Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Does nonWOT timing need to be modified?

  1. #1

    Does nonWOT timing need to be modified?

    • Stock displacment LS2
    • 231/239 .644/.651 115+3 Cam
    • TFS 220cc Heads
    • LT's / 3" Catback
    • TVS1900


    The bypass valve on the TVS1900 is open at all times, so the car is N/A until ~100kpa when the bypass valve closes and boost comes in.

    Is there any reason that my high octane timing table should be modified when NOT at wide open throttle? I'm not sure if the cam will have any effect there or not.
    2009 Crystal Red CTS-V A6
    Hennessey CAI, Hennessey 2.55 Upper


    2005 Phantom Black GTO M6
    All stock other than forged shortblock, braided clutch lines, and bushings. CAR IS FOR SALE For sale, $14,000, 65k miles.


    Having a shop build your car is like having a porn star screw your wife. Pick up a chiltons manual and a wrench and learn something.

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner 5_Liter_Eater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,968
    The OEM spark table was "theoretically" ideal for the stock setup. That cam is a far cry from stock so if you wanted to get every last drop of power and efficiency at all times you should re-tune the spark and fuel tables across the board. Unfortunately the only real way to do this is to put it on a load bearing dyno where you can hold it in a cell and play with timing to see what spark makes the most power in that cell. How much is to be gained by that is hard to tell but I can tell you I don't know of anyone (Greg Banish maybe) who does it this way. You could try setting the cruise control and playing with the timing with VCM controls and watching for an increase or decrease in delivered torque. I donno how well that would work though.

    So the short answer is no, you don't have to re-tune part throttle spark. Now if you had to scale your airflow tables for bigger injectors I would make sure you scale the spark tables too.
    Bill Winters

    Former owner/builder/tuner of the FarmVette
    Out of the LSx tuning game

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner IDRIVEAG8GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Roswell, N.M.
    Posts
    1,956
    In my opinion you should go set the cruise control in a high gear and make it run up a hill. As the car applies more throttle if it bucks any with that cam, increase the timing until it starts detonating, or until all the bucking and surging goes away. You're shooting for smooth power. Once you get that cell right, adjust the rest of the table up with the same amount of timing increase you put in. Just my .02 though, because I did all my street driving tuning without a dyno and it is very nice.
    Gray Ghost- The abomination. 2007 Chevrolet Silverado CCSB. 98mm turbo, nitrous, 428LSX, Rossler 80E with a brake. Finally finished. 23 psi, no numbers, Slow as hell.

    PBM G8- Aluminum 364, twin Precision 67/66 turbos, 6L90 trans swap, CTS-V/Vaporworx fuel system, slowly making progress.

    Dads 2011 CTS-V- Stock bottom end, stock heads, LS9 cam, pullies, ported blower, ported TB, D3 goodies, and lots of nitrous.
    618/618 motor
    906/862 spray

    Caterpillar 50 Forklift- Duramax swap

  4. #4
    Senior Tuner eficalibrator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Detroit
    Posts
    1,023
    Quote Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater View Post
    ...I don't know of anyone (Greg Banish maybe) who does it this way.
    Well, that's how GM does it. Remember that they do the vast majority of spark mapping on an engine dyno before it ever sees a car. If you have a bigger cam with more overlap, you'll have more EGR dilution at part throttle which effectively slows the burn rate. If you want good throttle response and fuel economy in this condition, you will probably need to advance the timing some to compensate.

    In practice, this can be very time consuming if you wanted to hit every cell in the spark map. My real world compromise is usually to spot check a handful of part throttle points and try to optimize them. If you find that they all want another 3-4 degrees of timing, then it's not a big stretch to say that the same adjustment can be made to all the points between them. You just have to remember that at part throttle, you're not after the knock limit but MBT. I see a lot of guys just advancing part throttle timing until they get knock activity and backing off a hair but that can leave you on the other side of the MBT curve that's just as bad as being under-sparked.

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Old Orchard Beach Maine
    Posts
    915
    I spent several years commuting 2 states from home daily and messed around with cruise timing a lot just to reduce boredom lol

    I am sure a dyno is the best way but I opened up my timing histogram and watched the 4 or 5 cells that my car was primarily staying in during my highway commute which was typically 72/73 mph and stedy state , its been a while but I recall the cell it was in highlighted in yellow while the rest of the table was blue , you can also choose cell counts and it will show you which cells you are in the vast majority of the time

    . I was able to add a lot of timing in those cells that were hit while maintaining speed on flat sections , downhill ( decreasing load) and slight inclines , higher inclines it might start getting into higher load cells and or boost and wouldnt take any more timing without getting into knock .

    it is shocking how much less pedal pressure was needed to climb a slight grade with increased timing - the power increase was obvious , one of the most satisfying things I have done with the tuner

    all this gave me an "island" of high timing in my table so I did some smoothing to blend it all in after

    obviously theres some guys that have a heck of a lot more knowledge than I do in this thread lol but thats just my personal exploits into cruise timing and I felt it was rewarding
    PB's 1/4 mi 12.21 117.75 trap ,1/8 mi. 7.779 93.99trap , 1.949 short time (FWD W body)

  6. #6
    Advanced Tuner madvette08's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    427
    If you can get to a Load Bearing Dyno, that would be best way to see if the Spark table needs to be optimized.

    On the Mustang Dyno we have, I use a feature called PRO Test. With this test you can set it to hold a constant RPM, MPH, PAU Force, Power and Acceleration. Using the VCM Controls I can hold Throttle Position constant to maintain that Load. On Gen 4's it quite time consuming and on GEN 3's with the real timing tuning its a less time consuming. And of course this test is great for Tuning the MAF and VE tables.

    If your going to do that on a Dyno make sure you have adequate Airflow for cooling or motor will get nice and toasty .

    Ian
    2008 Corvette A6 - Comp Cams 231/239 617/624 109 ICL 113 LSA, Patariot Extreme Dual Springs .660", Milled .30" Stock LS3 Heads, Mahle -4cc pistons, FTI 3600 Converter, 1 7/8 kooks cat-less 3 inch X-Pipe, air raid intake, ported TB, SLP Loudmouth I. 512hp/464tq

    2011 Ford Taurus SHO - stock with just a Tune