Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Knock Retard

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29

    Knock Retard

    I'm getting spotty KR under light load, and the car bucks a little. It's all mid range in the chart, and I don't want to just pull timing from the table seeing as it's only a few cells that show it. Not sure what's going on. I do have long tubes, and an MS3 cam, so maybe false KR?

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict WS6FirebirdTA00's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Concord, NC
    Posts
    8,093
    Tune?
    Sulski Performance Tuning
    2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
    2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB

  3. #3
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    Sorry, I thought I attached the config. I'll add that when I get home.

  4. #4
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    Here's the tune.
    It seems to stumble at about 20% throttle on a pretty regular basis.

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    400
    I have very similar problems , when and if you figure it out let me know!!

    It would be very helpful if someone, would make a how to to tuning spark? Or a program to build a new spark table based on cam and engine displacement.


    I have a feeling that we need to change more then just the spark high and low tables. There are also idle tables, and modifieres that change things verses temp etc..

    If I couldd just figure-out a safe way to zero them or set them a at a certain value. Then build a safe table like say 15 degrees across the board? Then if there is still spark knock cut the burst knock tables down till there isn't, then gradually increase timing to knock happens then set it back a few degrees?? I don't have a clue, without help, but something along these lines should maybe work??

    I am begining to think I have false knock? I have taken out more then 18 degrees in spots and still get knock?

    Will I damage anything by zeroing all tables, except idle and main spark high octane then setting them to 15 across the whole table?

    Here is my thread http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35157

  6. #6
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    A lot of threads I have read say to just pull that much timing from the effected cell. I would think that would defeat the purpose, because you want to keep that timing.
    Mines going to the dyno tomorrow, so they'll hammer out that timing issue while it's there.

  7. #7
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by kid View Post
    A lot of threads I have read say to just pull that much timing from the effected cell. I would think that would defeat the purpose, because you want to keep that timing.
    Mines going to the dyno tomorrow, so they'll hammer out that timing issue while it's there.
    OK sweet let me know how it goes and if it was false knock or real knock, It's not just a couple of effected cells for me.. more like 20!!

  8. #8
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    Apparently it was false knock. As the exhaust heated up, it started contacting the body on acceleration. The sensors read this as knock, and went a full -10 degrees to compensate.

  9. #9
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by kid View Post
    Apparently it was false knock. As the exhaust heated up, it started contacting the body on acceleration. The sensors read this as knock, and went a full -10 degrees to compensate.
    so what did they do to fix it, and how exactly did they determine that was the cause? ,

  10. #10
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    It was just a matter of adjusting the exhaust so it wouldn't touch anywhere. The vibration from the body contact would reverb all the way back to the motor and get picked up by the sensors as knock. No touch...no knock. I also had a small leak at one of my O2 bungs. It was a bad weld from the factory. It was pulling in some air and making the car run too rich intermittenly.

  11. #11
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by kid View Post
    It was just a matter of adjusting the exhaust so it wouldn't touch anywhere. The vibration from the body contact would reverb all the way back to the motor and get picked up by the sensors as knock. No touch...no knock. I also had a small leak at one of my O2 bungs. It was a bad weld from the factory. It was pulling in some air and making the car run too rich intermittenly.


    OK thanks. How did they find the O2 leak? was there water dripping from it?

  12. #12
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    29
    You could see small amounts of carbon coming out of the crack.

  13. #13
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by kid View Post
    You could see small amounts of carbon coming out of the crack.
    OK thanks