Ok I was getting a little tired of trying to determine false knock from real knock on my Redline so I tried something and got interesting results...
In the SI knock sensor replacement info it says this...
Ok so I take a look at my sensors and one is at 90 degrees and the other one is just about vertical. I loosened both of them and turned them about opposite of where they were, not necessarily at 90 degrees. Drove home and guess what, massive amounts of KR, obviously false, and mostly from cyl 1.Installation Procedure
Important: Rotate the pigtail 90 degrees from vertical before securing the fastener.
So here's the homework assignment for anyone that's interested and is also fighting false knock, try rotating your knock sensors and lets see if we can figure this out. My next step is to figure out if the false knock showing on cyl 1 is actually because the front sensor. The computer knows what cylinder is firing when the knock occurs so it might not depend entirely on which sensor picks up the knock. I would assume the front sensor picks up cyls 1&2 and the rear 3&4, but that might not be the case. I figure I'll pull the sensor out and leave it plugged in but insulated so the computer stills sees it's there but it won't pick up anything.
Wouldn't that be cool if the false knock was caused by the sensors being "clocked" wrong. That might also explain why some cars have a ton of false knock and others have none. I've changed a lot of knock sensors and never thought about putting them back in a certain position, although most sensors will only go on one way. The mention in SI must mean they've traced some of the false knock problems to sensor positioning. If we can't get anywhere by trial and error rotating and logging, maybe I'll write a repair order so I can call TAC and see if they'll let me in on any secrets.
BTW, the illustration in SI shows the sensor pigtails facing forward on both sensors.
TIA for any feedback on this! Let's figure it out!