LNF TUNERS: Learn, share and make hp HERE!

[Mr. 2008 SS]

First, you are right shair the whole community will learn!!

1. This above post is new to me Low End TQ is key to moving any car or in
my case the 2008 TBSS" turbo very soon small 60's or 70's w/E-85 tune".
2. All of this tuning is like overclocking a computer. It took me 1-2 years to do that !! Now if my gaming computer gives me a bad post I know what the numbers mean.
3. My E-67 pcm crashed but, I just learned to flash it the correct way Proof I can drive my 2008 TBSS again
4. Man the E-85 tune is hot Members are blowing the forum up WoW
5.The data logging has helped me the most so far. So from my own data logging I am starting to learning what many member are talking about on this posting.

Thanks,
Mr. 2008 SS

[rian_human]

Here are my cam tables I use. Nothing fancy but they work very well overall. Gas mileage is the same or slightly better than stock at cruise. Car is markedly smoother than stock. Acceleration is similar to stock but smoother. I still have the fastest 60-100 times on the stock high load cam angles which is why those areas are stock.

I want to say thank you again. I used these to create my own cam tables and it feels like a new car. It is more responsive and more powerful at low rpm and it is very very smooth.

[silverbullet08]

So the news is vince is running full E on the cobalts now. Anyone one have any insight on how he is doing this? im going to go fill my car with E in about 15mins and figure this thing out. Im starting with the 330 injector tables, 30%+ injector constant and upped fuel pressure. Il see how far i can get with some altering. I think il try about 18 psi and get everything right then try to just raise boost till i run into a problem.

[Leafy]

you could actually make a histogram that would do this for you. lets see. yes the value in the equation would be, [current injector constant]*[SENS.114]. Then you'd just log that into one cell and paste special add to the injector constant and that should work (unless your injector constant is more than one cell, then you would recreate the table). If I was to do this I would get the car tuned perfectly with normal gas and then put in a tank of e85 and run this histogram.

Thats how you do e.

[silverbullet08]

Thats how you do e.

Hmm i must be behind lol. SO histos kill me they never work. I have mine set up like this right now in the filter [0.03266]*[SENS.114] whats wrong with that? and would you use LTFT as the sensor? then LTFT vs Injector on the row and axis? im shooting for it here im just lost lol

[Leafy]

No just plot that pid in a histo with nothing on either column. For some reason i cant get it to give me just one cell with nothing associated to it so for sake of ease Just put engine coolant temp in the x axis with 200 as the only value and nothing in the Y column. It should do everything. Unless someone knows of a better way.

[Iam Broke]

Still fighting overboost in the midrange. 24 psi limit, spikes 26, droops to 21 recovers to 24psi. Read up more on PID controls since I haven't delt with them in 20 years, noticed the stock non GMPP PID's are more tame than the GMPP ones. Reduced Proportional & Integral gains to see if it helps some. Too much prop gain = overshoot & oscillation.

They called it Proportional Band, Reset & Repeats per Minute way back when in pneumatic instrumentation. Been a loooong time since I tuned loops.

[ttypecamaro]

With stock DALs, 265kPa limits, and the MALT jacked up to 100% above 4000rpm, I get a flat 225-230kPa MAP during a WOT pull. I increased the 100% column of the DAL to only 230 above 3000rpm and that is enough to max out the turbo. It holds 24psi untill 6000rpm and the wastegate to 100% above 5000rpm (240kPa at 6900rpm). My cars are both stock other than modifying the airbox and replacing the airfilter with a K&N though.

[Iam Broke]

Ya, to get & hold a steady 24 psi fully bolted is a bit more of a challenge. Worked on it some more last night but too rainy to try it today. If I get it to spike 25 and droop to 23 and recover I'll be happy. I can only hold 18.5 psi at 6500 with everything maxed out 100%.

When you open up the exhaust it gets harder to hold the boost as it increases the airflow.

The Charge (psi) in the beginning of the pull is the area I'm working on in the chart below. This is the boost pressure from the lower CP before the throttle body. Once you exceed 22.5 psi you can't log it in from manifold anymore. It's a choppy signal but better than nothing. Running 50% ethanol and no trouble with FP holding to setpoint. 60% E I still had some droop at tip in.

[Iam Broke]

Update... Reducing the Prop Gain on the boost controller had some small effect on the overboost spike, but I think I'll move on to the limits in the midrange on the Duty Cycle Correction table. Hoping for better results. I pulled up a layer tune log from last fall and it pulled a steady 24 psi through the midrange. No huge spike or droop. Gotta get this straightened out.

