Friend just had his heads milled to raise his LS7 compression from 11 to 11.6. What would be a good start place to adjust his tune to account for the added compression. I took 2 degrees out of the high load cells of the high octane map. Good starting place or should I pull more? Anything else that may need adjusted when raising compression?
At you getting any knock with new comp?
Yah. Pulled 2 degrees out, did one little pull and saw 1-2 degrees of KR. We didn't beat on it too hard because he wanted to heat cycle the valve springs and check stuff. Tonight we will do more. Car is a ragin racing lethal cam (232/250 .660 lift) with WCCH milled heads, kooks 1 7/8", no cats, haltech intake, fast 102 manifold.
Are you seeing burst knock or actual knock? I've found that sometimes, burst knock happens during a WOT pull, and a lot of people mistake it for actual knock.
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DSteck, can you explain how I would tell the difference?
Right now compared to my car which has a bigger cam, this car surges/chugs a lot more at low throttle. Got to play with that and see if I can get it better. No reason it shouldn't drive better then my car.
Also CuriousOriginally Posted by Unreal
2009 Crystal Red CTS-V A6
Hennessey CAI, Hennessey 2.55 Upper
2005 Phantom Black GTO M6
All stock other than forged shortblock, braided clutch lines, and bushings. CAR IS FOR SALE For sale, $14,000, 65k miles.
Having a shop build your car is like having a porn star screw your wife. Pick up a chiltons manual and a wrench and learn something.
Going to play with it more tonight. Here is the current tune to peak at.
I would like to know as well how to differentiate between Knock and Burst Knock, and if you have Burst knock, how do you correct it?
Gray Ghost- The abomination. 2007 Chevrolet Silverado CCSB. 98mm turbo, nitrous, 428LSX, Rossler 80E with a brake. Finally finished. 23 psi, no numbers, Slow as hell.
PBM G8- Aluminum 364, twin Precision 67/66 turbos, 6L90 trans swap, CTS-V/Vaporworx fuel system, slowly making progress.
Dads 2011 CTS-V- Stock bottom end, stock heads, LS9 cam, pullies, ported blower, ported TB, D3 goodies, and lots of nitrous.
618/618 motor
906/862 spray
Caterpillar 50 Forklift- Duramax swap
Car runs great. Didn't get WOT done because the wideband is in my car but part throttle, idle, and everything is great.
Current tune, haven't touched WOT.
Nevermind, for tuning purposes, or if you're like me, just zero out the BKR. All it is is a prediction factor for knock, not true knock and if you zero this table out then the ECM will reference the High and Low Octane tables. Remember boys and girls, it takes the ECM a second to switch from the Idle Spark Advance table to High Octane Spark Advance for those of you who are getting KR if you mash the gas at idle and just can't make it go away.
Gray Ghost- The abomination. 2007 Chevrolet Silverado CCSB. 98mm turbo, nitrous, 428LSX, Rossler 80E with a brake. Finally finished. 23 psi, no numbers, Slow as hell.
PBM G8- Aluminum 364, twin Precision 67/66 turbos, 6L90 trans swap, CTS-V/Vaporworx fuel system, slowly making progress.
Dads 2011 CTS-V- Stock bottom end, stock heads, LS9 cam, pullies, ported blower, ported TB, D3 goodies, and lots of nitrous.
618/618 motor
906/862 spray
Caterpillar 50 Forklift- Duramax swap
You should be able to log the actual PID for burst knock.
Yeah you can, but why? It annoys me because it's learn up/down feature constantly plays with the timing. Hence not have a smooth timing log at WOT. (At least that's what it does to me.)
Gray Ghost- The abomination. 2007 Chevrolet Silverado CCSB. 98mm turbo, nitrous, 428LSX, Rossler 80E with a brake. Finally finished. 23 psi, no numbers, Slow as hell.
PBM G8- Aluminum 364, twin Precision 67/66 turbos, 6L90 trans swap, CTS-V/Vaporworx fuel system, slowly making progress.
Dads 2011 CTS-V- Stock bottom end, stock heads, LS9 cam, pullies, ported blower, ported TB, D3 goodies, and lots of nitrous.
618/618 motor
906/862 spray
Caterpillar 50 Forklift- Duramax swap
Pretty sure burst knock doesn't get applied to any learn pattern.
You can log Total Knock Retard and Knock Retard. If Total Knock Retard has a value, but Knock Retard is zero... then it's burst knock pulling timing.
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http://www.facebook.com/dsx.tuning
Just say no to bull s***.
IF YOU WANT HELP, POST A FILE!
If you're timing table looked as goofy as mine, yes it would. I just went out and tried it with it off, and had a perfect timing log following exactly what my High Octane Table was. Turned it back on and it jumped around between 9 and 13 even though it's supposed to run a flat 15 degrees where the BKR was screwing around at. And it was doing it for no obvious reason despite the fact I'm running 96 Octane.
Gray Ghost- The abomination. 2007 Chevrolet Silverado CCSB. 98mm turbo, nitrous, 428LSX, Rossler 80E with a brake. Finally finished. 23 psi, no numbers, Slow as hell.
PBM G8- Aluminum 364, twin Precision 67/66 turbos, 6L90 trans swap, CTS-V/Vaporworx fuel system, slowly making progress.
Dads 2011 CTS-V- Stock bottom end, stock heads, LS9 cam, pullies, ported blower, ported TB, D3 goodies, and lots of nitrous.
618/618 motor
906/862 spray
Caterpillar 50 Forklift- Duramax swap
That doesn't mean it was learned.If you're timing table looked as goofy as mine, yes it would. I just went out and tried it with it off, and had a perfect timing log following exactly what my High Octane Table was. Turned it back on and it jumped around between 9 and 13 even though it's supposed to run a flat 15 degrees where the BKR was screwing around at. And it was doing it for no obvious reason despite the fact I'm running 96 Octane.
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http://www.facebook.com/dsx.tuning
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What are the Burst Learn tables for then?
Hell if I know, but I never see burst knock stick around. When it shows up during WOT, it shows up as little blips of 0.5ยบ or so, and instantly goes away. Do another pull, and the pattern is totally different. Just zero out burst knock and move on with life.
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Dsteck, my car does that sometimes. Just small blips of .2-.5. Is burst knock something that should be turned off for tuning only or all the time. I've just ignored the .2-.5 KR that happens maybe 1 out of 10 pulls. Normally when the tires are spinning.
I will either cut the burst knock table in half or shift it over one cell, which usually helps to get rid of that crap. Sometimes I just eliminate burst knock completely, though.
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http://www.facebook.com/dsx.tuning
Just say no to bull s***.
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Burst knock learn works to make burst knock retard more aggressive if real knock is still detected during BKR and less agressive if no real knock is detected. It optimises knock control at the extremes when the factory runs the engines on the edge of knock.
BK is probably more applicable for factory tunes/cars than specifically tuned cars/trucks. Though lets face it, if GM went to the effort to put it in there, it does achieve something relevant.
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