final), horsepower and weight.
True Stall - This can only be accomplished with a transbrake or a torque converter dyno. This effectively locks the input shaft portion of the trans/converter while 100% throttle is applied. The engine will only be able to go up to the true stall speed of the converter before the fluid inside the converter begins to limit the torque from the engine. This is a True Stall. The amount of horsepower applied greatly changes the stall speed observed during this (more HP = higher stall). Most companies guess at this, as very few companies have the ability to dyno test torque converters.
Given that, the rpm difference from brake stall to flash stall to true stall can be anywhere from 500rpm to as much as 2000rpm. Vehicle weight, gearing, traction, and horsepower all affect the observed converter characteristics.
*Shift Extension - This varies from the above, as it is the rpm the engine drops to after a shift. Like above, many thing s affect this as well.
Having said that, the 6L80E in your Corvette has a 4.0X first gear, which reduces the observed stall speeds, compared to a 4L60E's 3.06 first gear. Another thing to look for is traction control via spark limiting or ETC limiting. Best advice would be to talk to Yank and see what they say.
Not sure the first gear ratio has much if anything to do with stall rpm. The following log was using the same technique but done in 2nd gear paddle. The stall rpm is virtually the same as first gear. And from 1st to 2nd is more difference in gearing than my 4.02 first gear vs. a 3.06. TC is off so I'm getting full timing advance in both logs. Again both logs show about the same stall rpm whether break stalliing or WOT launching with full traction at the track. I really doubt a transbrake would allow for much more rpm. Seems to me this Yank Converter SS3200 is really not a 3200.Originally Posted by 12secSS
But from my original post, would just like to see how mine compares to others of a given or same stall rpm.
my 1800 stall converter with my engine will brake stall at 2000 and taking off it hits 1800 before taking off
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
Your 1800 stall is running just about like my Yank SS3200.
Looks like it's time to give Yank a call!
I would say it is time to call. Let us know what they say. I would think 3200 stall should put you up in the high 2000 rpms range for launching if not higher
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
Here's a portion of a spread sheet of what my launch looks like with this Yank. Second column is rpm, third throttle position, fourth commanded AFR, fifth mph and advance the last. Not even 2000 rpm at WOT! You can see where I'm 11 mph before I reach 3200 rpm.
Talked to Dave at Yank. He was not surprised that I gained virtually nothing from my SS3200 converter. He said this converter is mainly for guys that want to install cams to allow for faster idle. Wish I had know that I would have gotten the 3600. Seems to me the 3200 rating for this converter is misleading.
Sounds pretty misleading to me also. They going to help you out with the cost of a real 3200 stall?
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
They will fix the converter for free. No help with labor or rent car while mine is down for 2-3 weeks maybe more. He suggested I buy his 3600 and then sell mine to an individual so my car won't be down so long.
yeah that sucks. I built my 4l65e and ordered the wrong converter. they exchanged it but had to wait for it to be shipped. I brought the correct one then shipped the wrong one back. and got a refund.
My setup is a 356ci with a 260/268 (212/218 at .050 lift) duration cam with aluminium corvette heads and flat top pistons running 11.3 comp. ratio. with tuned port injection and vortec crank pick up and dizzy running a 411 pcm and 60lb bosch injectors, 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
Mine is used so Yank won't take it back even if something is wrong with it. They will only fix it.
What did you do to get that converter to do 1.5's?
YKENY
Do you have the stall torque management parameters set higher than the desired stall RPM in the tune? If not, it will kill power above the factory stall until you move.
Weird...just looked at your logs. I get a higher brake stall than that on my stock converter after tuning (2007 TBSS). Of course, I'm not pushing through the brakes when I brake stall, like yours does. Maybe it is the converter you have?
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