[stratosteve]

Got the newest beta and a gms1 tune (not installed). I am trying to decide which direction to go. My current tune is not using the new WG control tables, instead uses the old DAL through the roof method. I am hitting 22 psi and then drops to 17.5 and rises to 19 to 6.1k. My car is stock except for the airbox mod. Is this around where it should be given the lack of mods?

I have thought about loading the gms1 and change the map tables to keep stock sensors. I like this route for future warranty issues. Just curious if anyone has had success with WG control and base 09 OS?

[gmtech16450yz]

Here's a little more on cam timing and Cat Warmup Delete idle smoothing...

Here you go, try these. (You too Tom, you might like these better.)
The cam tables I posted in my learn and share thread are pretty aggressive as far as leaning towards power and away from mpg, as Tom mentioned. They also work better on my particular setup because I'm far from stock. These tables I'm posting here work extremely well for power and mileage, just make sure you're particular freeway cruise rpm is the same as where I have the exhaust timing retard in the tables. Watch your rpm and load at 65-70mph and retard exhaust around there, then smooth out around it. You're gonna get a big spike in the table image, that's ok and actually less than stock if you do it right. (not as steep)

Make ALL cam tables for intake match each other, and same with exhaust tables. That means knock, warmup, etc. Make sure ALL idle tables for the particular cams match each other also.

I'll also include a screen shot of some injector and idle tables. I believe these inj timing numbers work better with the cam timing. If you notice on the stock inj timing tables, there's a pretty big retard around the same spots that cam timing is retarded. (Imagine that!) My theory is they obviously want inj timing to match cam timing, and moving inj timing back up along with cam timing works much better. On idle speeds, raise desired numbers in these tables, but also realize you'll need to massage DAL's in those areas to make sure you're not getting any ign timing dump. (For those that don't know, if you request more DAL than is needed at low rpms or idle it will retard ign timing to try to control idle speeds. This is standard practice on many ECM's. The balance between airflow and ign timing is what controls idle speeds, mess one up and you'll mess the other up also.

You may also want to work on the ECT/Ign timing table, if you're still getting fluctuations in the idle, try raising the timing in the specific cell that the warmup is at as far as load, rpm and coolant temp.

Oh, btw, what you felt might have been the wastgate going back and forth is most likely the throttle plate and ign timing hunting up and down because it can't maintain desired idle speeds without overshooting. Try these things first. I guarantee these LNF's can be made to have a nice, normal cold start with a mild fast idle (which is what you want) and enough ign timing to run smooth and quietly. Thanks again Chris and Bill for giving us that tiny little button to turn Cat Warmup off!

[Iam Broke]

Old subject - boost spikes...

I followed GMTech's example on the boost tables early in this thread with the PID's stock and have it pretty close to 24 psi flat now. I have to cut a bit more between 3500 & 4500 than his & run 95% in 4th, 90% in 5th. Too wet to dial it in the rest of the way but def getting closer than fooling with the PID's.

Also, as posted in another thread the lower CP lo res boost PID charts well WOT >22 psi.


[PID.2338.PSI]-[PID.51.PSI]

or

Boost Sensor Lo Res - Barometric Pressure (SAE)

Called it Charge (psi)

Make sure you add both PID's to the table first. Chris posted that the lo res PID scales to 512 kPa

[acesneights]

For this charge PID u have, does it show up as 1 at idle?

[Iam Broke]

Usually +/- 0 to 0.1 psi at idle and slightly positive at cruise, maybe 2-3 psi. The turbo makes some pressure in the lower CP when the throttle body is mostly closed not letting much flow through.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

my brain expolded just reading all this stuff....if gonna learn this stuff its gonna be after i get dragged on the ground for a few thousand miles haha

will there be like a barney style how to for injectors and boost controls after all this testing? all the big words like "homogenous""transient""proportional gain/max" they totally lost me. i should have taken more english i swear its come back to hurt me.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Here are my cam tables I use. Nothing fancy but they work very well overall. Gas mileage is the same or slightly better than stock at cruise. Car is markedly smoother than stock. Acceleration is similar to stock but smoother. I still have the fastest 60-100 times on the stock high load cam angles which is why those areas are stock.
[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

how many units of change on the chart equals 1* of change in a camshaft?

[Pandion]

how many units of change on the chart equals 1* of change in a camshaft?

^^^ Same question ^^^

[rnjmur]

If you change the cam angle by 1* on the chart it will move the cam angle by 1* in which ever direction you make the change.

[T-Man]

I believe its 10* in the tables for every 1 degree of camshaft change, from what I remember? Could very well be wrong.